Also need a torque wrench capable of 180 ft-lbs, and I used a gear puller to separate the cv.
Loosen 36mm axle nut
Pop off the wheel, caliper, rotor.
Disconnect ABS Sensor wire
Locate and remove 3 18mm? bolts on back of bearing
Remove axle nut and hub from CV axle
Clean surfaces
Install is reverse
Torquing the 3 bolts back up is a bitch 'cause you can't get a wrench in there. I guessed and luckily re-checked after a bit for the top bolt had loosed itself.
The hub itself is about $150-180, and that doesn't include the labor charge. I would question the shop that says they can do it for less than the cost of the Hub Assembly - they might not realise that you have to replace the entire assembly.
The job takes about 1.5 - 2.0 hours, and isn't all that hard. The Haynes manual has a pretty good procedure, that's what I used and I had never done one before. I have done both of mine now, within 10K of each other.
It really isn't that hard. You can "borrow" the puller, torque wrench and 36mm socket from the loaner program at Advanced Auto or AutoZone. I think the torque specs for the 99 is around 85 ft/lbs, but that is given in the haynes manual also.
While you have is apart grease everything that you can see and check your ball joints, I/O tie rod ends and pitman/idler arm. It is easier to get to some of these while the wheel and hub are off.
Also, if you haven't done your Upper Control Arm Bushings, now is a good time to get them taken care of. Pretty easy since you have almost everything removed to get to the UCA bolts.
Good Luck, and let us know how it goes, and what you decide.
bill
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billibong
99 4X4 Blazer LS Vin W
Repairs:
U/L Ball Joints, I/O Tie Rod Ends, New Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves, New Idler Arm, R & L Front Hubs, R & L Upper CA Bushings, New Gabriel Ultramax Shocks (what a difference)
F & R Brakes and Rotors at 110,000.
Infinity Speakers to replace the blown factory sets.
162K+ and still kicking.
The hub itself is about $150-180, and that doesn't include the labor charge. I would question the shop that says they can do it for less than the cost of the Hub Assembly - they might not realise that you have to replace the entire assembly.
The job takes about 1.5 - 2.0 hours, and isn't all that hard. The Haynes manual has a pretty good procedure, that's what I used and I had never done one before. I have done both of mine now, within 10K of each other.
It really isn't that hard. You can "borrow" the puller, torque wrench and 36mm socket from the loaner program at Advanced Auto or AutoZone. I think the torque specs for the 99 is around 85 ft/lbs, but that is given in the haynes manual also.
While you have is apart grease everything that you can see and check your ball joints, I/O tie rod ends and pitman/idler arm. It is easier to get to some of these while the wheel and hub are off.
Also, if you haven't done your Upper Control Arm Bushings, now is a good time to get them taken care of. Pretty easy since you have almost everything removed to get to the UCA bolts.
Good Luck, and let us know how it goes, and what you decide.
bill
That was for replacing the $7 dollar bearing, that's why it is cheaper.
Thanks for the advise, I am fixing this for inspection to sell it.
Need a puller and a big air gun to remove that nut! Mine wasn't powerful enough but a heavy equipment mechanic from work stopped by and got his out. And his big old torque wrench!
Just a tip on breaker bars... A small breaker bar or even a standard ratchet can be enhanced with a metal pipe or even a PVC pipe over the handle. I was doing this exact repair and I don't have a 1/2" breaker bar. The only thing in the shop was PVC pipes so I gave it a shot and it worked like a dream.
Sometimes you just need to be a little creative...
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2004 Explorer XLT
4.0L 4x4
Anyone who said There Is No Such Thing As A Stupid Question never worked in a grocery store!
Just a tip on breaker bars... A small breaker bar or even a standard ratchet can be enhanced with a metal pipe or even a PVC pipe over the handle. I was doing this exact repair and I don't have a 1/2" breaker bar. The only thing in the shop was PVC pipes so I gave it a shot and it worked like a dream.
Sometimes you just need to be a little creative...
Not a smart thing to do. They are only made for a certain amount of force.
NEVER extend a rachet or a smaller breaker bar like that. It isn't meant for it.
I had a friend do that in front of me and the bar snapped and swung up and caught him and broke his jaw and 4 teeth.
Get the proper tool and save yourself some pain.
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1995 Factory Blazer Service Manual for sale, PM if interested.
