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I don't know how people drive with the floor moved up 4". I can barely fit in a stck standard cab S-10. I'm all for the frame job over the body drop. What you do is mark the frame at the fire wall before you remove the cab so you know where to cut it off. You fabricate a whole new fram from there back out of box steel tubing. I prefer the heavy Ga. 1x1" square extrusions in 8 ft. lengths. I'd go 4 wide on each side with 1 on each side of the drive train path for the center hump your gonna have to put in the floor. Then you just weld the front "sub frame" to the new flat racing frame. To put the front end back on you'll have to lower the core supprt and bumper mounting brackets. I'd also rework the inner fender wells so theycome up to the hood. You'll have to move or lose the A/C, the window washer fluid bottle, and the battery.
The best part about this type of drop is that you can keep the bed floor where it is. By using a 2 door Blazer fuel cell you can put it above the frame but under the bed floor. You can also mount your tanks and copressors on top of the frame but under the bed floor in fron of the step notch.
The only real draw back is there's not much room left for exhaust pipes. If you "Y" each header into dual 1" pipes on each side you can get it to the back of the cab and bend up to below the bed floor but above the frame. Then into another "Y" and into dual cats and muflers then out the back through the side quarter panels or through the roll pan. A dual 2" exhaust should be plenty of breathing for a mild built 350.
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