Nissan Skyline GTR R34 2003 ... pre season test version

So ... since I'm not sure what the future will bring for the 550 Spyder in 1/43 I started a while ago (still waiting on news from Feeling 43 about theirs), I decided to finish this model.
I started the car about 2 years ago. I first bought the kit to go as a body onto a mini-RC chassis which I made myself, but I decided not to as the kit is too nice.

The version I will make will be the pre-season test version. Why? Well, because it gives the opportunity to add some extra nice details such as different aerodynamic features in the front, an airspeed sensor, extra telemetry antenna, ...

I always start a 1/24 kit with the wheels. For me this is like a book. Start with the last page and you'll know if it's a good book. If the wheels look nice to me, I have a good idea of how the finished project will look. The wheels underwent some standard procedures ... balance weight, air valves, ... but also the central wheelhub got a thinner wall and the tires decals were put aside and the logo's were sprayed. After that, I scratched away some paint in the right places and very thinned clear orange was put over the white to make the tires look used and older.
Last point was rubber pickup. I plan to put the car on a base with the wheels turned to one side, so rubber pickup was a must.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5546&d=1175707374

After the wheels came the brakes. I hate original PE brake discs, they are too bright and glossy and the color is absolutely wrong. Sandpaper brings a part of the solution, but a lighter to heat them first and make them brown coloured is perfect!
The brake line between the left and the right part of the caliper was made ... for the rest, the parts are kept simple.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5547&d=1175707381

As I plan to open at least one door, I removed the part from the body and started on this. The door panel was removed from the interior insert and fixed on the outer panel. Simulating the door lock and the holes for the window lifter mechanism are necessary. The door is finished but good pictures will follow later.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5549&d=1175707394

The dashbord is rather basic and I probably will change something in the future. The CF part is done with Scale motorsport decals and toned down with smoke. The CF needs to be flat, so after painting the rest of the dash, a clear flat coat went over the whle thing. The steering wheel received some turned parts to simulate the PTT button, the connecting wire was put between the steering wheel and the steering colum. When the dash will be mounted in the interior, I still nedd to mount the connecting rods between the rollcage and the steering colum to set the steer hight.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5586&d=1175969902

An eye catcher on display will be the working lights. The rear lights on the real car have 8 dots per light, so a central 3mm LED is not the right solution. I took a 5mm bright white LED and flattened the tip. After that, 8 holes were hand drilled in the head in fish thread inserted and glued. This setup works more or less like optical fibre as the distance is kept as short as possible. For longer distances, this principle will not work!

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5587&d=1175970167

To avoid the light to spread underneed the body, I used textil paint. This black paint is rather thick and isolates light perfectly. I showed the final result in our club and people were surprised by the result.

As at least one door will be opened, I started on the roll cage. The weld seems on the roll cages were done with some kind of putty. I try to simulate 3 types of weld seems. On the side protection in the door opening, the weld seems are rather thick. I've put a line of putty on there and sanded it down a bit afterwards to give it a flatter look.
The connecting points on the roll cage were done thinner and when moving the needle, I always returned a but to make a small 'heap' of putty and continued then ... The results are not that bad, although I might still change the welding seems on the door opening cross.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5601&d=1176109445

Today was a real welding day ... On the real car, the florr panels are welded to the tubular chassis. Simulating this type of weld took me 2 hours with a soldering iron. On the pictures you'll find that the seams are rather wide and heavy, but these images are real close ups. By looking at the real seems, the results are less heavy.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5778&d=1177262540

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5780&d=1177262554

Do not forget the seems still get a layer of primer and when spraying them in silver, they will become lighter and less heavy.
As you can see, the tubular chassis under the drivers seat has been rebuild. The original seat mounts are a nightmare when you intend to super detail this interior and open the drivers door. They are too heavy, so removing them was the only option.
I will use PE seat rails to put the seat back into the car, which will make the whole look 10 times nicer.

The seats underwent some changes as well. First of all, the original mounting prackets were removed and the seat shape was changed. After that, the holes for the seal belts on the sides and the bottom were opened. Next step is painting them ... I'll do it the Huudo way. I already have the pigment he used and I'm sure this will look smashing!

