Ball Joints- TRW, Moog, Perfect Circle, or other?

zachzchw · 09-13-2006, 02:03 PM

I think I need new ball joints again already. (Had them done in January, but used the cheapest ones autozone had. I know, I know.) So, what should I replace them with this time?
All of the above mentioned brands have a lifetime warranty, but is any one better than the others? Id like to do it as little as possible.
Im leaning towards the TRW, they are about $30 each, so that would be around $120 for the entire set.
The Moogs would be $260 for the set.
Ive read that Moog and TRW are the same thing, made by the same company, with the same warranty, just under a different brand name and a VERY different price.
Would I lose anything in quality by going with the TRW set instead of the Moogs?
Or even the Duralast lifetime warranty ones? Im told those are made by "Perfect Circle".

blazee · 09-13-2006, 02:13 PM

I voted for TRW. I've always had good luck with them, and haven't seen any fail.

If you want one of the more expensive sets, check out rockauto. A full set of moog is about $200 and AC Delco is about $225

zachzchw · 09-13-2006, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazee

I voted for TRW. I've always had good luck with them, and haven't seen any fail.

If you want one of the more expensive sets, check out rockauto. A full set of moog is about $200 and AC Delco is about $225

Any reason for one of the more expensive sets?
Is it true that TRW and Moog are the same thing? I was also told to look at a brand called "power performance".

Cloud Strife · 09-13-2006, 09:30 PM

I just had a set of Moog put on my Blazer and OMG it is like a completely different ride. And I only had 1 bad joint per side.

So I cannot really comment on the longevity or performance at this time as mine were just replaced on Tuesday.

zachzchw · 09-14-2006, 01:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cloud Strife

I just had a set of Moog put on my Blazer and OMG it is like a completely different ride. And I only had 1 bad joint per side.

So I cannot really comment on the longevity or performance at this time as mine were just replaced on Tuesday.

Explain that a bit more?
Better ride quality? What did the Moogs replace?

Cloud Strife · 09-14-2006, 02:41 AM

Better ride quality at least what I am experiencing. Probably just my imagination though.

The MOOGS replace factory OEM ball joints.

DINO55 · 09-14-2006, 08:53 AM

My vote went to TRW's Becauce that's what I put on my truck (uppers and lowers) 16 months ago and she's still as tight as my first GF... I just grease them often for smooth and trouble free ride's...

MOOG is the parent company of TRW....................

billibong · 09-14-2006, 09:13 AM

I voted for the TRW. Great luck with them on my truck, and as has been noted, they are made by Moog. I don't know if that means that didn't quite make spec to get the Moog stamp, so got stamped TRW, or if they are the same ball joint, just a different name.
I initially went with the Duralast on my truck when I had to replace mine. Ended up taking them back after they failed at about 10k of wear and used the maney towards the TRWs - as recommended by most of the guys (and gals) on this forum. I have been happy with them, very happy.

BlazerLT · 09-14-2006, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zachzchw

I think I need new ball joints again already.

How do you know they need to be replaced?

blazes9395 · 09-14-2006, 01:54 PM

To check for ball joint wear, you raise the truck up in the front, on a hoist its much easier, but not many have a hoist. Rasie the front up, nd make sure your tires are inflated to proper pressure, grab the tire at the 12 and 6 position and push and pull. If its loose, you have ball joint problem. Also if your ball joints are real bad, wedge a large crowbar between the ball joint( with the tire off of course) and push up and down, if there is play, you need new ball joints.

zachzchw · 09-14-2006, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

How do you know they need to be replaced?

I have the same clunk I had before when they needed to be replaced. Also, one of my boots is busted (drivers side upper) and the lower zerk hole doesnt take grease- the zerk just twists around.

BlazerLT · 09-14-2006, 05:37 PM

That clunk is more than likely the hood hinges needing the special washers.

As for the zerk, you need to tighten it, they are threaded I believe.

Also, you have to take the weight off of the front end to get any grease in them, they will barely take any with the weight on them.

zachzchw · 09-14-2006, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

That clunk is more than likely the hood hinges needing the special washers.

As for the zerk, you need to tighten it, they are threaded I believe.

Also, you have to take the weight off of the front end to get any grease in them, they will barely take any with the weight on them.

Nope, not the hood hinge.
I tightened the zerk as much as I could, still wouldnt take anything. The truck was jacked up, so the weight was off.
I can take some pics, not sure if anything will be visible or not though.

zachzchw · 09-14-2006, 06:54 PM

Probably wont be able to tell if anything is wrong from the pics, but thought Id put them up just in case. Most of you know what youre looking for better than I do.

BlazerLT · 09-14-2006, 08:49 PM

I don't see any reason there to replace them.

Grease coming out the seals a bit is completely normal in most applications.

The one with grease on it is the tie-rod end and they are always goopy even after a month from being new.

Now to free up the zerc to get the grease in there take a small philips screw driver and push the ball bearing in the center in and out 20-30 times to free it up and to clea the obstruction.

Try this on your hood:

http://media.putfile.com/clunkfix

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