nxk2000

I have a 97 astro with 100,000 miles. I started to notice a low tone, up and down groaning noise coming from the rear end. It is most noticeable while driving about 20-30 mph while turning. There are no vibration when driving faster. I was thinking maybe the rear axle bearings. I removed the rear tires and drums to check for play. I found the axle would move up and down but not side to side. What would cause only an up and down movement? If I do replace the rear wheel bearings is there a race that needs changed also and what’s the best way to get it out? I have also heard about some axle saver bearings. Are these worth dealing with?

Blue Bowtie

Radial (up & down) movement almost certainly means a failed wheel bearing. If you are fortunate, only the bearing(s) is damaged and the axle shafts are not yet gouged. If you are not so lucky, the axle will be damaged and require replacement or repair. Replacement is not so easy, since only the Astro/Safari uses the offset axles (different length on each side).

Raise the rear axle and place it securely on stands. Remove the wheel/tire on the offending side(s). Remove the differential cover and catch the oil. Rotate the axle to expose the differential pinion shaft lock bolt. Remove the bolt and allow the differential pinion shaft to slide out of the differential side gears. Push the axle inward to exposed the "C" clip that is normally retained by the recess in the side gear, and remove the clip. Carefully slide the axle out of the housing, taking care to avoid damage to the seal at the end of the axle tube. Take the axle to your friendly neighborhood machine shop and have them emove the old bearing and press a new on in its place. For the cost of a bearing, it might make sense to do both. Reassemble the axle and torque the differential pinion shaft lock bolt to 18 ft/lb. Install the cover with a new gasket which has the oil return cutouts in the sides. Fill with NEW gear oil to the lower edge of the fill plug. Secure the wheels and lower the vehicle.

MT-2500

The axel saver bearings can be used if the axel erase is bad/rough to save replacing the axel.
The axel is the erase.
Is the up and down noise when you give it gas and let up on it ? If so you may have deaper problems.
http://www.differentials.com/install.html
MT

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Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems.
MT

nxk2000

Tonight I tried accelerating when it happened and it didn’t change anything. One thing that I pieced together tonight was in the past I have applied the emergency brake when it happens and it would go away. I’m guessing the e-brake would center up the bearing causing the noise to go away. A few weeks ago I had done a brake job on the rear because I thought the drums where out of round causing the noise. It felt like the drums where warped during light braking. Of course the brake job didn’t fix the problem. Thanks for the detailed instructions on the bearing change. I will try to get It taken care of soon.

Aqua Angel

interesting how we can talk about diff and bearing problems after replacing mine, too bad that wasn't posted before i replaced my diff this long week end. LMAO i had the same problem, but my diff was lightly leaking gear oil by the bearings. So nothing could of been done to it other than replacing my entire diff. i wonder why i did it as i am getting another Astro van maybe next month.

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93, Chevy Astro van, Saphire Blue, Led tail light.

looking for:
Euro clear corner lights and Billet grill "chrome" and a good shinny 5 spoke rims and a disc brake rear differential

MT-2500

On a bad axel bearing when you get the axel out look at it where the bearing runs on it. If it is rough there you will need the axel saver bearing or new axel.
If just a bad bearing inspect the bearing real close and you can usually see it.
MT

__________________
Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems.
MT

nxk2000

Well tonight I pull my axles out to take a look. Both axles were pitted one worse then the other. The bearings are pressed in the axle housing not on the shaft. I found that Dorman makes replacement axles. Right is 630-109 at 132.00 and the left is 630-110 at 165.00 through Oreilly auto parts. I will be getting all new parts and installing soon. I did find that the fel-pro diff gasket didn’t have the holes to match up to the housing. So I’ll cut them out for better lubrication.

jimmypodunk

My guess would be it is the e-brake cable sticking.

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Ruh Roh George!

nxk2000

I think you should try reading things again. The brake cable has nothing to do with my problem.




If anyone should get the Dorman kits double check the seals that are included with the kit. The right side came with two seals and both of them were wrong. Everything is good now since the axle change.