Hello everyone, I hope someone here can shed some light my way. I have a 98 GTP 140,000 miles no mods just the little wives car. I am battling a fuel problem that just wont go away. It all started she drove to work running great came out at end of day would start up and run for 3-5 seconds then die. I checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and watched as the fuel pressure dropped rapidly. So I replaced the fuel pump, and fuel filter even drained the tank and towel dried (just in case of contaniments) no help at all. I then replaced the Crank Position Sensor and wooo whooo it will start and run smoothy except for the fact that the fuel pressure gradualy drops from the startup pressure of 40-44 psi 10 psi (before stalling) in about 30 seconds. The odd thing is if I pump the throttle a little the fuel pressure will rise and the car will stay running. Just out of curosity I put the old fuel pump back in the tank and it does the same thing. I do not get any codes or lights that I could hope to follow up on. I did make a boo boo when I originally removed the fuel tank, there is a EVAP hose that connects to the middle line of the sending unit that then connects to a "t" (one of those great GM plastic vaccum type "'t's") which connects to the other sending unit type thing in the tank and the charcol emmissons canister. I broke this T and since GM wants $125.00 for the line set (cant relace just the "t") I wanted to make sure she ran before I dumped money out for a overpriced piece o plastic. Since I am not getting any codes and this broken piece is emissions related I am doubtful this is causing my problem.

ANY idaes or help would be appreciated.

check the pressure regulator

Fuel pressure regulator is a possibility. Remove the vacuum line to it and see if there is any fuel in it indicating a ruptured diaphragm.

However, also you could have a bad fuel pump resistor which is a common problem with GTPs. Tecnhically, the L67 GTP has a two speed fuel pump. The fuel pump resistor is part of the hi-speed fuel pump relay. There are two relays in the engine compartment fuse box. Fuel pump relay and fuel pump hi-speed relay. So I would check that out.

See link below:

http://rmcgp.clubgp.com/fpresistor.html

In most cases, the symptoms were that the car will start as normal, idle for 2-3 seconds, and promptly shut off.

Thanks guys,
I will check the regulator and try bypassing the relay.
Keith

Okay I tried jumping the fuel pump relay, no change. I pulled the vaccum line from the regulator "actually a T vaccum connector that also leads to something at the other end (I believe it has to do with the air intake) of the fuel rail on the same side of the engine (regulator on passenger side front of motor other thing on drivers side fornt of motor) and I did not see or even smell any gas of course the hole is only 1/8" so kinda hard to see into. The car has not bee up and running on the street in about 2 weeks but I have been running in the garage and assume that would be enough to see or smell gas there if it were present....right? Since the regulator is $50-60 at autozone and needs to be ordered I did not just go ahead and replace it yet. If you have any other ideas I would be very happy to check them as I said before I am just running out of ideas. I will probably stop on monday and order the regulator or try to find one in stock somewhere.

Okay I tried jumping the fuel pump relay, no change. I pulled the vaccum line from the regulator "actually a T vaccum connector that also leads to something at the other end (I believe it has to do with the air intake) of the fuel rail on the same side of the engine (regulator on passenger side front of motor other thing on drivers side fornt of motor) and I did not see or even smell any gas of course the hole is only 1/8" so kinda hard to see into. The car has not bee up and running on the street in about 2 weeks but I have been running in the garage and assume that would be enough to see or smell gas there if it were present....right? Since the regulator is $50-60 at autozone and needs to be ordered I did not just go ahead and replace it yet. If you have any other ideas I would be very happy to check them as I said before I am just running out of ideas. I will probably stop on monday and order the regulator or try to find one in stock somewhere.

Yeah, the fuel pressure regulator can be expensive. The adjustable FPR like the Casper I have costs alot more.

If the diaphragm is ruptured you will most likely have fuel in the vacuum line from the FPR to the throttle body. Are both the fuel pressure and return lines to the fuel injectors rails OK?

Out of curiosity what is the fuel pressure reading at ignition to on but engine not running. This is the fuel pump prime mode which lasts about two seconds.