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5782&d=1177265381

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5781&d=1177265374

the welds are awesome, how did you do that

Woooooow! Thats nuts!

Thats some skills! Welds look great. Maybe you can make a tutorial on that. Wheels and tires look realistic too, but a bit too greasy for me. Looking forward to more progress!!

the welds are awesome, how did you do that

The welds on the chassis/floor were done using a soldering iron. The one I have is a very light one (only 10 Watt I think) and the temperature is set to 160°C. This way, you can melt the plastic without burning it.
So ... you start with making one point. The second point is done half into the first one, and so on. This way, you get small shapes of 'half moons' which simulate seems.

The ones on the roll cage are done with putty. I once bought a tube of putty (very thin one) that seems to be used by militaire builders to close the seems on planes, tanks, ... On the tube, I put an injection needle and lay down a 'roll' of putty. After it becomes hard (only a few minutes), I sand down the top of the roll so it becomes flat. The width of the seem is determined by the diameter of the needle.

I'll make a tutorial on this ... just give me some time and I'll get it done.

Excellent start and great descriptions. I am not familiar with this pre-season test car - is it going to be one of those complete cardon fibre bodies?

Excellent start and great descriptions. I am not familiar with this pre-season test car - is it going to be one of those complete cardon fibre bodies?

No. Parts will be in CF (like the front splitter, rear spoiler, ...) but the main body will be in matt black. I'm hesitating though to make the doors in white. I have a picture of a black test car with white doors but no reference on date, driver, team, ...
The white door would give me the opportunity to make the part behind the exhaust a bit yellowed because of the fuel fumes and exhaust gasses!

nice details. great idea on making the seam welds on the cockpit :)

Great thread!
I'm amazed with all the new things I just learned here.
Thanks

Great thread!
I'm amazed with all the new things I just learned here.
Thanks

:iagree:

Well, opening a door is always fun. For each car, this is different. I opened the left hand doors on Tamiya's 2001 Subaru WRC and it was very easy as the lower part of the dooropening remained in place. Only the rear wheelarche needed to be redone.

This car is different as the floor (and the lower part of the body) are seperated, so when you cut the door away, the body becomes fragile. The first step after removing the door is putting everything back on the floorpanel so that everything added from now on does not influence the positioning of the body on the floor afterwards.
The inner door panels were done as well (the door panel was removed from the complete sidepanel) and the remainings are fixed on the body using styrene tubes. The tubes are rather thick, but they will be miled away afterwards when rebuilding the pillars.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5878&d=1177868667

The problem here is that the border of the interior in the door opening is rather high and forseen to be mounted with the original doorpanel. So, if we stick with the original interior border, it will be impossible to have a nice junction between the CF floor panel and the silver dooropening parts. Only solution here is removing the border and rebuilding the complete door opening.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5879&d=1177868677

In the image above you can see the styrene strip that will be the border of the metal silver door opening.

Next step is rebuilding the border of the door opening. When everything will be painted, the rubber moulding for the door opening will recover most of the seemlines, but a good basis in plastic is very important to start rebuilding the final shape!

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5880&d=1177868689

The last image shows the body seperated from the floor. The door opening is ready now to be shapes using putty. Next update will be ... a dusty one after all the sanding and rebuilding.

So ... the door opening is finished. After a lot of filling, sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding AGAIN and so on, I'm almost finished. The job is almost done. I still need to do the hinges, which for me is the dullest part! No fun at all doing that, but ... I can't put the door next to the car on the floor!

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=6253&d=1180030985

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=6254&d=1180030997

Meanwhile, I've been working on another issue as well, something that keeps me busy since I got into 24th scale again.

Seatbelts.

I'm doing them with very thing lead sheet for some time now and what I like most is that you can bent them and put them in whatever shap you want. Very realistic, very precise but ... no texture! OK, so there's other aftermarket stuff like Studio 27 and mostlikely everybody disagrees with me know but for me, it just doesn't do the job. Not on scale, too rough, ...

