I think I need new ball joints again already. (Had them done in January, but used the cheapest ones autozone had. I know, I know.) So, what should I replace them with this time?
All of the above mentioned brands have a lifetime warranty, but is any one better than the others? Id like to do it as little as possible.
Im leaning towards the TRW, they are about $30 each, so that would be around $120 for the entire set.
The Moogs would be $260 for the set.
Ive read that Moog and TRW are the same thing, made by the same company, with the same warranty, just under a different brand name and a VERY different price.
Would I lose anything in quality by going with the TRW set instead of the Moogs?
Or even the Duralast lifetime warranty ones? Im told those are made by "Perfect Circle".

I voted for TRW. I've always had good luck with them, and haven't seen any fail.

If you want one of the more expensive sets, check out rockauto. A full set of moog is about $200 and AC Delco is about $225

I voted for TRW. I've always had good luck with them, and haven't seen any fail.

If you want one of the more expensive sets, check out rockauto. A full set of moog is about $200 and AC Delco is about $225

Any reason for one of the more expensive sets?
Is it true that TRW and Moog are the same thing? I was also told to look at a brand called "power performance".

I just had a set of Moog put on my Blazer and OMG it is like a completely different ride. And I only had 1 bad joint per side.

So I cannot really comment on the longevity or performance at this time as mine were just replaced on Tuesday.

I just had a set of Moog put on my Blazer and OMG it is like a completely different ride. And I only had 1 bad joint per side.

So I cannot really comment on the longevity or performance at this time as mine were just replaced on Tuesday.

Explain that a bit more?
Better ride quality? What did the Moogs replace?

Better ride quality at least what I am experiencing. Probably just my imagination though.

The MOOGS replace factory OEM ball joints.

My vote went to TRW's Becauce that's what I put on my truck (uppers and lowers) 16 months ago and she's still as tight as my first GF... I just grease them often for smooth and trouble free ride's...

MOOG is the parent company of TRW....................

I voted for the TRW. Great luck with them on my truck, and as has been noted, they are made by Moog. I don't know if that means that didn't quite make spec to get the Moog stamp, so got stamped TRW, or if they are the same ball joint, just a different name.
I initially went with the Duralast on my truck when I had to replace mine. Ended up taking them back after they failed at about 10k of wear and used the maney towards the TRWs - as recommended by most of the guys (and gals) on this forum. I have been happy with them, very happy.

I think I need new ball joints again already.

How do you know they need to be replaced?

To check for ball joint wear, you raise the truck up in the front, on a hoist its much easier, but not many have a hoist. Rasie the front up, nd make sure your tires are inflated to proper pressure, grab the tire at the 12 and 6 position and push and pull. If its loose, you have ball joint problem. Also if your ball joints are real bad, wedge a large crowbar between the ball joint( with the tire off of course) and push up and down, if there is play, you need new ball joints.

How do you know they need to be replaced?

I have the same clunk I had before when they needed to be replaced. Also, one of my boots is busted (drivers side upper) and the lower zerk hole doesnt take grease- the zerk just twists around.

That clunk is more than likely the hood hinges needing the special washers.

As for the zerk, you need to tighten it, they are threaded I believe.

Also, you have to take the weight off of the front end to get any grease in them, they will barely take any with the weight on them.

That clunk is more than likely the hood hinges needing the special washers.

As for the zerk, you need to tighten it, they are threaded I believe.

Also, you have to take the weight off of the front end to get any grease in them, they will barely take any with the weight on them.


Nope, not the hood hinge.
I tightened the zerk as much as I could, still wouldnt take anything. The truck was jacked up, so the weight was off.
I can take some pics, not sure if anything will be visible or not though.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b313/zachzchw/sep13pics034.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b313/zachzchw/sep13pics035.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b313/zachzchw/sep13pics036.jpg

Probably wont be able to tell if anything is wrong from the pics, but thought Id put them up just in case. Most of you know what youre looking for better than I do.

I don't see any reason there to replace them.

Grease coming out the seals a bit is completely normal in most applications.

The one with grease on it is the tie-rod end and they are always goopy even after a month from being new.

Now to free up the zerc to get the grease in there take a small philips screw driver and push the ball bearing in the center in and out 20-30 times to free it up and to clea the obstruction.

Try this on your hood:

http://media.putfile.com/clunkfix

I don't see any reason there to replace them.

