dderolph

Got a '91 Accord with 253K miles. I believe my brake pads and/or brake shoes should be replaced. No grinding noise, no front end vibration indicating rotors are warped or unevenly worn.

If I were to replace pads myself, I'm wondering whether it's OK to do that without having the rotors machined. Of course, if I took it to a shop, they may tell me the rotors should be replaced.

somick

Actualy the manufacturer tells you the minimum thikness for the rotors. I would only go by this. If it does not woble why would you replace it or machine it?

Tell you the truth I have never machined mine. I just replaced pads/shoes.

Why do you want to do your brakes? Are your pads worn?


Sam

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RIP Please post back when you fix it so we all will learn something

mpumas

I'm sure his pads are worn but how much. Need to pull a front wheel and look at the pads. Don't wait until it starts grinding or schreeching. You can examine the rotors/drums when you pull the wheels. Turning the drums/rotors is not always necessary unless they are scored or you notice pulling or pulsing or wheel lockup when applying the brakes.

00accord44

In any case its better to have the rotors machined when you replace pads so the new pads can mate evenly to the surface. The grooves left from the old pads will reduce the effectiveness of the new pads grip. That being said, its not a brake killer if you don't have the rotors smoothed out first, but it helps. Machining shouldn't be too much, about $25 at the place I go to

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jeffcoslacker

Going over both sides with a wire cup brush on a drill breaks the old grooves and glaze on the rotors' surface, and gives a nice slightly abrasive non-directional finish that helps the new pads bed down nice and bite well...I do that whether they were machined or not, unless they come with a non-directional scuff from the factory (new rotors) or the shop (old ones being turned).

Use that cup brush to clean the flange the rotor mounts to, and the area on the rotor where the wheel contacts it...rust scale that gets disturbed by removal can get in between surfaces and cause runout when everything goes back together, making brake pulsations or wheel shimmy...do it right from the beginning and you don't have to worry about it.

If you have alloys wheels, ALWAYS use a torque wrench on the lugnuts...Alloy doesn't spread load evenly like steel wheels will, leads to uneven clamping force and rotor distortions that feel like wavy, overheated rotors...

I don't know what Honda's spec for stud torque is, but 100 ft./lbs. is usually a pretty good guess...

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You made three mistakes. First, you took the job. Second, you came light. A four man crew for me? F**king insulting. But the worst mistake you made...

...empty gun rack.

somick

What kind of tool is it?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RIP Please post back when you fix it so we all will learn something

jeffcoslacker

Just yer basic one of these on a drill...

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You made three mistakes. First, you took the job. Second, you came light. A four man crew for me? F**king insulting. But the worst mistake you made...

...empty gun rack.

somick

Thank you jeff,

Haynes recomends emery cloth which does abslutely nothing. I have been trying to fight glazing for many years with little on rather no success! I hope now I will do a litttle better.

Thanks again,

Sam

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RIP Please post back when you fix it so we all will learn something

mpumas

I use a sanding wheel on a 4 1/2 Mikata grinder. I engage the drive with the caliper raised and let the rotor spin. Then apply the grinder and sweep across tjhe rotor on both sides. Doesn't take much and you need to keep the sanding wheel moving from the center outward on both sides. Turning the rotors each time you replace the pads means you will be replacing the rotors after about 3 pad replacements and because it means disassembling the wheel assembly, you will incurr extra expense and time.