So ... after a couple of months of research and testing, I found the holy grale (for me at least). I'm very pleased with the result, although it still needs some fine tuning. The texture is still a bit too deep on some parts, but we'll get there.

After airbrushing the belts with grey enemal, I applied the PE buckles from Eduard. For me, they are the best out there. To finish them, I wheathered them with Tamiya's wheathering set (from which I still need to take away a bit as it is a bit over the top).

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=6255&d=1180031012

Next thing on the belts are the pads. I'll make them the same as I always do. Double sides tape, one layer of a Cleanex tissue and wood glue.

So, just what is your 'magic' belt material.
Those look great, BTW.

Yes, what is this material you use. The belts look great!

Excellent project and great skills :thumbsup:

I'm looking forward to seeing what comes next :)

After a lot of hesitation, I finally decided to open the bonnet and trunck as well. The rear won't be much of a problem. 3 oilcoolers, 2 fuelpumps and some tubing are the major parts.

The front however is another story. As nothing is included in the kit, I will have to scratch everything. An old engine from the scrab bow is a good basis, the radioators, ducts, intake, suspension, ... will have to be home made.

More to come ...

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=6359&d=1180781723

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=6360&d=1180781737

To start, the air duct on the front bonnet needed to be reshaped. This duct is bringing fresh air to the dashboard and drivers compartment.
I made the new duct using styrene sheet and putty. The shape still needs some adjustment as the curves are not the same on both sides.
http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=6394&d=1180931729

For the motorbay, I started making the base square for the engine support. After that, the front engine mount was made out of styrene sheet. The strips and tubes are glued to the original floor and the gaps between the tubes will be used to similate the weld seems.
The bigger tubes on the sides are the main chassis tubes on which the suspension is fixed. When opening the truck, I decided not to use the LED's but the put the car in the air on it's air jacks and take one (or more) of the wheels of. Because of this, the suspension will need to be simulated and the suspension arms will need to be redone.
http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=6395&d=1180931773

Because everything needs to be well alligned, I made a flat bed out of 2 sheets of 5mm PC. This stable basis makes it possible to allign all the parts correctly before attaching them.
http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=6396&d=1180931814

nice nice, keep it going and succes with the rest :grinyes:

Looking great! I guess not too many views because it's not a Ferrari, but the detail work is turning out great!

Dayum!!:eek: I gotta see how this turns out!! Terrific work so far!!:sunglasse

wow, nice progress so far! so, what's the magic belt material? :D

Wow!! Very impressive!!

Great level of detail, and I also want to know what you did use for the seatbelts?, they look great!!

So, here's the little secret. I didn't say it was for sale like this ... so, for those handyman out there, here's how to make it.

First of all, I find it necessary that a seatbelt can be bent in position and remains in that position as well. PE seatbelts are nice, but there's hardly any good sets on the market and no structure for most of them.
So, rule number 1: use a metal-like basis to make sure a bent seatbelt remains in that position.

Secondly, the texture of the material needs to be very fine. Solution ... go into a hobby shop that sells stuff for all hobbies and you'll find that silk has a very fine structure. So solution to the second point ... buy the silk!

When you arrive home, take a piece of aluminium tape (that what I used for the first ones) of lead tape and fix it on a very flat surface. Make sure there's absolutely no dust or particles under the tape. Everything under the tape surface will be projected in the final result.

Then, use a #120 (or so) sandpaper to rub the tape surface. Next, put a rather thick layer of 2 component expoxy glue on the tape surface and put the silk on top of the glue. You'll see that the silk soaks up the glue and after a few seconds, it will be wet on most places.

Now comes the tricky part ...

Take a thin piece of plastic card (I used a small piece of visor tear-off) and use it to rub the excess glue away. Make sure you press one side of the silk down with something to avoid the fibres shifting.
After a few movements, you'll see that the texture becomes rather dry. This is the end point. Let is dry completely now and paint it in the desired colour!

Sounds difficult perhaps ... but it isn't!

Great detail , .... :D

So, moving houses meant for me this time that I got my own model room again. After making everything ready in the house, I started my finishing my model room.
I finally got time to install and connect my mini-lathe and man, I'm happy with the quality of the Sherline lathe, so happy I ordered the mill straight away.

