Here’s a ‘how-to’ on cleaning your multi-function switch.
Failing multi-function switch symptoms include clicking sounds and flickering instrument-cluster lights—often turn-signals. In my case, the daytime running lamps were flickering and clicking. I initially thought it was a faulty relay. It seems that over time, the dielectric grease inside the switch, thins out and runs, creating false connections between the copper contacts within the switch.
This post will also be helpful for:
a) safely disconnecting your airbag
b) changing your ignition switch (common on ‘97’s)
c) hazard switch
d) removal of the steering column trim
e) removal of instrument cluster bezel
f) removal of sound insulator panels.
Cleaning the contacts is recommended before replacing the switch. Why? The switch is approx $200.
*NOTE: I didn’t take the pics while taking things apart, I took them as I was putting things back together—so, don’t let that confuse you.
*NOTE: this is a good time to take a toothbrush and brush the dust and crud out of all the trim pieces
Here are the tools you’ll need:
ratchet and extension, 7mm and 4mm socket, T25 and T10 torx, T25 torx bit (this is a MUST unless you want to pull your whole steering wheel and airbag), Q-Tip (15mm), piece of wood (yes! a piece of wood--I used an old hammer handle that had been cut off), hammer, 10mm wrench, ¼ inch wrench, Phillips screwdriver
the T25 torx bit is a MUST because it’s length is short and you’ll need it to fit in a very tight space. A ¼ inch wrench fit my bit perfectly to turn it.
STEP 1:
a) roll down driver’s side window.
b) disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
c) remove the airbag fuse from the fusebox.
fuse box
STEP 2:
Using the 7mm and the T25 torx, begin to remove:
a) both the left and center, black sound-insulator panels
b) the interior-colored knee-bolster under the steering column
c) your interior-colored consumed tobacco-product deposit canister (ashtray)
NOTE: Remember which screws go where. Remember how the trim pieces fit together and overlap.
NOTE: Underneath by the E-brake pedal, you may need to remove screws and pay-attention to your OBD-II socket AND your remote door-lock if applicable (you’ll figure it out when you see it)
NOTE: I never needed to remove the E-brake release handle. I just let it hang there.
left black sound-insulator panel
interior colored knee-bolster
center black plastic sound-insulator panel
once you remove the screws, just let the knee-bolster hang there. There is no need to completely remove it. (This pic shows the knee-bolster hanging. The pic was taken further along in the removal process).
STEP 3:
Remove the instrument-cluster bezel with Phillips screwdriver. There are two screws. Disconnect 4WD switch if applicable. Gently tug at it and the bezel will simply pop out. Use your tilt-steering if necessary to pull the bezel out.
note the ‘friction clips’
4WD switch
There’s no need to disconnect any switch on the left-side dash (headlights, defrost, rear-wiper, dimmer, etc. Simply pull the bezel off the steering column and move it out of the way. I used my door to support it while keeping it out of the way.
another angle
STEP 4:
Disconnect the airbag. There’s an orange safety and then, the bright-yellow clip. It’s tricky to get to, but, with persistence, it will disconnect.
Here’s the bright-yellow airbag connection
Here it is with the orange safety removed
now pull the connector … (pic shows connector removed)
STEP 5:
Remove two screws from the lower steering column plastic cover. The middle hole doesn’t do anything. Use your tilt-steering to give you easier access. (The pic shows knee-bolster still connected. It will be hanging down when you get to this step.)
STEP 6:
Remove:
a) tilt-steering handle (it just pulls rights off!)
b) key-tumbler trim (with screwdriver)
c) rubber trim under key-tumbler
just pull it !
GENTLY pry the key-tumbler trim with a screwdriver. Next, the rubber trim under the tumbler will slide upwards.
another pic after the steering column trim is removed to show the tumbler trim
STEP 7:
Remove the lower steering-column trim piece. Note how it connects to the top piece on the backside.
Here’s how the top and bottom fit together on the backside. It’s like a little hinge.
Here’s the bottom piece by itself.
STEP 8:
Remove top steering-column plastic piece. There are two screws that hold the top piece in place and come up through the bottom-side. They are a “male torx” and need a torx socket. I didn’t have this type of socket but a 4mm socket worked perfect.
The one on the left is easy.
The one on the right is extremely hard to see, but not too difficult to reach with an extension. You can see it by looking through the plastic around the tumbler. Watch that you don’t drop it inside the steering wheel like I did! Had to retrieve it with a magnet.
STEP 9:
Remove the two T25 torx screws that attach the multi-function switch to the steering-column.
The top one is easy.
Here’s how I got to the bottom one. Use the ¼ wrench on the T25 torx bit.
STEP 10:
Your multi-function switch will now come off the steering-column. There is no need to disconnect the electrical connections to the harness.
Now, remove the four T10 torx bits on the cover. BE CAREFUL HERE. THERE ARE VERY SMALL SPRINGS INSIDE THE SWITCH. OPEN THE COVER SLOWLY. NOTE HOW IT COMES APART.
Here’s the cover removed. Note the button with the spring coming out. Note how the ‘Y’ plastic fits in and moves within the slot.
STEP 11:
With the cover off you’ll be able to clean the copper contacts underneath the white plastic piece. THE WHITE PLASTIC PIECE DOES NOT COME OUT. Simply reach behind it with a Q-Tip and clean the grease. Mine need about 10 Q-Tips! I didn’t re-grease because it wasn’t possible to apply the grease exactly where it should be. Rather, I cleaned with the Q-Tip but tried not to completely remove the grease.
STEP 12:
Re-install multi-function switch cover.
You’ll need to work the handle and the switch and make sure it’s working the way it should. When it is apart, the gears at the base of the handle get misaligned. The wipers and mist functions should all move and click appropriately. You’ll understand this when you see it. It takes some patience to make it all fit together while re-installing the T10 torx screws.
DOUBLE-CHECK THAT IT IS MOVING PROPERLY AFTER YOU RE-INSTALL THE COVER.
STEP 13:
Your switch is now clean. Installation is the reverse of removal.
You may want to re-connect your negative battery wire and test. I’d still recommend staying clear of the air bag. If all works well, disconnect that battery to finish re-installing all the trim just to be sure.
Here’s how I used a piece of wood and hammer to persuade the key-tumbler trim to go back on. Just a couple of light taps was all that was needed. It was kind of like pressing a seal.
FINAL STEP:
After all that time under the dash, you’ll need to install many capsules of ibuprofen into your back and neck.
Balloon Bomber
Worm Race
Re: cleaning your multi-function switch (LOTSA pics)
