38ffems

Would a malfunctioning EGR valve send codes relating to O2 sensor and intake stuff. I dont remember the exact codes but those are it for the most part. I have about 115,000 miles and have never had mechanical issue besides alternator stuff until very recently and after reading post i am wondering if maybe the EGR is at fault. I am going to try to clean it this weekend as i am still at school and have zero places to work on it. Also does anyone have recomendations for replacement shocks. I am getting rocked by bumps now and i think santa may have to leave some shocks under my tree. Nothing fancy just good replacements. THanks

38ffems

Sorry its a 98 honda passport 3.2 V6 4x4

MT-2500

We really need the code no to help you.
Get the no and post back the code no.
Saves throwing a lot of parts at it and a lot of iffie gussie work.

__________________
Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems.
MT

38ffems

I probably should have described the problems, they are very similar to other people who have had EGR problems such as crappy idle and even stalling at times. I will try to find the codes that the mechanic gave me.

amigo-2k

It could be the EGR which is easy to clean or it could be a bad intake manifold gasket.

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-Ryan
Isuzu Moderator

About the Owner
FAQ 98-04 Isuzu Rodeo, Rodeo Sport, Amigo, Trooper
2000 Amigo, V6, HT winter, ST summer, 2wd

johngyver

If you have not cleaned the EGR yet then do so before spending any money. I just recently chased down a CEL... and I was ready to buy all new oxygen sensors and more. I cleaned my EGR (which was super easy... piece of cake... a blind monkey can do it! LOL) and guess what.... my CEL is gone for good and my 3.2 V6 runs so much smoother. My pintle (as it is called... it is more like a plunger to me though) in the EGR was stuck from carbon build up. Once I sprayed it down (inside... washing it out with carb cleaner) and the plunger worked like a charm once it was cleaned and flushed out. I sprayed half of the carb cleaner down the small hole on the mounting EGR plate to clean out the passage way while the car was running (be sure to plug the big hole first with anything that will fit, I used a test light which was made of hard plastic). And that is it. I put the EGR back into place, tightened the two bolts and plugged in the wire. (Disconnect the battery to reset the computer too) My CEL is now gone and my chase is over... with out spending hundreds of dollars on parts.

I have to admit that the EGR cleaning was a scary thought at first... I am very mechanically inclined but I was kind of scared to attempt the cleaning. BUT I was so fed up with the CEL that I just jumped right in... LOL I was scared for nothing as it took me all of 20 minutes... I can not tell you just how easy it is.

I hope this helps.... I hate chasing down buggy kind of problems... but you are in the right place because these guys in here know their stuff!

Good luck!

John Gyver

38ffems

Thanks to everyone who posted, i have a nice big can of intake cleaner and I am gonna hit all the valves that seem to get posted on this board every other day. I am really beginning to think that the valves are the main problem now. I will let everyone know whats going on as soon as i get a chance to clean everything out.

johngyver

So how would you clean the intake valves exactly? I too want to do this and just like my PRE EGR thoughts I am not sure how to do it.

Do you fire the can directly into the throttle body while the engine is running? Will the engine run if you take the MAF sensor off? Can you use carb cleaner or must you use intake cleaner?

Just setting the stage for the next little project! Any and all info is appreciated.

Thanks!

John

38ffems

Hey i was wondering how much cleaner i am supposed to spray in the tube. I have spray our the EGR and the tube but only used like less than a quarter can and it helped for awhile but i need to try it again. The can is about the size of a spray paint can. Do i spray the whole can in?