2000 Rodeo: no codes, sputters and stalls: Trans light and Cruise light comes on

RodeoBlues · 04-03-2007, 09:07 PM

My 2000 Rodeo: The trans light and the cruise light comes on when I go over bumps (sometimes) or when I make a sharp turn.

If feels like the car is about to stall - or that it is loosing power for about 5 seconds. Then the car rebounds and everything is fine untill the next episode.

Sometimes, the car WILL STALL. This happens about 10% of the time.

The dealer says there are no codes. It only happens when the car is moving.

The dealer want to replace the Engine Harness ??? The manifold gasket was already replaced once.

Please help

surferfletch · 04-03-2007, 09:15 PM

Before I saw "engine harness" I was thinking "engine harness." Might check grounds. Might jiggle the harness while idling in the driveway to see if you can reproduce it. Can you see any broken wires in there?

RodeoBlues · 04-03-2007, 09:18 PM

Thanks:

I am not sure where the Engine Harness is located? Can you tell me.

The dealer says: "One of the wires felt loose".

Want to order a new part $450 and replace $500.

I could use any advice you can offer

amigo-2k · 04-03-2007, 10:08 PM

how old is the battery?

I would start with cleaning up the connections and grounds.

The harness that has issues is the one on the drivers side. Start the car up and give it a tug and see if it stumbles.

If you are the original owner it should be covered under the warranty.

RodeoBlues · 04-03-2007, 10:23 PM

NOt sure where (or what) the wire harness is.

But I am willing to learn and try anything.

The car has not problem starting. Why could it be a battery issue?

THanks.

amigo-2k · 04-03-2007, 10:30 PM

Isuzu electrical systems will do funky things with a weak battery and/or alt.

amigo-2k · 04-03-2007, 10:41 PM

The harness is a bundle of wires that are located the the right of the coil packs (a coil pack is what is on top of the spark plug).

I checked again and you are correct it is not covered.

If you follow the negative terminal on the battery the wires end at a body ground.

You may want to find a shop that specializes in electrical issues. If they find the one bad wire they can splice in a new one.

http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq61

check the link. there are some good posts in it and one good photo.

amigo-2k · 04-15-2007, 06:40 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Isuzu...00298612QQrdZ1

used one for sale (the same person has coils for sale too).

2eyefishclaw · 04-16-2007, 07:24 PM

this does sound like a harness issue sounds like they may be charging a bit more than they should on the labor end unless they are over $100 per hr and mor tiime than the norm
i do these for our customers for 3.0 hrs at a dealership ask if they can hook u up with a oil change and tire rotate or something cause thats a bit expensive

RodeoBlues · 04-16-2007, 07:28 PM

Thanks.

RodeoBlues · 04-16-2007, 07:30 PM

I live in NY area.

Thank you very much for your reply. It seems to be working well - sort of.

Someone said put dialectric gell on the connections. What do you think.

RodeoBlues · 05-13-2007, 03:51 PM

Any chance there could not be enought transmission fluid in the engine --

causing it to stall.

And how would I check that?

bsanga · 05-14-2007, 10:56 PM

hey I was having these problems http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=702297

I have also had my trans light come on, and usually my reduced power light when I make a sharp right turn.

I tried checking the engine harness, and I got the reduced power light to come on, AND I got the motor to stall. So I opened it up and went thru the wires one by one.
once I got most of the wires seperated, I couldnt get the car to stall anymore. took the car for a test drive and drove it hard and couldn't get any faults. so I started to tape up the wires again, I did maybe half the length of what I cut open - checked the motor, everything was fine - no faults. I taped up the rest and I barely touched the harness and the motor stalled. Needless to say I took the tape off the second half for the time being. to continue testing tomorrow.

With that said - I would try your harness like the others suggested.

just start off near the 'brain' where the harness plugs in (driverside fender - metal thing with two main wire plugs about 4-5" each). with your motor on start squeezing the conduit that the wires are in. I found that putting pressure on the conduit top and bottom and then left to right worked out better than trying to squeeze the conduit as a whole. eventually you will hit a point where you apply pressure and the motor will almost stall or complete stall on you. Again, I'm only at the point where I have seperated the wires and have pulled maybe 20 wires individually - included one of the red/white ones mentioned in FAQ61. I couldnt get the car to stall so I taped them back up yaddi yaddi yadda mentioned above.

sound like you and I might have the same issue! I too feel like its a tranny issue - I mean the trans light comes on! but after checking the harness and seperating the wires giving them some 'breathing room', my truck drove like a dream!

I will keep you updated with my progess if you like

RodeoBlues · 05-15-2007, 09:29 AM

Dude:

like by the tire there is a long "wire harness" with a lot of wires. And underneth it there is a long "wire harness" with a lot of wire and both are attached to this metal looking thing.

So, what do I have to do ? Am I in the right place?

Ramblin Fever · 05-15-2007, 04:43 PM

Rodeoblues - just out of curiousity, check to see if your alternator is bolted in tight.

I had a similar occurance, right after my timing belt was replaced, they had forgotten to tighten the bolts on the alt and it was wiggling around causing shortages all over the place.

Just a thought. Also, have that alt tested UNDER a load, if it's less then 14v, find a new one.

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