CEL Codes P1131, P1233 & B1342

B1342 ECU Is Defective. P1131 Manufacturer Control Fuel air metering, (and) Insufficent Switching O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Sensor/Lean. P1233 Fuel Pump Driver Module off-line, (and) Fuel Pump Driver not communicating with PCM.

This is one for the pros. :grinyes: 03 Vulcan "U" engine now 43K miles. Ran like a top then 6-22-06 engine began to lope and surge at idle then gradually loped more & more until idling very rough and surging when in gear at idle. CEL light comes on, I take to independent shop and they pull the three codes above. Long story short, Tech claims he is a factory trained Ford mechanic and has seen this same scenario many times before; the PCM going bad and Ford will replace it free. He cleared the codes and told me to take it to Ford.

I went to Ford service and they said if the PCM is bad they will fix it under warranty, BUT, the other tech cleared the darn codes and Ford has to pull the codes indicating the PCM is bad before they can replace it. Ohhhh Kay, so where does that leave me because he cleared the codes and disconnected the Negative battery terminal so the computer reset itself and now it is idling smooth as can be, and of course, the CEL is not on. Ford service writer said don't worry, it will come back on and when it does bring it straight to me. OK, will do.

Now two months have passed with no problems or CEL. Running great and put over 600 miles on it and last Tuesday 8-15-06 the CEL light comes on. Ford dealer way on the ohter side of town and I'm right by Advance Auto, swing in and they pull code P1131 showing Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering and that was when I cleaned the MAF with the Lectric cleaner. Took the negative terminal loose for 30 minutes, stepped on the brake pedal and cleared the code.

Runs fine until yesterday engine started intermitten surging and loping at idle, drove it to Savannah and around town 143 miles total and after much surging and loping the CEL finally comes on. Needed gas so checked mileage and got 22 mpg. This morning went to a different Advance Auto and pulled code P1131 showing Insufficent switching, O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Sensor/Lean. Drove around town and on road for 25 miles and engine hasn't loped or surged once, CEL still on. The previous tank of gas when I filled up I put a bottle of WalMart injector cleaner in, but now it's pretty much fresh gas with no injector cleaner in it.

Wondering where I should go from here because code P1131 says nothing about the PCM being bad and I wish the first tech hadn't cleared the codes.
Ford charges $54. to pull codes, but if code doesn't show PCM faulty they won't replace it. O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1; Is that bank in front or next to firewall? Parts man said Sensor 1 is BEFORE the cat converter and thinks Bank 1 is in front, I looked and should be easy to get to and change. However, if that isn't the problem I hate to spring for $50. for a new one and then the PCM be faulty and Ford fixes it free and everything is hunkey-dorie. I thought maybe if I drive it awhile and the engine gets to loping and surging again maybe it will set the codes for a faulty PCM. Do the Oxygen sensors usually go bad at 40K miles?

Sooooo, where should I go from here and what would you do if it were in this situation? :dunno: Dag-nab it! If only that tech hadn't cleared the codes I'd be good to go. Reminds me of an old adage Grandma used a lot, . . . "If wishes were Horses all the beggars would ride . ."

Thanks for letting me cry on your shoulders, I needed to vent . . . :rolleyes:

B-codes are for body computers. The PCM is part of the powertrain and would be a P-code.

The B1342 code is for the airbag system, Restraints Control Module (RCM) is faulty, not for the PCM. Sounds like you need to track down the fuel system issue to solve the idle problem, but it's probably not the PCM.

As for bank 1, that will be the rear bank near the firewall. Sensor 1 is indeed before the catalyst, sensor 2 is after the catalyst.

It's not common for O2 sensors to faul after only 40k miles, but if there is a problem upstream of the sensors which causes them to be contaminated, then yes, they can fail after 40k miles.

I would suspect you have another issue that you will want to fix before replacing the O2 sensors. If not, you will probably destroy the new O2 sensors in short order.

Check all your vacuum lines. Also, make sure that the air intake hose is properly secured at the MAF sensor and the throttle body. If you have unmetered air in the intake system (air entering after the MAF sensor) that could cause the conditions you describe. Maybe you loosened the clamps to get the MAF sensor out to clean it and didn't get them on tight or quite straight?

-Rod

I got that B1342 off the print out from the shop, but maybe he meant P instead of B. Found this thru Google: P1342 Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 1 Short to B+. That doesn't sound right because if it was shorted the engine would be misfiring and I haven't felt anything like that. I paid them $75. to diagnose the problem so tomorrow I'm going back to the shop and ask them to clarify their error.

Later this afternoon I'll get it out in the sunlight and give the air intake and vacuum lines a good going over and see if I can find a leak. I'm going to give it a decent try and if the CEL light stays on I'll take it to the Ford dealer and let them diagnose it. Thank you very much Rod and I'll let ya'll know how goes it.

