superuser

looking for any information from mazda corporate on changing camber. Most OEM's have a TSB on what to do with a car that doesn't meet alignment specs. Since camber is not adjustable by any normal means, there might be a TSB somewhere on what to do with cars that have been in a crash, etc...

the reason being, I would like to be able to change camber on my 3 (within the factory spec), but per SCCA rules the procedure has be authorized by the car manufacturer. So if anyone is working at the dealership, or working for mazda, can you let me know if such procedure exists?

Flash75

The Mazda shop manuals I have seen for front wheel drive cars have provisions for a small camber or castor correction. It's done by rotating the strut mounting block. The corrections are all + changes and change the settings only 30'. You are probably looking to add more negative camber, the difference side to side cannot exceed 1* 30' according to the shop manual for my Protege 5. The only problem is the tolerances are so wide that you almost have to have some damaged or bent components to be out of tolerance. Most accident damaged cars are sent out to a body shop with a frame alignment machine. The software for the frame alignment machine determines what adjustments to make. Most Mazda dealers wouldn't own a frame alignment machine, unless they have a very big body shop. I don't work for Mazda, but I would think TSB's would not be issued for front end alignment problems due to an accident. I suspect they rely on the alignment machine operator to get the suspension pick up points correct. I don't think Mazda has any parts for camber correction beyond the normal specifications. Most camber correction parts are sold in the aftermarket and wouldn't show up in a Mazda publication. I could be wrong, but no one from Mazda has tried answering your question.

Clifton

superuser

Thanks for the info... I think the 3 has a similar front suspension setup to Pro5, but i haven't been able to find the "strut mounting block" in the drawings...

can you help me look for the part you are referring to in here:

http://www.icestormdesign.com/mwcc/m...html#wp1025486

PS: erm, just saw this in the link:
i guess i better print this page and take it to my mechanic...

Flash75

The 3 front suspension isn't set up as the Protege 5. The mounting block is item 10 in the drawing, it uses only 3 bolts, the P 5 has four studs in the strut mounting block. The note about the caster and camber implies the hole for the strut shaft may be bigger than the shaft. They say it should be centered if castor or camber is off. If you want more negative camber, you want to have the strut shaft as far as possible toward the center of the car. On some Nissan's I have owned I made some camber changes by loosening the strut plate mounts and the lower strut to spindle mounting bolts. I needed less negative camber so I let the suspension hang while I tightened everything to spec. If you want more negative camber you can loosen the mounting points and tighten everything with the car sitting on the floor. Before you tighten roll the car forward several feet to allow the suspension to settle, you can also bounce the bumpers to help settle the car, then tighten.

All the little things you can do will add up to enough change to keep you ahead of someone who does nothing.

Clifton