Hi all. Just wondering if I installed the steering stabilizer correctly. The instructions that came with the Rancho kit from SLR are not very good, but neither am I when it comes to these things.

Please let me know either way. Thanks
http://members.home.net/linossiy/images/left.jpg

http://members.home.net/linossiy/images/right.jpg

http://members.home.net/linossiy/images/total.jpg

Damn...either my eyes are going...or those are some blurry pics...

If the pass side is secured to the frame, and the driver's side is clamped to the draglink...you should be ok...Have you driven it around at varying speeds, some bumps...to see if it is working?

That's the proof in the pudding...

I think that you have it right from what I can make out...if that's your draglink its clamped to at least.

The basic idea is to damp the motions transmitted through the drag link...so you are bracing one end on something that doesn't move (To the frame, etc...), and the other end to the draglink...when the tires hit a rut, etc...and jerk the steering in one direction...the damper absorbs the shock, softening the jerk, smoothing out the response.

If it's doing that...you win.

Make sure you re-tighten every thing in a while.

:D


PS - That thing looks enormous....Do you have clearance from lock to lock? :eek:

Just flip the shock over.
Support the heavier end of the shock with the frame mount, instead of the relay rod.

Originally posted by Lance
[B]Damn...either my eyes are going...or those are some blurry pics...


Are you serious because to me these pictures are clear as day. Am I posting in the wrong manner?

I have turned the steering wheel full tilt both left and right and I have not run into any problems.

Originally posted by xoc
Just flip the shock over.
Support the heavier end of the shock with the frame mount, instead of the relay rod.

Are you sure about that?
Thinking about it now that makes sense (not that it is very heavy).
But in the pics is how the instructions shows it to be installed.

I have had mine on for the last 4 months and have not had any problems so I guess I'm just wondering what the benifit would be.

Hey are you busy with GOXII?
The pics that I have seen look awesome!

I wondered about the piston on the frame end...most do use the chambered end to the fixed mounted side, but I've heard that depending upon the type of valving, it will work better the other way for some applications.

The weight of the chambered end is thought to provide further damping against draglink motion, as opposed to the lighter piston rod. (As opposed to the conventional/default practice...where the heavy part being the most solidly secured, and the lighter part acting upon the drag link)

I didn't mention it, because it can be either way sometimes...and, he had directions...and usually, the orientation is the one thing that is easy to see. (Here comes Murphy and his factors...) ;)

So - Did it work?

Double check the directions to make sure it's oriented properly (Seems to be worth checking at least...no down side at least)

Good Luck!

:)

It seems there are two sets of instructions out there then...

My stabilizer is a Rancho model purchased from SLR, and shows the frame bracket bolted to the idler arm side.

Can anyone scan and post the instructions showing it mounting to the pitman side of the frame ?

Maybe the best thing is to just call Rancho and SLR on Monday morning...and ask them if the drawing was reversed or if you have it right. It may be that it just doesn't matter too much...like Can Up -vs- Can Down shocks....only matters if the valving requires an orientation to work properly, or if the weight of the can is better supported by the frame sided mount, and the action of the steering linkage by the piston side, etc.

So - Let us know what they say!

:)

As I recall the steering stabilizer is designed to dampen in both directions, so it's performance shouldn't be liimited by flipping it either direction.

The way it is mounted now would be better for when you're changing the oil. If it was the other way the boot would get covered in oil and eventually become deformed.

Originally posted by rednec
The way it is mounted now would be better for when you're changing the oil. If it was the other way the boot would get covered in oil and eventually become deformed.

But on the flip side, the shock can hit the oil filter under stress of the suspension components. I'd rather have the boot touch it.

I guess this gets back to the issue of clearance...You''ll have to cycle the suspension to see where you are at, and any changes you'll need....and we are still waiting on SLR/Rancho's version...

:rolleyes:

Cycling the suspension at rest may not be enough.
With enough stress while driving, the relay rod can move vertically over an inch. The bolts that mount the tierods to the relay rod can actually hit the frame.

I don't know if Nissan Mike showed you guys at GOX, but he's actually trimmed back a bit of the frame (little piece of metal, not the actual box steel) around where the contact occurs.

Nissan solved several problems by welding two pitman arms and idler arms together, and trimming off the excess. It drops both by 3/4", which also helps reduce wear on the relay rod with steeper tierod angles.

Wow, So if it can flex enough to hit the frame...and the draglink is in the way..(The relevent part) ...it would also hit any rod/piston, let alone a chambered end!

I didn't realize it was impossible to fit a steering stabilizer/damper...

w/o major modifications.

So - How does one make it all fit/work?

My 29" tires do not provide much impetus now, albeit the 32" - 33" ones planned make this germane enough for me to get a headstart.

:)

Just got off the phone with Spencer Low and this is what he said.

Frame side(passenger) connects to straight bracket(like original pic) which in turn connects to the canester(white part) of the stabilizer. He went on to explain why but all I understood was it offered more support to the canester and allowed the piston to work more efficently. He also mentioned that their new web site will offer instructions and how to's, no date yet.

I had a scan of the instructions I received with the SS, but my email from work never made it to my home, I'll try again tomorrow.

One more thing, Spencer never said it was wrong, just that the way they do it seems to work best.

I had to replace my stabilizer thanks to clay getting caught in the boot. Anyone else have something similar occur? I took my boot off and left it off this time. Hopefully it will last more than a year and a half. The dirt blew my upper seal out when it got trapped.

I haven't seen anyone using the boots with shocks. They seem counterproductive. Especially with a sideways shock as there is no place for the gunk to drain.

Every one I know takes all the boots off all of the shocks...not just stabilizers, but typically after they get dirty...and they're under there for somethig else...greasing the zerks, etc...and notice.

I know this is probably the last thing on anyones mind, but here is a scan of the instructions I received with my Rancho SS from SLR.

http://members.home.net/linossiy/images/scan1.jpg

It does look as though you've done it right according to their directions here, and on the phone...so as long as it works...I'd say put the issue to bed. ;)

Clearance should be the only issue as far as valving goes. This type of shock valving will function properly each way -- it has to -- unless you only turn one direction. From a performance stand point, you always want the lighter end of the components on the suspension side and the heavier stuff bolted to the frame. Suspension systems work better (and last longer) with lighter components.

Installed my stabilizer tonight. I bought mine slightly used, and notice that the bracket that attaches to the frame is different then mine. It attaches to the frame with 2 bolts and then 90's out about an inch and then 90's back down to the shock. Everything else is the same. I did flip the shock so that the canister is mounted towards the passengers side. It is really a tight fit. Wasn't expecting it to be so close to the oil filter and front diff mount.

ChuckH and I are going to do our Ranchos SS's on Sunday. We bought them from Nissan Mike if that makes any difference? I'll post pics when we are complete!

Cool, post results if you would guys. Thanks.

Good luck with the installs.

Thats how my mounting bracket looks. Guess they redesigned it to fit our trucks better.