Ford Windstar 2000 not auto shifting to higher gears/speeds
kantakuri
03-05-2006, 12:26 AM
I have a Ford Windstar 2000 with 108K miles. Runs in Drive, but would not auto shift gear up to higher speeds (max is about 25) unless I manually shift lower to gear 2, then it only runs as fast as 40 mph. Check engine light also came on. Battery was weak bcos the van has been sitting for a while, but appears to charging back up.
Later checked transmission fluid and added some Mercon V. Runs a little faster in Drive, but soon started flashing O/D light.
After about 2hrs of resting the van, restarted the van, the O/D light did not come on again even when driving but the speed issue returned - runs in Drive, but would not auto shift gear up to higher speeds, runs as fast as 40 mph in gear 2. Check engine light still on.
Please advice.
Later checked transmission fluid and added some Mercon V. Runs a little faster in Drive, but soon started flashing O/D light.
After about 2hrs of resting the van, restarted the van, the O/D light did not come on again even when driving but the speed issue returned - runs in Drive, but would not auto shift gear up to higher speeds, runs as fast as 40 mph in gear 2. Check engine light still on.
Please advice.
wiswind
03-05-2006, 07:15 AM
Going no higher than 2nd gear is "limp mode".
First thing I would do is replace the Trasmission Range Sensor (TRS).
The part costs about $40 (us) and is on top of the transmission, under the air filter & MAF. You remove the air filter box and the flex hose to the throttle body, and the TRS is under there.
There is a cable that goes from your gear select inside the car, to the TRS.
The TRS tells your transmission electronics what gear you have selected.
I had the same problem as you, and it was the TRS, shortly there-after I had more problems with the transmission.
The TRS is also called Neutral Safety Switch.
If this does not solve the problem, or if you have to take it in to have the TRS replaced, I would have the transmission codes read.
You can see the TRS on my '96 in my pictures.
http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK
First thing I would do is replace the Trasmission Range Sensor (TRS).
The part costs about $40 (us) and is on top of the transmission, under the air filter & MAF. You remove the air filter box and the flex hose to the throttle body, and the TRS is under there.
There is a cable that goes from your gear select inside the car, to the TRS.
The TRS tells your transmission electronics what gear you have selected.
I had the same problem as you, and it was the TRS, shortly there-after I had more problems with the transmission.
The TRS is also called Neutral Safety Switch.
If this does not solve the problem, or if you have to take it in to have the TRS replaced, I would have the transmission codes read.
You can see the TRS on my '96 in my pictures.
http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK
kantakuri
03-08-2006, 01:49 AM
Thanks "wswind" for your advice. I'll find some time by this weekend to replace the TRS. I was wondering if the other problems you said you later had with your transmission had anything to do with replacing the TRS or the steps involved.
Also, AutoZone diagnosed my CEL as P0401 - insufficient EGR flow/EGR valve. I saw a detailed post on fixing the P0171/174 codes(http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html) as being capable of fixing P0401 also, or is there a simpler/more selective method? In addition, the TSB referenced on that site recommend reprogramming the PCM - sounds like a dealer's exclusive step or can it be done by oneself? Thanks a lot for your insights.
Also, AutoZone diagnosed my CEL as P0401 - insufficient EGR flow/EGR valve. I saw a detailed post on fixing the P0171/174 codes(http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html) as being capable of fixing P0401 also, or is there a simpler/more selective method? In addition, the TSB referenced on that site recommend reprogramming the PCM - sounds like a dealer's exclusive step or can it be done by oneself? Thanks a lot for your insights.
LeSabre97mint
03-08-2006, 06:55 AM
I have a Ford Windstar 2000 with 108K miles. Runs in Drive, but would not auto shift gear up to higher speeds (max is about 25) unless I manually shift lower to gear 2, then it only runs as fast as 40 mph. Check engine light also came on. Battery was weak bcos the van has been sitting for a while, but appears to charging back up.
Later checked transmission fluid and added some Mercon V. Runs a little faster in Drive, but soon started flashing O/D light.
