03-16-2006, 10:54 AM
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#1
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Roselle, Illinois
Posts: 130
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98 Blazer pad/rotor combo
The brakes on my blazer are horrible. I think that the front rotors and pads are glazed, and they are only about a year old, plenty of meat on them. I tried the procudure that tirerack gave to unglaze them, it worked for about a day or two. I was thinking of getting the OEM pads and rotors, but would like something a little better if it's not much more money. I will be towing a boat this spring and want to have good brakes. Does anyone have a suggestion for a good pad/rotor combination?
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1998 Blazer 4WD 4.3L 118,000miles 4dr
 Repairs
--rear main seal, u/l ball joints, pitman/idler arms, i/o tie rod ends, control arm bushings, motor/trans mounts, oil relocation lines, door pin bushings, water pump, ring/pinion.
--Bad ABS ground, loose connection blower motor, repaired pulse board.
 Mods/upgrades
-Throttle plate mod.
1999 Ford Windstar SE 3.8L 160,000miles
Repairs
--P171/P174 procedure, loaded control arms, tie rod ends, shocks, struts, springs.
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03-16-2006, 08:08 PM
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#2
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Orwigsburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,865
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Re: 98 Blazer pad/rotor combo
Ceramic pads for sure.
Slotted rotors they might be what your looking for if not the OEM ones they carry in store should do the job.
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1991 Chevy S-10 Blazer 5.7 V8 RIP
1999 Chevy Blazer 2dr 4.3--> If GM engineered something to fail on this beast it has or will.  Repairs include w/in first 30 days of owning it: P1870, left front wheel bearing, gas cap, rad cap, idler tensioner, seat handles, and the list goes on.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=890449
Chime in ^ with any suggestions.
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03-16-2006, 10:11 PM
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#3
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Advisor/Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Belleville, Michigan
Posts: 2,962
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Re: 98 Blazer pad/rotor combo
What I recommend is the same thing I do on my own: The cheapest rotors that you can find. The best ceramic pads, (slotted and chamfered, with riveted on shims) that you can find. Bendix, Raybestos and Wagner all make excellent quality pads. Replace and lube all of the hardware. Make sure the pistons are not binding in the caliper bores. Make sure the rear brakes are working properly and adjusted correctly. I've been doing brakes this way for years with no squeaks, fade, or pull and typically get 50,000 miles on a brake job. Keep in mind that yes, I’m old, but the fact remains, it works.
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