But ... back to modelling now!

I fist attacked the brakes ... again. Opening the front, side and rear of the car meant I would need to take at least 2 wheels of. After all, the car will be put in the air on it's airjacks.
So, I turned the central wheelnut parts on the brakes, opened the ventilation slots on the sides of the discs and I made the holes in the rims.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7140&d=1186391438

Next were the airducts for the intercoolers and the radiators. In the beginning, I did not see how to make those. After all, they need to be very thin and espacially the intercooler ducts have very weird shapes.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7138&d=1186391374

I drew them on a piece of paper tape (right on sclae) and transfered that onto very thin aluminium sheet. Cutting them, sanding the edges and fixing them onto the radiators was already half the jo done.
To do the sides, I used 2 layers of aluminium tape that I fixed to the front and rear of the ducts. Using 2 thing sheets make the thickness just on scale.
To avoid the tape from bending and flexing, I covered the sides with a layer of superglue. Some layers of primer will make it possible to sand the last seems away.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7139&d=1186391391

Comments and findings are always welcome!

This is going to be impressive when finished. Really like the look of those belts.

So, not posting doesn't mean no work has been done. Mostly preparation for the future mounting of this kit has been the issue lately. Following things have been prepared:

- wheelarches in the engine compartment have been changed
- the final engine position has been chosen
- turbo's have been dryfitted
- the exhaust manifold towards the turbo's has been created (almost finished).

After long preparations and modifications to the chassis, I needed to see something finished for once. Starting a second kit is not an option for me, otherwise, this build would last 5 years!
So, I attacked the intale manifold. the whole thing is made out of styrene. First I started with the middle part in flat sheet, afterwards, the admission tubes on the side were made from several diameters and than puttied and sanded to have 2 cones.
The CF decals are from SMS and normally, I would downtone all CF decals because they are too bright, but not this time. The car will be in matt black already so that would make everything too dark, so after applying the Nismo decal, the whole was coated with a matt varnish.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7443&d=1188882657

Next to be finished were the dashboard and the seat. Both items were covered with ultra fine embossing powder and than sprayed with enemal matt black. Highlichting the details by drybrushing both items was necessary.
The CF-kevlar decals for the seat are from Studio 27. The seat belt material is home made, the buckles are from Eduard and the seat stands are ... home made. I did the design and drawing, Hhugo did the etsing. These seat stands are a must. Opening a door and seeing the seat on the original Tamiya seat supports would be rediculous!

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7444&d=1188882666

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7445&d=1188882674

Last but not least for the interior, the central console with all the switches, fuses ...
The fuses are made from watch leftovers, the rest is all turned on a mini-lathe. The setting mechnism for the anti-roll bars is home made as well (same here, I did the drawing, Hhugo did the etsing) and the connecting rods between the tubes and the levers finishes it all.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7447&d=1188882692

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7448&d=1188882710

Last for this update is the bonnet. I applied a thinned coating of enemal matt black for the fist coating and to have an impression how the rest of the car would look. The inside of the bonnet was covered with matt aluminium BMF. It dosn't stick at all, so I might replace it with Alclad, I don't know yet.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7450&d=1188883190

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7451&d=1188883406

Next update will most likely show the inside of the bonnet covered with CF and CF/kevlar decals. After that, it's time for a good dryfit and painting the chassis and interior in silver.

To be continued ...

Great job on the hood and center console. :yikes:

So, the exhausts are ready. They are made out of soldering tin. I first drilled the holes in the motorblock and then fitted the tin. Easy to use because it remains in position and is rather soft to cut with a knife.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7469&d=1189194292

The chassis has been painted using the foreseen TS-17. Because I was afraid the weld seems would disapear, I only applied a layer of primer to the engine bay and not to the interior. It seemed I was right. The weld seams are still there and they look great. A wash added more depth to the whole thing.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7468&d=1189194280

After that, the rollcage was painted. After a wash, I could check the weld seem that will be seen in the door opening ... perhaps I still change it (it looks a bit heavy).