After about 2hrs of resting the van, restarted the van, the O/D light did not come on again even when driving but the speed issue returned - runs in Drive, but would not auto shift gear up to higher speeds, runs as fast as 40 mph in gear 2. Check engine light still on.
Please advice.
Hello
Keep in mind that these trannies work on electricity. If the battery is low, the trannie may not have enough power to function. Charge up the battery before replacing anything. If a battery is really low, I would recomend charging it with a battery charger rather than using the alt because of the increased load will be hard on the alt.
Regards
Dan
Later checked transmission fluid and added some Mercon V. Runs a little faster in Drive, but soon started flashing O/D light.
After about 2hrs of resting the van, restarted the van, the O/D light did not come on again even when driving but the speed issue returned - runs in Drive, but would not auto shift gear up to higher speeds, runs as fast as 40 mph in gear 2. Check engine light still on.
Please advice.
Hello
Keep in mind that these trannies work on electricity. If the battery is low, the trannie may not have enough power to function. Charge up the battery before replacing anything. If a battery is really low, I would recomend charging it with a battery charger rather than using the alt because of the increased load will be hard on the alt.
Regards
Dan
DRW1000
03-08-2006, 08:37 AM
Code 401 is caused by feedback from the DPFE. This is separate issue from 171/174. I don't believe that there is a PCM reprogram to address 401. A while ago I posted some information on how to test the DPFE by backprobing the wires at the connector. I will try to find where I posted this (when I am not at work). The DPFE is a common failure for these vans. The part has been re-designed. It costs about $60 and takes about 10 minutes to replace.
I cannot see a connection to the Transmission problems and code 401.
I will add though that if the voltage is low then most (if not all) of the sensors including the DPFE could have lower reference voltages and can affect the readings. This is a longshot but is a possibility.
I cannot see a connection to the Transmission problems and code 401.
I will add though that if the voltage is low then most (if not all) of the sensors including the DPFE could have lower reference voltages and can affect the readings. This is a longshot but is a possibility.
kantakuri
03-10-2006, 05:22 PM
Thanks everyone for your insights. Below is a situation report:
- charged the battery outside vehicle, till full charge
- Followed instructions in manual for vehicle re-learning after battery install
- Drove around for about 16 miles, including Hwy and speeds up to 65mph
- Flashing O/D light, CEL and hard shift to higher gear remain, (2nd to 3rd)
- After parking, later noticed that some fluid leaked (ATF) from under engine
Following day
- Bought TRS (NSS) from Ford dealer (~$46)
- Replaced TRS (had to remove battery in addtion to air filter housing)
- While at it, also replaced the air filter and carbin air filter
- Took vehicle for test drive, ~ 16 miles, including Hwy
- Flashing O/D light, CEL and hard shift to higher gear returned (2nd to 3rd)
- When parking noticed ATF leakage, about double that mentioned above
- Waited about an hour, restarted vehicle and drove slow at 2nd gear mostly
- No leaks, no flashing O/D light but CEL came back
This is where I am. Thanks for your suggestions.:screwy:
- charged the battery outside vehicle, till full charge
- Followed instructions in manual for vehicle re-learning after battery install
- Drove around for about 16 miles, including Hwy and speeds up to 65mph
- Flashing O/D light, CEL and hard shift to higher gear remain, (2nd to 3rd)
- After parking, later noticed that some fluid leaked (ATF) from under engine
Following day
- Bought TRS (NSS) from Ford dealer (~$46)
- Replaced TRS (had to remove battery in addtion to air filter housing)
- While at it, also replaced the air filter and carbin air filter
- Took vehicle for test drive, ~ 16 miles, including Hwy
- Flashing O/D light, CEL and hard shift to higher gear returned (2nd to 3rd)
- When parking noticed ATF leakage, about double that mentioned above
- Waited about an hour, restarted vehicle and drove slow at 2nd gear mostly
- No leaks, no flashing O/D light but CEL came back
This is where I am. Thanks for your suggestions.:screwy:
wiswind
03-10-2006, 06:28 PM
I would get the codes read.
