BLU CIVIC

i'm building a H23 for a turbo application and need help with a few things

this is what i already have:
Crower H23 DOHC Non-VTEC CAMSHAFTS
Kit H23 with Springs, TI Retainers and Spring Seats

JE PISTON KIT HONDA H23A1 2.3 NON-VTEC 9.0:1
Piston prices include pistons, wrist pins, rings and lock

DARTON SLEEVES

Crower 4340 Steel Billet Connecting Rods

SKUNK2 70mm BILLET THROTTLE BODY D,B,H,F SERIES ENGINE

RC Fuel Injectors PEAK AND HOLD INJECTORS-LOW RESISTANCE

BTP Custom Machined H22/H23 Intake Manifolds BlackTrax Performance

Skunk2 PRO-SERIES CAM GEARS

and this is what i need:
valves
fuel rail
fuel pressure regulator

i looked at AEM and it said all there stuff was for NA and i'm not sure about Skunk2...everything i seem to find is for a H22

what to get done to the crankshaft and the head?

Will this fit H23 or should i stick with stock?
Fluidampr Viscous Harmonic Damper Honda H22
http://www.pocketrocketsracing.com/flvihadahoh2.html

can anyon else think of what i need...picking the exhaust manifold and turbo will be last on the list

__________________
The name's Adrian

BLU CIVIC

with Darton Sleeves should i still need or get a block guard?

__________________
The name's Adrian

CivicSpoon

Honestly I would stick with the OE crank pulley. My friend had an aftermarket one on his h22a, and he believes it was the cause of his oil pump failing (as well as doing some other damage inside his engine). The only thing I would do with the crank is to get it balanced, along with the rods and pistons together. For the head, I would get a mild P&P/deburring job. Find a good reliable machine shop and tell them exactly what you're going to use the car for (mostly street, mostly drag strip, mostly autox, all of the above). Otherwise they may go too over boards and take off too much material, and you'll end up losing low-mid end power. I would also recommend staying away from block guards, unless you get the darton M.I.D. sleeves that have them built in. The aftermarket block guards are made of different material than the sleeves, so they will expand and contract at different temperatures than the sleeves. This can end up messing up your sleeves, and ovaling them around the block guard (but not everyone runs into this problem). The OE fuel rail should be fine; it's not really necessary to get an aftermarket one. But the AEM stuff will be fine for forced induction, my friend uses their fuel rail on his turbo'd h22a with no problem. And depending on what you need to do, the AEM fuel pressure regulator will work fine. But they can only raise your fuel pressure (like most aftermarket ones), and doesn't allow you to lower the fuel pressure if you need to do that. Not really sure who makes valves for the h23.