Another way to test the FPR is start the engine (hopefully you can keep the engine running long enough). Record the reading. Then disconnect the vacuum line at the FPR while engine is still running. Put your finger over the hole on the disconnected vacuum line when you do this. Observe reading. If the difference between the two readings is greater than 7 psi then the FPR is bad.

fuel pressure regulator is a common part of these cars. price is $105 from GM pt number 24506988

The prime pressure is 50 psi then drops to 44psi after 2 seconds or so if I leave the guage on and the key on the pressure holds at 44 psi if I turn the key off it stays there also. I tried disconnecting the vaccum line while it is running there really was not much of a difference that I could tell. the only way to keep the car running is to "pump" the throttle. I guess I will just have to order a FPR and give that a try unless there is something else that you guys may know of. I dont remeber if I mentioned that as soon asthe car stalls the fuel pressure is right back at the 44psi. :crying:

:screwy: I have a 98 GTP with 140 K miles and am have the same fuel pressure drop problem. I have changed both relays, installed a new fuel pump, changed the fuel pump regulator, and still the same problem. Can anyone help??
God Bless, Gene

The prime pressure is 50 psi then drops to 44psi after 2 seconds or so if I leave the guage on and the key on the pressure holds at 44 psi if I turn the key off it stays there also. I tried disconnecting the vaccum line while it is running there really was not much of a difference that I could tell. the only way to keep the car running is to "pump" the throttle. I guess I will just have to order a FPR and give that a try unless there is something else that you guys may know of. I dont remeber if I mentioned that as soon asthe car stalls the fuel pressure is right back at the 44psi. :crying:

You can try the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) but I am not convinced it is bad based on the work you have done to date and your symptoms but you never know. As least you could rule it out.

At fuel prime prime the initial spike at 50 is good and the 44 psi with ignition left on is good. This is what I get on my GTP with engine running and the vacuum line removed - 53 psi. That is with my adjustable fuel pressure regulator set for stock settings. I show 19 - 20 in-hg of engine vacuum at the vacuum line that goes to the FPR. At any time with engine running and vacuum line off/plugged to the FPR do you get fuel pressure in a range of 48 - 55 psi?

The most prevalent symptom of a flaky FPR is hard starting and long cranking period before the engine fires up. The primary job of a FPR is to maintain fuel and pressure in the injector rails to help engine starting and not allow fuel to bleed off to the return going back to the fuel tank.

In your first post you mentioned a problem with evaporative emissions lines. Exactly what is messed up? Although you are not getting any DTC error codes or SES/CEL light an evaporative emissions problem cause cause the engine to stall, especially if there is a vacuum leak. Also, what condition is the fuel return line at the fuel pump pod? There are three lines at the fuel pump pod. Fuel pressure, fuel return and tank pressure going to the pressure switch used to test evaporative emissions.

Have you checked into the possibility of a bad MAF sensor? Try cleaning the hot wire elements with electrical contact cleaner. You can disconnect the electrical connector at the MAF to see what happens. The PCM will recognize the input missing and switch to pre-programed MAF/VAF tables based on engine rpm and TPS setting.

How about cleaning the throttle body with carb or throttle body cleaner and don't forget the IAC valve to include seat at the throttle body.

:screwy: I have a 98 GTP with 140 K miles and am have the same fuel pressure drop problem. I have changed both relays, installed a new fuel pump, changed the fuel pump regulator, and still the same problem. Can anyone help??
God Bless, Gene

I see you decided to join the bandwagon.

What are your fuel pressure readings and what driveability symptoms?

It must be frustrating changing parts like the fuel pump, relays and fuel pressure regulator only to find out you have the same problem. Not to mention a waste of money.

At initial prime, the pressure is at 55. Then after 2-3 seconds, the pressure drops to 10 and the engine stalls. by pumping the gas it does run longer but it runs rough starving for fuel. I spoke to a tech that works at a local dealer, and he said he would have to trace the problem on a schematic.

At initial prime, the pressure is at 55. Then after 2-3 seconds, the pressure drops to 10 and the engine stalls. by pumping the gas it does run longer but it runs rough starving for fuel. I spoke to a tech that works at a local dealer, and he said he would have to trace the problem on a schematic.

In your case it looks like the problem will need to be troubleshot because it may be a wiring problem. I see the relays were changed but how about the fuel pump resistor. The second relay is the fuel pump hi-speed relay and the fuel pump resistor works in conjunction with that relay. You can perform a visual inspection by removing the passenger headlight and check the condition of it and the wiring. Also, you could try a bypass procedure.