They may be the same.....but they could also have changed, so getting them read will make sure that you are looking at the right information.
They may be the same.....but they could also have changed, so getting them read will make sure that you are looking at the right information.
kantakuri
03-11-2006, 07:09 PM
Hi all, here's a situation report
- Rechecked CEL code at AutoZone, still only P0401 detected
- Took vehicle to transmission auto shop, vehicle test driven
- Opinion was that 3rd gear is lost and the tranny needs to be rebuilt or replaced
- Still ATF leaks after driving, about 2 tea cup leakage
- Found leakage area to be at about a metallic plate midway under engine
Should I add Lucas Transmission Fix?
Is tranny over heating, resulting in leakages or is it just a seal failure?
Could it be the VSS and not the TRS (replaced earlier) thats the problem?
- Would visit AAMCO for transmission check soon.
- Rechecked CEL code at AutoZone, still only P0401 detected
- Took vehicle to transmission auto shop, vehicle test driven
- Opinion was that 3rd gear is lost and the tranny needs to be rebuilt or replaced
- Still ATF leaks after driving, about 2 tea cup leakage
- Found leakage area to be at about a metallic plate midway under engine
Should I add Lucas Transmission Fix?
Is tranny over heating, resulting in leakages or is it just a seal failure?
Could it be the VSS and not the TRS (replaced earlier) thats the problem?
- Would visit AAMCO for transmission check soon.
kantakuri
03-13-2006, 06:19 PM
Situation report:
- Added ~1/2 of Lucas Trans Fix, drove mildly about 20 - 30 miles, no leaks
- Took van to AAMCO diagnostics today
- AAMCO found no trans - related codes despite CEL (AutoZone found p0401)
- AAMCO said ATF has burn smell
- AAMCO advised and did hydraulic pressure test, cost $125
- AAMCO said leaks due to mechanical faul/damages internally
- AAMCO said leak at trans torque converter (TC) - engine mating surface
- AAMCO said TC may be bad, advised to rebuild or install remanufactured trans, cost ranging from $1500 (rebuild, if no other damaged internals/parts:screwy: ) to over $2700 (remanufactured trans only) depending on option chosen
- AAMCO also noted that battery charge low (despite out of - vehicle recharge for about 4 hrs using 2 Amps, about 3 days ago)
- AAMCO said nothing about TRS
Wondering
- If TRS needs adjustment
- If a failed torque converter could lead to all these trouble
Thoughtful suggestions appreciated.
- Added ~1/2 of Lucas Trans Fix, drove mildly about 20 - 30 miles, no leaks
- Took van to AAMCO diagnostics today
- AAMCO found no trans - related codes despite CEL (AutoZone found p0401)
- AAMCO said ATF has burn smell
- AAMCO advised and did hydraulic pressure test, cost $125
- AAMCO said leaks due to mechanical faul/damages internally
- AAMCO said leak at trans torque converter (TC) - engine mating surface
- AAMCO said TC may be bad, advised to rebuild or install remanufactured trans, cost ranging from $1500 (rebuild, if no other damaged internals/parts:screwy: ) to over $2700 (remanufactured trans only) depending on option chosen
- AAMCO also noted that battery charge low (despite out of - vehicle recharge for about 4 hrs using 2 Amps, about 3 days ago)
- AAMCO said nothing about TRS
Wondering
- If TRS needs adjustment
- If a failed torque converter could lead to all these trouble
Thoughtful suggestions appreciated.
12Ounce
03-13-2006, 07:47 PM
The Digital Transmission Range Sensor (DTR) does require alignment. It is easy enough to do.
Put the tranny selector in N. Observe the DTR. There is a scribe line on the black plastic body outer .... and a scribe line on the white plastic inner ring. The plastic body is mounted using slotted holes that allow for matching these two lines.
Put the tranny selector in N. Observe the DTR. There is a scribe line on the black plastic body outer .... and a scribe line on the white plastic inner ring. The plastic body is mounted using slotted holes that allow for matching these two lines.
wiswind
03-13-2006, 08:14 PM
Get that battery situation taken care of.