Edit 9:PM. I looked it over and pulled and tugged on every line and gave the MAF & hose and lines a good look-see and only found one line behind the intake manifold pulled off about a quarter inch so pushed it back on where it should be. Don't think it was enough to leak, but we'll see. Also checked the PVC elbows and any and everything that I could find that was a vacuum line. I cleaned the PCV valve and cleared the computer and will drive it and see what gives.

http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=2130&ovchn=GGL&ovcpn=Campaign%2B1&ovcrn=%22code%2Breader%22&ovtac=PPC

Can you please suggest a good OBDII reader that isn't *real* expensive and will do the basic things I need.

Well, I have not used the Actron scan tools that many of the chain parts stores sell, but I did download the owner's manual for the 9135 at one time and it seems like a good unit. The first scan tool I bought was an AutoXray EZ-Scan 5000 (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3389&mfrcode=AXR&mfrpartnumber=5000) and have been very pleased with it. I got mine off eBay and it came with the EZ-PC software which is nice. However, this tool does not come with the enhanced codes (manufacturer specific codes) but the upgrade can be purchased for like $50 per manufacturer.

I later ended up going with the OTC Genisys (not what I'd consider affordable) because it would allow me to scan ABS, airbag, transmission, body computers, etc. It also can perform two-way communications with the car computers as well, and is VERY upgradeable.

I still use the AutoXray for quick scans, but even it doesn't come close to the functionality of the Genisys.

As for a simple tool, any of the ones at the link you provided would probably work fine for reading codes, but you may want to consider the Car Chip (http://www.davisnet.com/drive/products/carchip_products.asp). The price of their entry version is very competitive and allows you to perform data logging. It also will read codes, download data logs to your PC, and clear codes. Some versions offer pretty much everything the simple scan tools offer plus more for a very comparable price. And yes, I do also have a Car Chip E/X and it works as well as advertised. Unfortunately, it won't work on my Lincoln LS8. You will want to check the conflicts and exclusions list (http://www.davisnet.com/drive/products/CarChip_Exclusions.pdf) to make sure your car is compatible if you are considering this option.

-Rod

Innova makes a digital OBD-II for a 100 that rivals a few top end models.

Pro:
LCD Screen
USB Connector
Emissions
Reads 11 different independent monitors
Green Light
clears and reads codes
Reads Network codes
CAN compatable

Con:
Can't read body or chassis codes
Only reads DTC codes not data
Can not tune or plug data/pcm

Check your PCV valve and gromet, that is what usually goes bad to give you the p1131 code, they usually get cloged or the spring in them goes bad, buy a new one and the new gromet it should cost like 5 bucks, so it isnt that expensive. That should clear up the problem, then i would replace the o2 sensor, it is probably garbage now.

~Ken

New PVC valve and new grommet a little less than five bucks at Advance Auto. Yes, the old grommet hole was loose to the point the PCV would fall out of it so I know air was leaking around it, I guess time, age and heating up and cooling off took it's toll. New grommet had to force the PCV down it so it's nice and tight now. Thanks berry, berry much and the CEL light hasn't come back on yet so if it does next step will be replace the Bank 1 O2 sensor 1,
Must say, it sure does run good, went to an out island this morning and on a long straightaway I stuck it and, boy oh boy, did that Vulcan ever kick in the afterburner and git' on down the road macht snell.

"Innova makes a digital OBD-II for a 100 that rivals a few top end models."
I'll put that in my book but time being think I'll forego spending the bucks because what little I would use it not worth the investment. Besides, I have two parts houses that do it for free. ;-)

Hi ALL
Just yesterday got the P1131 code on my 1997 Ford Taurus Wagon
Should I just go ahead and chnage PVC, grommet and sensor?
Thanks in advance:)))

The PCV and associated grommet are usually considered part of routine maintenance, so the relatively small investment would not be a waste of money, even if it doesn't solve your code issue. Be certain to inspect the PCV hoses while you're at it and replace with appropriate PCV hose if you find any bad spots. Don't use fuel or vacuum line as replacements.

-Rod

"Should I just go ahead and change PVC, grommet and sensor?"
For a measley five bucks it's certainly worth a try. I had checked & rechecked the lines four or five times and could find nothing I thought was a leak until seasonalskier said replace the valve and grommet. I was surprised at how loose the valve fit in the grommet, but new grommet we had to sort'a wiggle the valve down in it so it was a much tighter fit.

I've put about 80 miles on it and the CEL hasn't come back on so hoping the PCV was the problem. I owe seasonalskier a cold six pack because I was just before replacing the O2 sensor $53. for the part plus labor.

Please let us know if the new valve and grommet cures your CEL and I'll keep you posted on my CEL. By the way, to clear the CEL, take the negative post loose from the battery for a few minutes then hook it back up. The computer then has to re-learn how to idle, shift points, etc, so it may run a little rough at first.

