Our low mileage(88,000 miles), well-maintained Safari has always faithfully took us everywhere we've pointed it, but yesterday, while just driving along on the highway at about 65mph, the tranny suddenly started jumping in and out of gear! It did this maybe a dozen times within a half mile, then disengaged completely. I tried drive as well as OD, and nothing. So, I tossed it in neutral, glided to a stop, and checked the fluid. It was right up and fine(though a bit dark). Hopped back in, took off, and all is fine. it hasn't done it since! I've tried to make it slip or jump out of gear, even did a few smoky burnouts(yes, a Safari can smoke 'em good!), and all seems fine.

We've pulled the pan, and there is no sign of clutch or metal shavings, and all looks great. No codes in the computer, either. Changed the filter, topped it up with fresh fluid, and it's running perfectly, but I do NOT trust it at this point, and we have a 3,000 mile trip planned for next week.

Help!

Welcome to the forum!
Electronics are a large factor in engine controls and transmission shifting. Electrical problems can display symptoms that appear to be "mechanical" problems because they have an immediate effect when they malfunction. Even a seasoned professional can have difficulty differentiating between transmission and engine malfunctions simply by road testing the vehicle. With no evidence of damage, in the form of particles in the transmission pan, no abnormal noises when driving, and the fact that the symptom cannot be duplicated on demand, it would lead me to believe that there is an intermittent electrical or electronic malfunction. There are several components and circuits in both the engine and the transmission that are not continuously monitored by the OBDI system on your vehicle therefore will not illuminate the "Service Engine Soon" light if/when they malfunction. With that said, the next time the symptoms appear, immediately shift the transmission into neutral and notice if the engine is running normally. A "jerky" or uneven input to the transmission will produce a "jerky" or uneven output from the transmission. Like the old adage: junk in, junk out. Once it has been determined for certain which component is at fault, (engine or transmission) diagnosis can continue. Not to jump to conclusions or anything, ;) but I have seen faulty EGR valves cause similar symptoms. Hope this helps.

Thanks for replying!

I did in fact toss it into neutral when this happened, and the engine was dead on perfect. I then tried 3rd gear(drive) and it was in and out like overdrive was doing. At this point is where I tossed it back into neutral, and glided to a stop, figuring I'd blown a cooling line or something and had lost fluid.

After checking the fluid and finding it was fine, I drove off, and it has been perfect since. We did put new fluid and filter in after dropping the pan, but that's it.

I agree that it seems to be an electronic issue, or perhaps a sticking solenoid or valve. What do you think?


We leave for our trip today, early afternoon. I will check here agin before leaving, to see if you have any advice on what to look for or try should it happen again.

Thanks again for chiming-in! I have a lot of engine experience, having built a few hot rods in my younger days, and can get around well with them, but these electronic controlled items stump me. But I can assure you that the engine was indeed running fine; it was definately the transmission jumping completly out of gear, then back in, then out, then in......

You're probably gone by now, I just walked in the door from work, sorry I missed you. More than likely that's exactly what it is/was, a sticking solenoid or valve. The next step in diagnosis would be to connect a scan tool that has capabilities of monitoring the circuits in the transmission while driving. When it does malfunction, watch the circuits for an erratic condition. Hope you had a good trip.

Just got back. Had a perfect trip, no problems whatsoever.
2700+ miles, problem-free!

Tranny is behaving like a champ, as is the rest of the van.
Seems 'ol reliable was just having a bad hiccup that day.

If it starts to act up again, I'll come back with an update. Thanks for the hand...

Glad the hiccups are gone and glad you had a good trip.

I have the same problem with my 95 Safari if you hold the gear while driving it never will jump out of gear :( but as soon as I let go and hit a nice size bump my van jumps into neutral pretty weird, I can find the problem I will get it to a transmission shop soon I'm just terrified of these shops that always say replace the transmission. I haven't had any problem since I learned the new trick something has to be loose. I'm baffled.

The shift linkage needs adjustment. There are detents built into the transmission and the gear shift, they need to be in sync with each other.

I've also experinced intermittent connections at the range switch on the side of the trans, and at the connector above the trans oil pan on the right side.

As for the original poster's issue, dropping the pan and a change to clean fluid may well have solved the problem of a stuck spool in the valve body. Regular maintenance DOES have it's benefits.

Well, the fresh fluid wasn't the end-all answer....


It happened again, late last week. No drive or OD, but dropping the 2nd gear works. I couldn't keep 3rd or 4th at all, until I stopped completely, shut down the engine, re-started and drove off. Couple hundred miles since, and still flawless, again.

Deeply baffled!!

You may have posted it earlier, but does it go cleanly to reverse when the episodes occur? Knowing that may help determine whether it is an overall line pressure issue, or a valving issue with individual gears. If there is no reverse, it may be a pump or pump pressure control problem. If reverse operates, it could be valving from either of a couple of shift solenoids, the main electrical connector, or PCM/range switch problems. Fortunately, all those potential problems can usually be solved without removing the transmission, since the solenoids and pressure control spool are accessible through the oil pan.

Yes, reverse is fine, also.

I was pouring rain when this latest episode happened, also. I mean, a real frog strangler! Dunno if that says anything or not, but perhaps there's a connection down there that's less than ideal.

Since it jumps from OD and/or D to neutral, which is the likeliest switch/solenoid/whatever connection point? I could at least pul the cables and shoot some contact cleaner into them. Since I went well over a month trouble-free, I'm in no panic. I'd like to try everything possible externally before I tear into the valve body.

Any ideas? And thanks for staying with me here! Much 'preciated!

The main electrical connector for the transmission is on the RH side near and above the right rear corner of the trans pan. It plugs into the transmission directly vertically (downward) and can become a problem when subected to contamination. Rather than use a contact cleaner, I'd suggest you remove and inspect it. Dry the connections and clean any corrosion you may find on either the pins or sockets, then grease the connector with a dielectric silicone grease (tune-up grease) and reconect it firmly.

I cautioned against using contact cleaner since some of them can be rather harsh on the plastic bodies. If the cleaner you use is marked "safe for plastics" then it should be acceptable. Just leave the connector open long enough to allow any cleaner to fully dry or evaporate.

You may find a similar problem on the connectors for the range selector switch on the left side of the trans. They also can become contaminated. If you have the electronic display for the transmission range selection instead of the mechanical indicator, and some of the segments don't backlight properly when the selector is placed in the corresponding gear, that's a strong indication that there may be trouble at the range selector switch. The PCM uses that information to operate solenoids, so losing signal there can affect transmission operation.

If the vehicle were a '96 or later, any intermittent connections at the main connector would likely turn on the MIL and lock a transmission error code (DTC). A '95 probably won't do that.