I would put a new one in....as, if original, you are on what I call "borrowed time". Anything over 5 years, especially if the vehicle has been sitting, and you did all the charging that you stated......
I bought one from Autozone, their "Duralast Gold" that has a LOT of power.
Reason that I stated this, 1, you need to do this anyhow, as it is weak...and may take your alternator out if not replaced (additional current load).
2, it can cause problems as the supply voltage is questionable to many electronic monitored items.
3. They are not expensive (relatively speaking).
P0401 may be caused by the DPFE, which is not expensive, and is easy to replace.... However, see if that problem is the same after the new battery is installed.
I would put a new one in....as, if original, you are on what I call "borrowed time". Anything over 5 years, especially if the vehicle has been sitting, and you did all the charging that you stated......
I bought one from Autozone, their "Duralast Gold" that has a LOT of power.
Reason that I stated this, 1, you need to do this anyhow, as it is weak...and may take your alternator out if not replaced (additional current load).
2, it can cause problems as the supply voltage is questionable to many electronic monitored items.
3. They are not expensive (relatively speaking).
P0401 may be caused by the DPFE, which is not expensive, and is easy to replace.... However, see if that problem is the same after the new battery is installed.
kantakuri
03-16-2006, 08:35 AM
Took van to a tranny shop. After test drive, and computer code checking, tech said two codes came up. One for EGR insufficient flow (P0401) and the other for torque converter not working (P0743). Tech also removed the trans fluid pan to inspect. Found no major accumulation of metallics but said there was blakish residue on bottom of pan, suggestive of worn clutches, as well as burn odor. Suggested repair cost about $1.8K.
joeuser742
03-21-2006, 06:54 PM
Well, not to add to the cost, but one thing that you can try is to have the fluid changed/flushed, the fluid could be old and broken down too much. These transmissions have some "safety" feature, when the fluid gets too hot, it will release the fluid to prevent damage to the internal parts. The vent hole is between the motor and trans, that will make it look like the torque converter is bad. Now as for the pressure testing failing, I'm not sure about that, you might have a bad trans.
If the transmission starts to shutter, then you can try changing the low and intermediate servo piston seal, that worked for me.
If the transmission starts to shutter, then you can try changing the low and intermediate servo piston seal, that worked for me.
Karmana
05-05-2006, 10:48 PM
The Digital Transmission Range Sensor (DTR) does require alignment. It is easy enough to do.
Put the tranny selector in N. Observe the DTR. There is a scribe line on the black plastic body outer .... and a scribe line on the white plastic inner ring. The plastic body is mounted using slotted holes that allow for matching these two lines.
Is a slight variance of about 1/8th inch 'ok', or do these two marks need to be EXACTLY lined up?
Put the tranny selector in N. Observe the DTR. There is a scribe line on the black plastic body outer .... and a scribe line on the white plastic inner ring. The plastic body is mounted using slotted holes that allow for matching these two lines.
Is a slight variance of about 1/8th inch 'ok', or do these two marks need to be EXACTLY lined up?
Paul Scanzillo
05-06-2006, 06:39 AM
I replaced the TRS on my '95 3.8 recently. O/D light did not go off until I disconnected battery for a few minutes and reconnected. It is my experience that engine/tranny codes can reside for a number of ignition cycles (Chrysler) and then reset. Is this the case with the Windstar?
In anycase the TRS fixed my problem with "limp mode" and shifting issues.
In anycase the TRS fixed my problem with "limp mode" and shifting issues.
rmbarraza1
02-23-2007, 11:10 AM
Did you have the problem resolved, can you enter details? I'm having this same problem in my 01 Windstar. Thanks in Advance
Karmana
02-23-2007, 12:06 PM
Did you have the problem resolved, can you enter details? I'm having this same problem in my 01 Windstar. Thanks in Advance
Rmbarraza1, read my thread on the same issue here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=576985
Rmbarraza1, read my thread on the same issue here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=576985
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