echokapp

2000 Impala V6 3.8L VIN K increasing engine shrill or could be an rotating scripping fairly high pitched sound when the engine get up to temp. The sound does not increase nor decrease upon excelleration/decelleration. It will however have a lower pitch at idle. The water pump failed and was replaced, Midas. They also ran the engine without the belt, the noise still existed. AMICO disengaged the power (thrust) convertor and removed the belt, the noise still there. The Dealership thought it might be the power steering pump, but that's ruled out, because the noise is there when the pump is not engaged. The noice does seem to be more located in the upper right-side (passenger) front portion of the engine. Oh, the PCV valve has been replaced twice, the spark plug and wires were replaced several months ago. The engine has 105,000 miles and I've changed the oil like clock work every 4500-5000 miles since it rolled out of the Dealers showroom. Any suggestions?

maxwedge

Welcome to AF. Realistically it is impossible to accurately diagnose noises in this environment. This may be a vacuum leak? causing a shrill whistle, make sure both o rings are sealing the pcv.

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troy1

Don't sound good. Definitely check the PCV to make sure both o-rings are there. Any loss of coolant? With all the belt driven accessories and torque converter unbolted it seems like something is failing inside the engine. Take it to a few shops for some second opinions.

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SpinnerCee

My 2001 has a whine too -- some of it is the noisy PS pump and it's valving to the rack, it's just plain noisy.

Not sure how you were able to run the engine without belts, but there are alot of things that are "noisy" about the 3.8L underhood -- one is the plastic intake maifold -- it just resonates in a funny way because of its design and material. Once warmed up, the whine becomes more like a whistle -- from the driver's seat, it almost sounds like AM radio EMI noise (which BTW, the LS audio amps, radio, and stuff also have noise issues) .

To really isolate the sound, you'll have to use a hose or something like a stethoscope to find the exact location.

If it's running fine and not throwing any CEL codes, I wouldn't spend any more money to diagnose the issue.

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