The wiring diagram the tech is talking about is no mystery and consists of one simple page out of the Grand Prix service manual.

In your first post you mentioned a problem with evaporative emissions lines. Exactly what is messed up? Although you are not getting any DTC error codes or SES/CEL light an evaporative emissions problem cause cause the engine to stall, especially if there is a vacuum leak. Also, what condition is the fuel return line at the fuel pump pod? There are three lines at the fuel pump pod. Fuel pressure, fuel return and tank pressure going to the pressure switch used to test evaporative emissions.

DOH!!!!
The line that is broken is the middle line that would be the tank pressure that goes to the evap system. the line leaves the fuel pod as a small 1/4" line then "t's" into a larger 1/2" line that goes to the other pod in the tank and to the evap canister. I had asked the GM parts guy about it and he told me it would just throw a code, but if this keeps pressure in the tank which in turn allows the fuel pump to not run at full tilt 100% of the time that would explain why when I "pump" the throttle it will stay running as the PCM is probably telling the pump to get with it and send some fuel. I suppose I will try fixing what I broke then look for others if not the problem. bad thing is they only sell that "t" thats broke as a line set of all 3 lines @ $110

If you would like I can email you the electrical fuel schematic I got from alldata. For what it is worth I think 1 of my main problems from the get go was the Crank position sensor after replacing that I at least get fuel pressure other than the prime and whatever the car could vaccum out of the line before it died.


Good thing working on cars is fun.......right!!!! I sure do miss my old Nova and chevelle.

This problem sounds like a bad Fuel pump resistor to me, one of the parts bnaylor mentioned that I don't see either of you (fro10987 or 7futures) mentioning testing/bypassing yet.

This problem sounds like a bad Fuel pump resistor to me, one of the parts bnaylor mentioned that I don't see either of you (fro10987 or 7futures) mentioning testing/bypassing yet.

Check post #5 for fro10987.

On 7futures at least give him a chance to do something based on my suggestion.

wouldn't "pumping the throttle", which fro says will keep his car running, cause the PCM to switch between the hi and lo speed settings? Also, could the problem be related to the oil pressure switch, or would by-passing the relay eliminate it as well? Since our cars don't have oil presure guages, it can be hard to diagnose a drop in oil pressure signal from a faulty oil pressure switch.

Rich, lets not bring up the oil pressure switch issue and it has no bearing. It does not cut off fuel or affect the fuel circuits in a '97 and up Grand Prix...period!

These are are two different problems and I believe fro is on the right path and his troubleshooting technique looks very good.

BTW - I'll let you and Maxwedge duke this one out.

This problem sounds like a bad Fuel pump resistor to me, one of the parts bnaylor mentioned that I don't see either of you (fro10987 or 7futures) mentioning testing/bypassing yet.[/quote]

Actually I did try the bypass by jumping the relay and as I stated in an earlier post that did not change anything. Unless I missed something in the explination of the bypass.

I do want to be jumping the fuel pump relay correct?

This problem sounds like a bad Fuel pump resistor to me, one of the parts bnaylor mentioned that I don't see either of you (fro10987 or 7futures) mentioning testing/bypassing yet.

Actually I did try the bypass by jumping the relay and as I stated in an earlier post that did not change anything. Unless I missed something in the explination of the bypass.

I do want to be jumping the fuel pump relay correct?

Correct. Starting to doubt your sanity?

For a 1998 GTP you do the bypass on relay #14 which is the fuel pump relay per the well known procedure I provided to you earlier which is self-explanatory. The relay above #14 is #15 which is the fuel pump speed control relay. You leave #15 alone.

So if you did the bypass on relay #14 (Fuel Pump) then you did good. :bigthumb:

Hopefully, we have resolved the confusion. Good luck!

Sanity what is that??:uhoh: Thanks for the reality check..
I ordered the lines that I broke and will try that. I suppose if that does not do it then I will need to maybe look at the resistor.

Sanity what is that??:uhoh: Thanks for the reality check..
I ordered the lines that I broke and will try that. I suppose if that does not do it then I will need to maybe look at the resistor.

It would not hurt to look at it. Based on the location it is subject to the elements and corrosion. But here is the problem. If the fuel pump relay is bypassed properly and your problem goes away then it is the fuel pump resistor. If the problem is still there after bypass then you have another problem and probably another case of questioning your sanity. :lol: BTDT.