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7471&d=1189194314

Fitting the whole thing was tempting, so I had to see how it would look.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7470&d=1189194303

So, after 3 sheets of CF decal and 1/2 of CF/kevlar decal, we're ready to go on. The decals were sealed with a layer of Dupont clear.
After 1 week of drying, the whole car received a good wash. The underside of the car has already the beginnings of oil leak simulations, something that will be finished when the car is on it's jacks. I still need to handle the car too much for the moment, so only basis stuff on the bottom.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7852&d=1193600623

The wheel hubs with brakes are mounted as well. I made the ventilated holes in the discs as on the right side, the wheels will be taken off to show all the details.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7853&d=1193600635

Before starting to detail the engine bay, I'll finish the interior first. When finished, the rollcage will protect everything. The engine bay will be the most fragile part of the car with all the bits, hoses and reservoirs.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7854&d=1193600673

The brake balance cable and cable hoses for the anti-roll have been mounted already.
The rollcage has been installed temporarelly to fix the dashbord. There are 2 setting rods for the steering colom which I still need to build; so fist I had to glue the dashbord onto the rollcage.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7855&d=1193600704

Next step is the wiring which is already in progress. More to come ...

Remarks and findings are always welcome!

That is a lot of detail in there!! :thumbsup:

I am really impressed with your wide use of different techniques and materials. A very interesting build!

(now hurry up and give us the next installment ;) )

Wow, a pleasure to watch this, I love these details like centre console or the airducts, great stuff!:)

Wondering why there is not more response to this impressive build!! And then to imagine that there is going to be an engine in this beast, from scratch...

wow...those progress pix are great :)

So, next detailling step for the interior is the height adjustment of the steering column. The 2 setting rods are made out of tubes and rods which have been soldered together. I'll let the pictures do the talking ...

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7897&d=1193943313

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7898&d=1193943381

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7899&d=1193943436


So, after that, I decided to make built an ECU which is located against the rear firewall. To simulate the colling fins on the ECU, I've cut several small rectangles out of very thin alu sheet in different dimensions. I made 5 large plates and 4 smaller ones, so glueing these 4 small plates between the 5 bigger ones makes it look like cooling fins.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7900&d=1193944274

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7901&d=1193944317


So, with the ECU being ready, you put it in place and put the wiring in.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7902&d=1193944381


Aaahhh, looks OK, so why not try the rollcage on. And then ... you discover that Tamiya made a mistake. The rollcage cross behind the driver is too thick and positioned a bit of, so the rollcages sits against the ECU.

I already took the ECU of. The paintwork was slightly damaged, so I'll make a small CF plate to cover that up!

NIce work :thumbsup:

Bummer about the roll cage ;)

So, I've almost no original kit parts left, so the lathe is doing overtime now :wink: .

First of all, I installed the CF plate with the ECU. The mounting strap of the ECU has 2 PE bolts and the CF plate has 4. Those Model Garage PE bolts are state of the art!

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7914&d=1194118647


The fire extinguisher is scratch as well. The original part is open from the bottom, so in stead of wasting time on filling it up, sanding, ..., I turned a new one. The 2 bushing will house the extinguiser heads. Weld seams have been simulated.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7915&d=1194118672


The trunk (or what's left of it in a race car). I need 3 oil coolers to go in there, but I only have one for the moment, so I'll need to reproduce another 2.
Meanwhile, I made the catchtank with all the fittings and hoses. Apart from one hose, all hoses have been fixed. The last one will go on a reïnforcment rod when the body is on the chassis.
I'll let the pics do the words ...

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7916&d=1194118687

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7917&d=1194118704

This is some inspiring work - please keep the updates flowing!

Thanks for all the nice comments!

Today, I finished the fuel circuit in the 'trunk'. The fuel pumps are home made out of aluminium rod on the mini lathe. After installing them, I started installing the wires. They are from detail master and gave me the right colors I wanted.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7933&d=1194201343

Next were the fuel lines. The weave looks right in scale, but they are too glossy and bright. I'll try to downtone them with a matt brown solution or so.
The 4 wires for the fuel pump have been punt in a insulation hose and the connector on the fire wall is installed. I first thought the bundle of wires would be too thick, but after it is finished it looks right.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=7934&d=1194201355

Fantasic detail work!!:)

That`s great details.