Yours is a 97 and if the MAF hasn't been cleaned you should review this thread: Clean it first because they're over $100. new. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=604596

Shorod: I knew about PCV and all I ever did was clean them but henceforth every 20K miles I'll put in a new valve & grommet.

Was looking for a MAF for a 97 and found this:
I have read that there is a problem with the Mass Air Flow sensor on these vehicles. If this is a possibility, where is it located and can it be cleaned?
A. Yes, there is a TSB on this.
Article No.: 98-23-10
Date: 11/23/98
Mass Air Flow (MAF) - Sensor Contamination
It is a rather lengthy document, a copy of which you may be able to get from your dealer, but after all is said and done, there is no procedure for cleaning the MAF, Ford says it has to be replaced.
And from the symptoms you describe, it sounds like it is the cause of your problem. And just for informational purposes for those who are reading this. The affected vehicles are:
Ford:
1990-97 Thunderbird
1990-99 Mustang, Taurus SHO
1991-99 Crown Victoria, Escort, Taurus
1992-94 Tempo
1993-97 Probe
1995-99 Contour

Problems a bad MAF can cause:


Lack of Power.
Spark Knock/Detonation.
Buck/Jerk.
Hesitation/Surge on Acceleration.
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated. DTCs P0171, P0172, P0174, P0175 may be stored in memory.DI DTCs

181, 189 (Fuel system lean, Bank 1 or 2)
179, 188 (Fuel system rich, Bank 1 or 2)
171, 172, 173 (HO2S11 lack of switching, Bank 1)
175, 176, 177 (HO2S21 lack of switching, Bank 2)
184, 185 (MAF higher/lower than expected)
186, 187 (Injector pulse width higher/lower than expected)

OBDII DTCs

P0171, P0174 (Fuel system lean, Bank 1 or 2)
P0172, P0175 (Fuel system rich, Bank 1 or 2)
P1130, P1131, P1132 (HO2S11 lack of switching, Bank 1)
P1150, P1151, P1152 (HO2S21 lack of switching, Bank 2)http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/z/U/42153441.gif

http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/z/U/42153441.gif Sorry for the two drawings, my error cutting and pasting. Anyway, hope all this helps but try the new valve and grommet first and maybe someone can tell you if you can clean your MAF. Mines an 03 and your MAF is nothing like the 03's.

Thank you for all advices
I'll let you know the results:)))

Thank you for all advices
I'll let you know the results:))) Good deal and I hope it's fixed.
Been driving mine a good bit and CEL still hasn't come back and before it would have come back on in a day or so. :worshippy

Good deal and I hope it's fixed.
Been driving mine a good bit and CEL still hasn't come back and before it would have come back on in a day or so. :worshippy
We checked the voltage (it works)

Ok I've opened the hood checked leaks (found nothing) opened the sensor connections checked ohms (ok)

After some driving error disappeared:))) it self

Will continue to watch:))))))))))))))))))))))))))

"After some driving error disappeared:smile:)) it self." Good On ya'! If the computer gets happy, happy, happy it turns the CEL off so you should be good to go. Mine hasn't coime back on yet either. :grinyes:

I live on the SC coast near HIlton Head and now here comes Ernesto keeping life interesting. Saying we'll get 40 to 75 MPH sustained winds and LOTS of rain. Bad thing is, the action starts at dusk Wednesday and intensifies all night long and I hate being in one of those in the dark. Got my trusty 120V generator gassed up and we're ready for the worst, so about all we can do is hunker down n' let 'er blow.

CEL came on yesterday afternoon so guess I'll get the O2 sensor replaced. Part is $51. and guy said he'd do it for $50. so that blows $100. Pepperionis.

The storm was a big flop and all we got was 2" of rain and 20 - 35 mph wind gusts.

:grinyes: I looked at the Bank 1 Sensor 1 and it's on top behind the engine next to the firewall sticking up like a sore thumb. Went to Auto Zone and Bosh Sensor $41. and change and rent on the removal tool set $20. It took me 15 minutes to change it out and I used a half inch 6" extension and ratchet and it's a piece of cake. So, I saved about $58. bucks on that deal and I can get me a six pack of O'Douls and enjoy the afternoon. :bananasmi
FYI - Ford dealer wanted $129. just for labor to change the sensor which did not include the sensor cost and I changed it in 15 minutes. Hmmmm . . .
It does cause one to wonder . . . .

EDIT Saturday 9-9-06. Drove 235 miles in five days and the CEL hasn't come back on. Thanks for everyones help getting this aggrivating problem resolved and, thanks to this great forum, my total cost out of pocket for the PCV, grommet and O2 sensor was about $47. and an hour or so of my time. :-)