Hang in there. Good luck!

For a 1998 GTP you do the bypass on relay #14 which is the fuel pump relay per the well known procedure I provided to you earlier which is self-explanatory. The relay above #14 is #15 which is the fuel pump speed control relay. You leave #15 alone.

So if you did the bypass on relay #14 (Fuel Pump) then you did good. :bigthumb:

Hopefully, we have resolved the confusion. Good luck!

That's basically what I was getting at, making sure he tested the correct relay to bypass the resistor too. Nice clarification Bob.

This problem sounds like a bad Fuel pump resistor to me, one of the parts bnaylor mentioned that I don't see either of you (fro10987 or 7futures) mentioning testing/bypassing yet.

Hi There, I tried jumping the fuel resistor and guess what. The engine RUNS:rofl: You guys are great. The resistor will cost about $35.00. I wish I would have found this forum sooner. It would have saved me over $220.00. If anybody needs a spare relay or used fuel pump. Please let me know at future@hciwireless.net. I would sell the fuel pump for $100.00 and the relay for $20.00.:thumbsup: God Bless, 7futures

Sanity what is that??:uhoh: Thanks for the reality check..
I ordered the lines that I broke and will try that. I suppose if that does not do it then I will need to maybe look at the resistor.

Hey, I broke that same y-connector:frown: So I ground down the male end some and drilled out the female end just slightly bigger than the male end. Then with a little super glue, it was good as new.:)

Hey, I broke that same y-connector:frown: So I ground down the male end some and drilled out the female end just slightly bigger than the male end. Then with a little super glue, it was good as new.:smile:

Hi There, I tried jumping the fuel resistor and guess what. The engine RUNS:rofl: You guys are great. The resistor will cost about $35.00. I wish I would have found this forum sooner. It would have saved me over $220.00. If anybody needs a spare relay or used fuel pump. Please let me know at future@hciwireless.net. I would sell the fuel pump for $100.00 and the relay for $20.00.:thumbsup: God Bless, 7futures

Congrats 7future glad to hear you are running


I am still up on the blocks:disappoin I did replace the evap line set that I broke the "t" in and am still in the same place. Car primes good and will start but then starts dropping fuel pressure till it chokes off and dies. If I pump the pedal the fuel pressure increases then starts dropping again.:frown:
:evillol: :evillol: I wonder if I connect a positive inside the tank and add a ground if that will help:evillol: :evillol:

I suppose my next step is the FPR (fuel pump regulator) any secrets to changing this puppy. I eyed it pretty closely and did not see any fittings that look as if they disconnect. I figure once I have the new one I will be able to figure it out, but any help is appreciated.

!!!!!!!!!FOR SALE CHEAP!!!!!!!!!

1998 Pontiac GTP 135,000 , RED with grey leather, BRAND NEW FUEL System
needs love to run:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

I suppose my next step is the FPR (fuel pump regulator) any secrets to changing this puppy. I eyed it pretty closely and did not see any fittings that look as if they disconnect. I figure once I have the new one I will be able to figure it out, but any help is appreciated.



The FPR is very easy to replace. Look carefully from the top and you will see one single c-clip retainer that holds the FPR into the fuel rail and bracket. Remove c-clip and then grab a hold and pull out.

This is how it looks removed.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fpr.jpg

BTW - You could remove it and perform a better inspection of it.

And you could check the actual voltage getting to the fuel pump. Maybe the wiring from the engine to the rear (fuel tank) has a problem.

I will go pull the FPR out now and take a look at it.

As far as the wiring I doubt "praying:rofl: " that is not an issue as when the car dies the fuel pressure is right back up to the 44-48psi it just seems as if it is losing the fuel somewhere. but you never know till it is tested at least 3 times with the same answer each time.........

I will go pull the FPR out now and take a look at it.

As far as the wiring I doubt "praying:rofl: " that is not an issue as when the car dies the fuel pressure is right back up to the 44-48psi it just seems as if it is losing the fuel somewhere. but you never know till it is tested at least 3 times with the same answer each time.........

Hopefully it is the FPR. Too bad your problem wasn't something simple like the resistor.