Grease coming out the seals a bit is completely normal in most applications.

The one with grease on it is the tie-rod end and they are always goopy even after a month from being new.

Now to free up the zerc to get the grease in there take a small philips screw driver and push the ball bearing in the center in and out 20-30 times to free it up and to clea the obstruction.

Try this on your hood:

http://media.putfile.com/clunkfix


The boot is busted- as soon as I put grease in it, it comes right out of the back of the boot.

The boot is busted- as soon as I put grease in it, it comes right out of the back of the boot.

That is a tie rod boot, not a ball joint. There is no need to replace it, as long as there is grease in it it will be fine.

I was able to replace a bad zerk. just find a wrench that fits over and take it out. New ones are about 50cents at Autozone. also, you can upgrade to a 90degree zerk or 45degree or whatever that makes it easier to reach with a grease gun ...



Nope, not the hood hinge.
I tightened the zerk as much as I could, still wouldnt take anything. The truck was jacked up, so the weight was off.
I can take some pics, not sure if anything will be visible or not though.

The problem Im having (that led me to believe its the ball joints) follows...
When turning left, I get a loud clunk/bang sound, like metal hitting metal. No idea what else it would be, or what to look for.
I assumed since the boot was busted, and not holding grease, that it was the source of my problems.

The problem Im having (that led me to believe its the ball joints) follows...
When turning left, I get a loud clunk/bang sound, like metal hitting metal. No idea what else it would be, or what to look for.
I assumed since the boot was busted, and not holding grease, that it was the source of my problems.


That is a TIE ROD end, not a BALL JOINT!

That is a TIE ROD end, not a BALL JOINT!

I understand that. I was just explaining that what I heard sounded like a description of a bad ball joint noise.

Would the noise be from a worn tie rod? How can I determine it for sure?

Have you checked out the video I showed you earlier and done the tests I illustrated in it?

Have you checked out the video I showed you earlier and done the tests I illustrated in it?


Its not the hood. I have already taken care of that.

Its definitely from the drivers side front end.

Check your sway bar end links and bushings.

Check your sway bar end links and bushings.

Is there any place that shows the entire underbody of the truck, with each part labeled?
Im not very knowledgeable in knowing what is what......Im slowly learning though, with the help of this forum!

There is a bar that goes from one side of the truck to the other.

It is called the sway bar or the stabilizer bar.

At the end it will have some rubber pucks and a long bolt that goes through the control arm on each side. These are called end links.

The bar is held onto the under side of the truck with two sway bar bushings.

If you have a Haynes manual there is a pretty good set of pictures in it labeling the parts of the underside of the truck. If you don't have one, it is a good $15 investment if you plan on having your truck for longer than a year - it will pay for itself quite quickly.

Went and had it looked at- they didnt find anything.
Said all the bushings were fine, the sway bar was fine, and the ball joints were fine.
So now Im stuck........

Sorry to bring the hood thing up again, but what exactly did you do with the hood and the hinge?

I just installed a set of Moog upper and lower ball joints on my 2000 4wd Blazer which I bought on-line for $180 (shipping included). It is such a time-consuming job that I wasn't about to take any chances with the cheaper Autozone parts, like I do with other more easily-installed/less critical parts. I was very happy with the fit -- no filing, pressing or banging required to install them once the originals were removed. It was almost like they were made for the car....lol. The end result is a nice and tight ride.

AJT - Was that for two upper and two lower ball joints? or, just one of each??
Where did you get them from? That is a pretty good deal.

Sorry to bring the hood thing up again, but what exactly did you do with the hood and the hinge?


I had the special washers put on........this noise is definitely from the lower part of the truck, drivers side.
I guess I am going to go to a few other shops and see if any of them can find the problem.

AJT - Was that for two upper and two lower ball joints? or, just one of each??
Where did you get them from? That is a pretty good deal.


That was for all 4 ball joints. I bought them from www.AutoPartsGiant.com. They were running a 10% off sale at the time (otherwise it would have been about $200 total) and they always have free shipping on orders over $50 but charge $3.95 for "handling":

MOOG K5335 BALL JOINT, LOWER Qty 2 @ 44.95 each
MOOG K5320 BALL JOINT, UPPER Qty 2 @ 53.18 each
Product Total: $196.26
Promotional Savings: $19.63
Shipping: Free Ground!
Handling: $3.95
Subtotal: $180.58
Total: $180.58