My aunt has a 1988 Caprice Classic Brougham. My aunt (not the brightest in the world) lost her only set of keys (actually thinks someone stole them:screwy:). I don't remember how many times I told her to make copies. She claimed she couldn't afford them, but now she has to dish out 12 bucks for a new ignition. My question is, whats the best way to remove the old ignition without the original key, to put in a new one? I read somewhere that someone said to drill out the center, I'm not exactly sure what that would accomplish. Any information would be appreciated cause she's a sitting duck until she gets the new one put in. She has considered a locksmith, but I'm not sure what kind of costs she'd be into and she's not a rich woman. Please let me know what to do, thanks alot.

My aunt has a 1988 Caprice Classic Brougham. My aunt (not the brightest in the world) lost her only set of keys (actually thinks someone stole them:screwy:). I don't remember how many times I told her to make copies. She claimed she couldn't afford them, but now she has to dish out 12 bucks for a new ignition. My question is, whats the best way to remove the old ignition without the original key, to put in a new one? I read somewhere that someone said to drill out the center, I'm not exactly sure what that would accomplish. Any information would be appreciated cause she's a sitting duck until she gets the new one put in. She has considered a locksmith, but I'm not sure what kind of costs she'd be into and she's not a rich woman. Please let me know what to do, thanks alot.

You have to replace the lock cylinder. You were right in thinking that drilling it out will do nothing - it will only make a mess and possibly put metal shavings down into the steering column.

The lock cylinder replacement ritual involves removing the steering wheel, then the antitheft plate, then the horn contact/hub and spring, and then the turn signal switch and cam assy making sure you understand how the cam interfaces with the lever - once the turn signal switch/cam is out, you will see a flush/countersunk Torx-headed screw on the upper right quadrant of the column. Remove this screw (it's either a T-15 or T-20 - I'm thinking it's a T-20), and the cylinder pulls right out. Simply push the new one in, making sure that it's in the same position as the old one (i.e. the 'Lock' position). Don't try to force it in if it doesn't easily drop in - this can cause more problems and larger headaches as now you're looking at further disassembling the column to replace the gear and possibly rack. Put the screw back in, then reassemble the top end of the column in reverse of removal.

silicon pretty much nailed the procedure. Do be aware you will need a steering wheel puller and a lock plate removal tool. Both can usually be purchased quite reasonably at a parts store, or can be rented at major chain style parts stores.

You have to replace the lock cylinder. You were right in thinking that drilling it out will do nothing - it will only make a mess and possibly put metal shavings down into the steering column.

The lock cylinder replacement ritual involves removing the steering wheel, then the antitheft plate, then the horn contact/hub and spring, and then the turn signal switch and cam assy making sure you understand how the cam interfaces with the lever - once the turn signal switch/cam is out, you will see a flush/countersunk Torx-headed screw on the upper right quadrant of the column. Remove this screw (it's either a T-15 or T-20 - I'm thinking it's a T-20), and the cylinder pulls right out. Simply push the new one in, making sure that it's in the same position as the old one (i.e. the 'Lock' position). Don't try to force it in if it doesn't easily drop in - this can cause more problems and larger headaches as now you're looking at further disassembling the column to replace the gear and possibly rack. Put the screw back in, then reassemble the top end of the column in reverse of removal.

Thanks so much for the details guys, I'll give it a try.