Also, note that we have 33# (Called 36#) rated fuel injectors in a GTP. If one or more is flaky like stuck open it will definitely cause a fuel pressure drop and the engine stalling. Just another area to look at just in case the FPR is found OK. Good luck!

Also, note that we have 33# (Called 36#) rated fuel injectors in a GTP. If one or more is flaky like stuck open it will definitely cause a fuel pressure drop and the engine stalling. Just another area to look at just in case the FPR is found OK. Good luck!

If this was the case wouldn't the car run rough or at least put out some black smoke? Is there any easy way to tell if the injectors are working properly?
I ordered a FPR and it will be in the store Mon PM so I will stick that in there say a blessing/prayer the give er a turn. Will either post my joy or sorrow afterward.:screwy:

Congrats 7future glad to hear you are running


I am still up on the blocks:disappoin I did replace the evap line set that I broke the "t" in and am still in the same place. Car primes good and will start but then starts dropping fuel pressure till it chokes off and dies. If I pump the pedal the fuel pressure increases then starts dropping again.:frown:
:evillol: :evillol: I wonder if I connect a positive inside the tank and add a ground if that will help:evillol: :evillol:

I suppose my next step is the FPR (fuel pump regulator) any secrets to changing this puppy. I eyed it pretty closely and did not see any fittings that look as if they disconnect. I figure once I have the new one I will be able to figure it out, but any help is appreciated.

!!!!!!!!!FOR SALE CHEAP!!!!!!!!!

1998 Pontiac GTP 135,000 , RED with grey leather, BRAND NEW FUEL System
needs love to run:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Hi there Fro10987, Did you ever jump the resister wire like bnaylor suggested? It looks like the low windshield level senser wire because it came from the harness and then went below the washer tank. It looks like a long white connector that you see when you pull out the pass. head light assm. Just jump the wire connector that comes from the harness. I'll pray for you:worshippy

Hi there Fro10987, Did you ever jump the resister wire like bnaylor suggested? It looks like the low windshield level senser wire because it came from the harness and then went below the washer tank. It looks like a long white connector that you see when you pull out the pass. head light assm. Just jump the wire connector that comes from the harness. I'll pray for you:worshippy

Jumping the resistor and bypassing the relay are one in the same.

I replaced the FPR and still the same :banghead: old same old :banghead: :mad:
I do not think I have injector stuck open as when I turn the key off my fuel pressure does not bleed down and if there were an injector open I would think this would cause the pressure to bleed off once the key was turned off.

I have even went as far as swaping the original fuel pump back in o see if maybe I had a bum pump but both pumps do the same thing. and as I stated before I believe my original problem was mainly with the crankshaft position sensor.

ANY NEW IDEAS or do I buy some lube and take her to the dealer:eek:

Jumping the resistor and bypassing the relay are one in the same.

I replaced the FPR and still the same :banghead: old same old :banghead: :mad:
I do not think I have injector stuck open as when I turn the key off my fuel pressure does not bleed down and if there were an injector open I would think this would cause the pressure to bleed off once the key was turned off.

I have even went as far as swaping the original fuel pump back in o see if maybe I had a bum pump but both pumps do the same thing. and as I stated before I believe my original problem was mainly with the crankshaft position sensor.

ANY NEW IDEAS or do I buy some lube and take her to the dealer:eek:

What a bummer! I did not believe the FPR was your problem based on the symptoms but you had to rule it out. Question: What is the lowest fuel pressure reading you are getting at the time of problem?

The fuel pressure declines steadily from startup of 44psi and at about 10 psi the car will die. this is in amatter of about 3-5 seconds. As I mentioned though if I pump the accelerator the pressure will increase to between 40-60 psi depending on how hard I hit the gas.

The fuel pressure declines steadily from startup of 44psi and at about 10 psi the car will die. this is in amatter of about 3-5 seconds. As I mentioned though if I pump the accelerator the pressure will increase to between 40-60 psi depending on how hard I hit the gas.

