Scobo

I am at a loss here and even our local dealership seems to be. the truck starts up good, idles good but if i bring the idle up over 1500rpm slowly it sputters. If i stomp on it it is fine. same for when i am driving, crusing it chugs and sputters but stomp on it and it goes good, slow acceleration it also chugs and sputters. i have brand new fuel filter, dist cap/rotor, plugs/wires, all 4 O2 sensors. i also have a spare egr valve that i swapped and didn't make a difference. the dealer did a fuel injector service on it and put the injector cleaner and told me to run that through. failing that they figure i have to change the injectors. i don't doubt them. the truck has 132K on it and they have never been replaced or properly cleaned/flushed. i just wanted a second opinion. And they charged me $330 to tell me that, plus the $400 tuneup i did myself. If its the injectors should i just not change them out? is there any good aftermarket products and is this a difficult job for the home mechanic. Thanks All!

twistedtech

Pull the vac plug on the egr and stuff a bolt in it. Might be the controler is sour. Next,I have seen coils do that on these things.I'm not so sure on the injectors deal. I've been doing this for a long time and have not changed to many.Seen some that should be done but really need to in order to make it run noticable different. I wouldn't jump in to that one just yet.

__________________
If it ain't broke.......screw with it till it is.

Jeremy-WI

He's going to have a hard time pulling a vacuum line off his egr. A 96 has a linear egr which is all electric.

Scobo:Sounds like a timing issue, unless your poppet valves are sticking open at times. When you stomp on the gas, it should really indicate a problem with fuel delivery(clogged filter or injectors). Has anyone checked for an intake leak? Although an intake leak should be evident at idle. I still think it has to be timing related, at light throttle is when the computer advances the timing the most(i have seen up to 40 degrees on my scantool) and when you stomp it it may go under 20 very easily. You could get a scantool hooked up that can read the cam retard or camshaft offset just to see if it is within spec(0 degrees +/- 2 degrees)

Scobo

Hey guys, so here is what they told me my problem is:
Code: P0300 stored in history
intermittant missfireing on multiple cylinders and fule trim at -14%. Due to overfueling. Checked #2 plug. Black from too much fuel. Required injector flush (which they did) and MAF sensor service to start with. recheck. Still intermittantly missing at idle but fuel trim imporved to -8%. added extra fuel system detergent to fuel tank. drive for 2 weeks and if it doesn't improve them new injectors will be required. #18203.

This make sense to anyone? i don't understand that why after a flush they still figure it could be dirty injectors. maybe they didn't want to charge me for the flush and new injectors in the same trip????

MT-2500

If you have miss fire code work on that end.
As in upper post has the camshaft retard been checked.
Has fuel pressure been tested out good?

What engine and engine code?
What brand of spark pugs?
A good engine capable scanner would give a lot of good info.
It would tell you what cylinder is miss firing and woulds be capable of running a injector balance test and give camshaft retard setting.

Ask the dealership for a factory trained engine running diagnostic tech to look at it.
If he does not have one find a dealer or repair shop that does.

__________________
Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems.
MT