Kaobb

I originally posted this under the wrong vhecile site and decided to re-post it here.....



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Spinning stud issue:
1993 Isuzu Rodeo Front Driver's Side:
My stud spun in the hole.
Evidently the serrations on the stud gave way.
The lug nut was about 3 threads from the rim.
Could not secure the head of the stud from spinning.
Could not take caliper off because the tire was in the way.
Could not remove rotor and tire because caliper could not be removed.
Guy at the garage said it would be $200 plus to fix.
SOOOO, after much contemplation I came up with the following....
I bought a Dremel tool and 2 Tungsten cutters.
I took me about an hour to groove out 2 sides of the lug nut.
FINALLY, the nut came off and I could take the other lugs off.
Tire came OFF!
NOTE:
The stud HAS to be cut off to remove because there is not enough clearance to pull it through from the backside. The rotor is a 2-piece construction and I decided I would not get into pulling it apart and not replace the stud.
YOU MUST cut off and remove the stud. If the stud is left in the rotor loose it would cause sever damage to the caliper, as it would "catch" on the caliper.
When cutting the stud, use the "Metal" Dremel disc and cut as close to the rotor surface without cutting into the rotor surface. It has to be as close as possible or the stud head will not have enough clearance on the backside to be pulled out.

Bottom line:
I spent about $70 and removed the tire.
I did not replace the stud.... it’s a 1993 not a beauty contestant hopeful.
I do not feel it poses a significant safety risk.
Maybe not the best way but it's about all I could come up with.
I hope this will help someone or give him or her a better idea on how to deal with this issue.

I wanted to upload some pictures but I am computer challenged. I couldn't figure it out.
Good Luck,
k

Ramblin Fever

At some point in my 10yrs of ownership, I've had over 9 studs replaced due to various tire shops stripping/breaking them. Most of them were paid for by Discount tire; but at one time, I had to have 5 out of 6 replaced on one spindle.

Be careful, as running with one less stud, could *possibly* weaken the others.

__________________
1997 3.2L V6 Rodeo
32" Yoko's, 16x8 MB Wheels, 2" lift, Brushguard, KC Fog's, Loadwarrior Rack
On it's way to 185k strong

2004 3.4L Tacoma TRD off-road 4x4 Double cab
32" Yoko's, Westin Bull-bar, KC Fogs 60K miles

Gizmo42

Thats why I quit giving my business to discount tire. They warped the brakes on my mistu everytime they worked on it. Even after telling them do not use and impact to put the wheels on even with torque sticks, they still would. I dont let anyone get an impact near the wheels when putting them back on my vehicles.

agreed. Isuzu studs are weak enough with all of them intact. I dont know that I would trust having one missing.

__________________
--Dave

1999 Rodeo LS 3.2 4x4 5 Speed
32x11.50-15 BFG T/A KO
3" Lift - Rancho 9000x
Rear No-Slip Locker
Flowmaster 2.25" 50 Series
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." - Dave Barry

Ramblin Fever

I've actually had VERY good luck with the one on Smoky Hill; have to travel a fair amount of distance, but they were the one's that gave me a killer deal when all 4 tires had to be replaced on the Rodeo not too long ago due to a truck that dumped a crap load of roofing nails out on the highway.

They're very careful & curtious, as they get a lot of business from us between the trailer, boat, 3 trucks. Will be 4th truck if this Amigo wears it's tires any faster

I will never go back to Big O Tire or Firestone; Big O Tire was the one that tried to lift the Rodeo buy it's front skid plate, just about had the weight of the truck resting on the oil filter, and mangled the plate pretty good - I was ticked!

Firestone put the 2nd to last set of tires on the boat-trailer, I had left the boat-trailer in their parking lot with a block between the wheels and was gonna pick it up after work/new tires. They attempted to swap the tires, and while the axle was resting on two floor jacks, they failed to block the weight of the boat as they were lifting it

If I had more time, I'd probably just take the wheels/tires off myself and send them in for balancing, then put 'em back on - that could get VERY tiring to do with 16 -16" wheels & 32" tires every 5k miles.

__________________
1997 3.2L V6 Rodeo
32" Yoko's, 16x8 MB Wheels, 2" lift, Brushguard, KC Fog's, Loadwarrior Rack
On it's way to 185k strong

2004 3.4L Tacoma TRD off-road 4x4 Double cab
32" Yoko's, Westin Bull-bar, KC Fogs 60K miles

trooperbc

open a *free* account at http://photobucket.com/

upload your pictures to that site, pay attention to the size choices so they are not too big for posting

then you link to those photos using the Insert Image icon (mountains and sun) on the Message page...and then they magically appear here

//bc

__________________
1992 trooper 3.2L v6 sohc automatic...as is

i love a good intermittent electrical challenge. . .especially when it's someone else's.

cherry97rodeo2WD

Re: Wheel Stud Issue
I too have experienced problems in this area. It came to light when I practiced removing front wheel at home and ran into struggle. Took it to Ted Weins in Las Vegas which only resulted in damage and argument. I think I ran around with one less stud for a while. Eventually replaced all front studs, when I had set of BFG All Terrains fitted at 4WD shop in Las Vegas, who did a superb job, including welding the one stud that was stripped so bad by Ted Weins. This was at 50k miles. I now have 80k and running sweet. Thanks for a great site.
"desertrail" with 97 Rodeo 2WD V6 3.2

2eyefishclaw

The Problem Is Not The Stud Its The Ass That Is Crushing The End Of The Cone Portion Of The Nut By Over Tightening.
Note: If You Grind Down The End Of The Nut On The Cone End (1/8")
The Nut Will Never Lock Up On The Stud. You May Want To Use
"never-seize" Also.