So it is dropping to a low of 10 psi. It is a head scratcher because it sure sounds like a fuel pump resistor problem less the pressure going back up when you pump the accelerator. Providing that all wiring is confirmed good and all components in the fuel pump circuits are OK about all I can think of is the PCM module itself. It does control the switching. Also, you might consider checking wiring between the PCM and back to the two relays in the engine compartment fuse box. Is the PCM stock and have you ever had any work done on it?

did you do the bend pin 85 trick to see if u can bypass the fuel pump resistor?
goto here for a pic
http://www.scacgp.com/mods/fuel_fix/relays.jpg

did you do the bend pin 85 trick to see if u can bypass the fuel pump resistor?
goto here for a pic
http://www.scacgp.com/mods/fuel_fix/relays.jpg

He claims he did but used the one in the following link.

http://rmcgp.clubgp.com/fpresistor.html

It worked for the other guy that posted here and had the same problem. One down, one to go.

he could try this one, just bend the pin, no need to add another wire on there

now Im confused. both diagrams show jumping a different relay. I did not try bending the pin on relay #15 which is the fuel pump speed relay. I did bypass the #14 relay by jumping a wire from #30-#87. Do I need to try again???

now Im confused. both diagrams show jumping a different relay. I did not try bending the pin on relay #15 which is the fuel pump speed relay. I did bypass the #14 relay by jumping a wire from #30-#87. Do I need to try again???

Both procedures will give the same result by determining whether the fuel pump resistor is bad. But bending the pin on relay #15 is the easier of the two procedures. Also, you can bypass the resistor directly as mentioned by the guy (7futures) that found his problem if you've already removed the headlamp or starting looking for it. The resistor mod calls for moving it from under the fender area to the engine compartment.

Try it again to rule out human error.

BTW - Remember either fix is just a temporary remedy. The fix is to get a new fuel pump resistor. It is not a good idea to run the fuel pump in high speed all the time. The low speed circuit has a purpose to allow excess fuel that is not needed back into the return system back to the fuel tank.

wouldnt hurt to try it. why not?

wouldnt hurt to try it. why not?
I am willing to try anything at least a couple of times. I will try bending the pin on the relay #15 (fuel pump speed relay) and see if that does it.
I did take out the headlight already but I did not see any thing other than lighting wires. I will have to look again I even put it up on the lift and looked from the bottom still did not see it. is it behind the washer fluid bottle?

I tried bending the pin #85 over and the car actually ran for a minute. I will pick up a new resistor tommorrow and put it in. I cant believe I botched that bypass. When I did that I ran a jumper wire from #30 to #87 on relay #14.
Is a resistor from autozone sufficent or is this one of those that needs to be a high quality item?

Resistor is by the washer bottle. Why did it only run for a minute? Or did you turn it off?

Like Bob mentioned, did you only let it run for a minute and shut it off because it ran longer than before, or did it die again after a minute? Go to a dealer on the resistor. It's not that expensive, and I wouldn't trust a Wells (or whatever off-brand AZ sells). Bob, you got a headache yet?, this has sure been a head scratcher, that's for sure.

Like Bob mentioned, did you only let it run for a minute and shut it off because it ran longer than before, or did it die again after a minute? Go to a dealer on the resistor. It's not that expensive, and I wouldn't trust a Wells (or whatever off-brand AZ sells). Bob, you got a headache yet?, this has sure been a head scratcher, that's for sure.

Headache? No not really but fro10987 probably does. :lol:

I agree stay with the GM OEM part. They run around $37.00 or so but I would relocate it to the engine compartment. There was a GM TSB out on it.

I just finished the bottle of tylenol......


I did shut it off after it ran for about a minute at idle as it has not done that in what seems like forever and I really do not want to chance overworking anything. I would rather spend $40 on a new resistor being pretty sure that is the problem than (with my luck on this one) burn out a PCM or fuel pump or who knows what else.

It is really tough being human and making those "human errors" at the wrong time:screwy: .

I will get that in tonight and let you know for sure. I do appreciate all of your help and ideas on this nightmare.

We've all been there Fro, we just want the good news that you found the issue and it's fixed, keep us informed.

Well that seems to be the problem. :grinyes: Got the new one on and took er for a spin down the road:grinyes: . Still a little gun shy:eek: so I will take er for a couple spins when I know I can get a ride home. But I think the original problem was the cranshaft position sensor and the resistor either was on its way out or went at the same time. Whichever I am very pleased to say I do believe it is working. I still do not get why when I jumped the pump relay it did not run as it did when I jumped the fuel pump speed control relay. :screwy:

Again I really want to thank you guys for your continued help and patience, maybe someday in the future I can pay it forward. Thank someone for the Internet!!!!!