Great work on this build. Bravo

Bill

This is some inspiring work - please keep the updates flowing!

Yip, couldnt agree more!

... oh and I think I asked before but you may have missed it... what is the embossing powder you are using, its one of the best and finest grade I have seen?

It this one we're using ...

Thanks to Huudo for steeling his picture! :iceslolan

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=5716&d=1176832478

This might be a stupid question, but how do you apply the embossing powder? Do you paint the area to be embossed and then sprinkle it on while the paint is still wet? Or can I get the clear powder (http://www.createforless.com/products/productDetail.asp?ProductID=97537) and apply it on the seat/dash/steering wheel and paint over with whatever colors I want? What kind of adhesive will I need for that?

This might be a stupid question, but how do you apply the embossing powder? Do you paint the area to be embossed and then sprinkle it on while the paint is still wet? Or can I get the clear powder (http://www.createforless.com/products/productDetail.asp?ProductID=97537) and apply it on the seat/dash/steering wheel and paint over with whatever colors I want? What kind of adhesive will I need for that?

In our club, many ways have been tested.

- sprinkle the powder over still wet paint (but you need to be rather quick)
- sprinkle it over the part after you covered it with woodglue
- apply a very thin coat of epoxy glue and sprinkle the powder over the part.

I didn't know transparent existed. I'd suggest you use the glue method (either one of them) as it is easier to mark the borders. Then spray it with (enemal) paint in the desired color. This will seal the embossing particles.

Good luck!

The oil coolers in the rear are all casted from an old cooler I found in the scrab box. After spraying the copies black and then with Alclad, I started making the stand.
Finished, it looks like this ...

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=8004&d=1194867831

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=8005&d=1194867840


As the rollcage was mounted I could fix the seatbelts. They have been finished some time ago.
I mounted them like in the real car, the elastics were simulated using very thin wire.
It looks a bit funny but ... well, judge for yourself!

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=8006&d=1194868276

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=8007&d=1194868300


I'm hesitating if they will remain this way. It's like on the real car but ... it looks a bit funny, doesn't it?

Next to build will be the cooler hoses in the rear and then ... the engine bay is coming! :eek:

The hose fittings on the coolers are completely home made. I first turned small tubes on the lathe and then, using the deviding head, I milled 6 flat sides. A small bent rod and some short elastic strips made the hoses with the connections.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=8111&d=1195413638

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=8110&d=1195413621

The engine block is in.

First, I mounted the turbo's and connected them to the original side exhaust pipes which I modified.
After the connections, the waste gates were installed and the command tubes attached.

After that, the engine went in. The heat shields for the exhaust manifold were made using alu tape and sigaretbox paper.

Next was the intake manifold. All this went rather quickly as a lot of parts have been prepared before. The intake manifold is scratch build from styrene sheet and tubes.

http://forum.depaddock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=8112&d=1195414348

Really very interesting work you are doing here :thumbsup:

I like the idea of the elastic for holding the seatbelts in the air :lol: I have never heard of/seen that before.

I like the idea of the elastic for holding the seatbelts in the air :lol: I have never heard of/seen that before.

Hi Steve,

this is a common method in motor-racing, when drivers change during the race. This way the next driver doesn´t sit on the seatbelts and is able to fasten them rather quick.

@ gulfclk: You have my absolute respect for this model: great work on the CF, lots of scratchbuilding, looks great.

This is truly a work of art.

I love watching this build progress.
Keep them updates coming !!!

Hi,

@ gulfclk: You have my absolute respect for this model: great work on the CF, lots of scratchbuilding, looks great.
I absolutely agree!


... this is a common method in motor-racing, when drivers change during the race. This way the next driver doesn´t sit on the seatbelts and is able to fasten them rather quick.


Interesting, this I did not know at all. However, this makes sense.


Jens

Awesome project!!

Great work! Please tell me you're still working on this?!?!

Wait! The SuperGT R34s never used an Inline-6? Cause that engine looks like a V layout.