9c3

1999, 3.8L

I'm trying to replace all the rotors and pads, but the car is having different ideas.

The rear rotors are seized to the hub and I've tried EVERYTHING using the tools I have on hand to get them off and nothing's working. Tried prying, hammering, hammering a prybar, you name it...

Do I need some sort of wheel puller?

Since it's Sunday, nothing is open so I reinstalled the rear wheels and hoped to do the front brakes, but...

I can't get the caliper mounting braket off because the Torx bolts that hold it in place are bigger than the biggest Torx socket in my collection(T-55). Does anyone know what the actual size of these is?

Thanks.

maxwedge

T60, the rotors are rusted stuck to the hub,we use a slide hammer with a 90 degree puller on the end, or a big hammer, hit it sideways first then from the back at 90 degree intervals.

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gw84

my manual refers to washing the brake system thoroughly with brake cleaner before disassembling the system. Perhaps that would loosen it up. I've noticed that brake jobs on these vehicles are never as simple as they should be. A simple pad or rotor job seems to always unveil a seized caliper .

P.S. Congrats Max on your 6000th post

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9c3

Also, is there a special tool for turning the rear caliper piston? Needle nose pliers aren't working like they did when I last changed the pads.

maxwedge

Yes there is, it puts inward pressure on the piston while turning it in. Make sure you are not turning it outward, also. You may get away with a C clamp holding pressure on the piston as you turn it.

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lanerd

For the rear caliper, the tool is a little 7 dollar part. It is also extremly hard to use- Try putting the tool on a ratchet and having someone turn a clamp while you turn the socket/tool. It sped it up about double for me, and once you do the first rear the second one is alot easier

9c3

A bunch of my coworkers build race cars as a hobby and likely have the slide hammer/puller tool, so I'll give that a shot tomorrow.

Hopefully tomorrow will be the only day that I go to work and to the parts store on a mountain bike.

jeffcoslacker

If you use a hammer, you know you hit the area between the studs, not the rotor, right?

They sieze under the "hat" that lays over the hub. Usually a liberal spray with WD40 or PB Blaster around the studs and center hub, wait ten minutes and then whack that hat area with a ball peen hammer and they'll fall right off after a couple of swings....

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You made three mistakes. First, you took the job. Second, you came light. A four man crew for me? F**king insulting. But the worst mistake you made...

...empty gun rack.

tblake

Yes, and i've always had good luck grabbing the rotor with my left hand, and pulling out hard, while with my right, slugging the edge of the rotor (right where the vents would be if it were vented). Then turn it about 90 degrees and try again. Usually about the 3rd or 4th smack with the largest metel hammer breaks them loose. (they are junk anywyas). I've never needed any ype of a puller for rotors, only for drums, and anly once, 1992 chevy cheyanne. First break job since new. had well over 200,000 miles on it.

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2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP
(3.4" Pulley, DHP 1.5 Powertuned PCM, ZZP 2.5" High Flow Downpipe, MMS Ported and Polished Lower Intake Manifold, ZZP Stage 1 Ported Throttle Body, 180° Thermostat, NGK Iridium TR6IX)

1997 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 4x4 350
(soon to come,true dual exhaust, roll-up access tonneau cover, light bar)



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9c3

I tried most of your suggestions, but these were rusted on pretty bad. Plus, I don't have a hoist so I can't get too much power or good angles with a hammer. I ended up putting all the old pads on and driving it to the shop. They said they spent two hours on the car in total and had to torch the rotors and beat them with a sledge. Supposedly they were in pieces on the floor by the time they got them off. Obviously, the idiot who did the last rear rotor job didn't put a dab of anti-seize on them.

slicktree

Wish I would have read this sooner, but I'll post anyway.
I do brake jobs on GM cars quite often, and I came up with a solution to the rear rotor/drum sticking removal process several years ago. Never had it NOT work, and never damaged any components (and I live in the salt belt!).
Set the rear on jackstands. Remove the wheel. Set the parking brake firmly. Spray wd-40 or equiv. on the stud holes & hub area & let soak a few minutes. Re-install 2 lug nuts on opposite studs as close to horizontal as possible. Take your cheap, 3-5# plastic "dead blow" hammer and wack away at the 2 lug nuts you just installed. When you see the hub rotate, your done. Release the parking brake.

If you look at the clearance the drum/rotor has on the wheel studs, you will understand why this works.