|
|
Timing a 1998 Chevy 5.7L K1500shakes77 05-07-2007, 06:29 AM Ok here is the deal. I blew another lower intake manifold gasket ( twice now with 149,000 miles) and thought I would do it myself this time. I am not a pro mechanic by any means but have worked on engines a while now. Got everything cleaned and installed but one mistake I did make was not marking distributor when I pulled it.:banghead: Figured it wouldn't be that hard to set the timing. The truck will not run at all. I rotated engine till tdc compression stroke, dropped distributor in with it pointing at cylinder 1 post on the cap. Set my valves and hoped it would run. Nope. Not even running crappy. I have heard I need a Gm Tech 2 scanner to set the timing on this. Is this correct? If I do, should this engine at least run crappy without using a scanner? I get nothing at all. I have spark, compression, and fuel but apparantly not at the same time. Pretty sure I messed up there on the timing,:grinyes: but I do know 2 guys that work from their home after they get off from the chevy dealer but I won't be able to get ahold of them till Friday. I am just wondering if I might have missed a connector somewhere, and that is why it won't at least run crappy. Or if it will not run at all without some reprogramming? Any thoughts or idea's would be appreciated. MT-2500 05-07-2007, 09:56 AM Ok here is the deal. I blew another lower intake manifold gasket ( twice now with 149,000 miles) and thought I would do it myself this time. I am not a pro mechanic by any means but have worked on engines a while now. Got everything cleaned and installed but one mistake I did make was not marking distributor when I pulled it.:banghead: Figured it wouldn't be that hard to set the timing. The truck will not run at all. I rotated engine till tdc compression stroke, dropped distributor in with it pointing at cylinder 1 post on the cap. Set my valves and hoped it would run. Nope. Not even running crappy. I have heard I need a Gm Tech 2 scanner to set the timing on this. Is this correct? If I do, should this engine at least run crappy without using a scanner? I get nothing at all. I have spark, compression, and fuel but apparantly not at the same time. Pretty sure I messed up there on the timing,:grinyes: but I do know 2 guys that work from their home after they get off from the chevy dealer but I won't be able to get ahold of them till Friday. I am just wondering if I might have missed a connector somewhere, and that is why it won't at least run crappy. Or if it will not run at all without some reprogramming? Any thoughts or idea's would be appreciated. If you set the dist rotor by looking at no 1 from the top of the cap it will be way off. On the flat top caps the plug wire terminals in the cap crossover ever which way in it. Look at the cap from the bottom side and you will see..:grinyes: Here is a link on how to set the dist. http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=51302 That should get it close enough to start and run. On the timing you can not set the timing. It is timed off of the crankshaft sensor. Turning the dist sets the camshaft retard setting which is centering the rotor to fire direct on or at the plug wire terminals. But you will need the GM Tech 2 or a good high end pro engine capable scanner. Get it on no 1 TDC compression and set the dist as outlined in the link. Then after you get it started and running get someone with a good scanner to set the camshaft retard setting. Good luck MT shakes77 05-08-2007, 04:35 AM Yeah you were right. I got it figured out about 10 minutes after posting my message.:) Truck is running good, I just need to finish adjusting the valve backlash. Lots of ticking going on. After that it's off to the oil pump. Thanks for the reply though. shakes77 05-08-2007, 09:03 AM Ok I got the truck running and valves sounding pretty good. I think I missed one on the driver's side because I hear a slight tick. Not real bad but it bugs me. Anyway, when I started truck up I had 2 codes on my OBD readout. 102 ( I think) and 1345. I think 102 was a mass air flow sensor, can't remember exactly but I think it was from not having the 2 sensors in the air cleaner hooked up and the o2 sensor by the exhaust hooked up. I erased the codes but 1345 came up again right away. My Actron book doesn't list this code, so was wondering if anyone knew what it meant. Truck seems to run fine, and sounds good ( except for the slight tick from the valve I missed) but I still have that engine code. Any thoughts or answers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. shakes77 05-08-2007, 09:23 AM Ok after some googling I came up with this. Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation What does this mean exactly? Is the distibutor off or is it fine and just needs a gm tech 2 scan tool hooked up? I am lost as to what to check. Maybe I missed a plug in somewhere? Again thanks in advance. MT-2500 05-08-2007, 09:33 AM 1345 code It is the dist adjustment. It centers the rotor to fire direct or straight on/at plug wire terminal. Re read first post. On the timing you can not set the timing. It is timed off of the crankshaft sensor. Turning the dist sets the camshaft retard setting which is centering the rotor to fire direct on or at the plug wire terminals. But you will need the GM Tech 2 or a good high end pro engine capable scanner. MT wafrederick 05-08-2007, 07:21 PM The spec is 0 degrees if you want to know and look for Cam sensor retard in the data stream on the scan tool 777stickman 05-08-2007, 09:00 PM I'll try to explain this as best I can. The CKP and CMP have to be within certain limits. The crank sensor is located in front of the block to detect crank position. The cam sensor is located in the distributor as it is driven by the cam. So, the code you're getting could mean the the dist is off a tooth or 2 one side or the other. If you put the distributor in exactly as the link "MT" gave you it will be close. Timing lights on these cars are a thing of the past. The high end scanners that can get into the "cam retard" or "cam offset" mode puts the VCM into "base timing" mode. In this mode the timing needs to be set at 0 +/- 2 degs. If the dist is in correctly it only takes a small adjustment to get it there. And when your done the plug wires should be coming out of the dist at 90 degs to the front of the motor. Hope this helps.............Steve vBulletin®, Copyright ©2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2009
|