Ok so here's the story; engine was already warmed up 30 minutes+ etc. i turned it off to add some oil, start it up with no problems, put it in reverse and it died :frown: i knew what that meant; however, i tried it to crank it again couple of times, i know i shouldn't be doing this. I thought my igniter is gone since i was getting no spark and today i took timing belt cover off and bum timing belt's all loose, damn....

So here's my question: timing belt broke around ~500/600rpm, engine cranks rather healthy with higher spin but no metallic sound, are my valves bend?
what's good/bad scenario with v6 breaking timing belt? Any comments appreciated.

anybody?

If you've got a stock 3V-ZE engine, you're in luck. The valves shouldn't be damaged. It's a free-running engine.

If you've got a 5VZ-FE, you are likely to need some expensive repairs, like a couple of bent valves and hopefully, no head or piston damage. They can be totalled.

http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=TBR05.pdf&folder=brochure

It's a free-running engine

hmm ... interesting ... so u sayin that its design is similar to vw? I will double check that link that u posted later on, kind busy right now, my dad's accord almost loose crankshaft pulley so i have go and check it out, this week sux 3D. Brian thanks for replay once again :)

No, I'm not saying the design is similar to vw. Only that it is not an interference engine.

You're welcome.

Brian R is correct,the 3VZE engine (used in about 40% of the 1988-95 4-Runners & pickups sold in Canada & USA) is a non-interference engine therefore only the timing belt is bad.These engines are notorious for timing belt idler bearings seizing up so THEY MUST BE REPLACED,see link below for the whole replacement process:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/v6tbelt/index.html

Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 247 000 KM

http://groups.google.com/group/hfx.forsale/browse_thread/thread/43940ce83231ab85/4e4c696fbf04837f?q=sidney+tv+repair&rnum=1#4e4c696fbf04837f

http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/May02/May18.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/SonyAudMod.html
http://www.newark.com/product-details/image/mcm/image/32-9495.jpg
http://www.tipsmaster.ca/hottips-1.HTM
http://www.tipsmaster.ca/1011-TV32C50-007.jpg
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/June03/June0315.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/Apr03/Apr033.html


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:) thanks for info, i think i will change head gasket as well, damn ... i never had done so much work just with one car/truck. :headshake

Why change the head gasket? Don't fix it if it ain't broke...

yeah that's true ... but i just dont want to deal with that later on, they are known to be cheap and cause problems.

It is not the head gaskets that are cheap it is a mechanical design issue with the heads

4Wheel said it. I believe they changed the head gasket design to help fix this problem, but the real problem was the head distortion. For this reason, they needed a better head gasket to seal the head to the block.

ok so now im getting lost, i've read that there was a recall for V6 3.0 head gasket in 4Runner FAQs section eg here (http://www.brian894x4.com/V6headgasketrecall.html) unless we are talking about two different things :uhoh:
So u guys are sayin that blowing head gaskets are caused by not heat-treated heads? Ok so what should i do?, I only bought this track to use it for winter and have my other car off the road. Damn .. this thing is one big F nightmare :disappoin she goes one more time and im gonna dump it in the river regardless of what i had done to it. :cya:

Who said anything about heat treating? What kind of nightmare? Replacing a timing belt is to be expected. If you gave us some information about your truck, we could be more helpful. You actually haven't told us what year truck you have or what engine you have.

The head gasket is what gives and has to be replaced, but it is caused by other things. Toyota makes understanding easy for people by saying it is a head gasket problem. If they called it a head problem, they would have people wanting their heads replaced. Since Toyota is replacing head gaskets, they call it a head gasket problem. The real problem is having an aluminum head on a cast iron block. It has to be done right, and equipped with the right gasket and it wasn't.

The truck is old enough that you will probably never have any problem with the head gasket. It is either solid or has already been replaced. Just don't let it run low on coolant and overheat.

Who said anything about heat treating?

well, i did ... but it doesnt matter at this point ...

The real problem is having an aluminum head on a cast iron block. It has to be done right, and equipped with the right gasket and it wasn't.

ok so which gasket i will be looking at if i wanna change it?

Generally, truck has 186XXX where does XXX doesn't line up with 186 (i've notice that recently)so the odometer could be rolled, the body was in really rough condition that was fixed recently(vietcong), 90 auto v6 that's all i know. That truck was one time deal, i had a choice to either drive lowered vehicle with going suspension issues during winter that turned out to be bad ass or buy whatever ... and now i got my truck back for about 6 weeks and timing went and im stuck again with lowered vehicle this time with full racing suspension and mild winter....

I dont even know if this thing is worth my time, forgot to mention noisy axle, leaky fuel tank, half rotten fuel inlet, steering free-play, random opening of tailgate window, front upper arms bushings gone and maybe some other suspension components too, and yeah .. engine mounts are probably shot as well. i think that would be it for now :smile:

Get the factory gaskets as they have been redesigned with the problem in mind. After market gaskets will be of a generic design with no consideration to this problem.

Repost with good solid progress and we can guide you where we can.
But you are jumping around so much now you are spun up on headgaskets when you original post was for a bad idle/ingine dyeing.

But you are jumping around so much now you are spun up on headgaskets when you original post was for a bad idle/ingine dyeing

i dont like doing half jobs, if i decide to do timing belt most likely i will do headgasket and fuel filter as well, i'd rather do everything at once. Im just trying to get as much info as i can, my knowledge about 4runners and trucks in general are very, very minimal, btw thanks for factory gaskets info 4Wheel :smile:

The head gasket is a major. The belt is very easy compared to the head gasket replacement.
Then what if after al that work it still does the same thing?
Fuel filters are RARELY a problem and a pain in the ass to replace.

Then what if after al that work it still does the same thing?

u mean blowing head gasket? i dunno i never blew head gasket before, im checking coolant/oil weekly anyway. If it does blow im either gonna drop 4cyl (dont remember engine code for it 22r or something like that); most likely :headshake or leave it at my friends garage, they already got 2 partly stripped 4runners and one more coming since my buddy doing blazer frame swap or something like that, they can use parts for future projects; im hoping she will hold, because i dont feel like machining head for it if she blows ... then ..... (razors); i'll have to buy another winter beater but it wont be a truck for sure :rolleyes:

.... and a pain in the ass to replace

heh ... i know, and that's why i wanna change it while doing head gasket.

Well the fuel filter is down on the frame back by the transfercase crossmember. good luck

:) thanks man, i'll keep u guys posted, probably april/may, kind a chilly lately.

Yep, its me again :) so I start working on my lovely 4runner again, so here's an update, im few inches away from ripping heads out, exhaust is almost out, camshafts are out etc. I will need new radiator since old one is in really bad condition, and yeah timing belt broke because water pump seize off, if it wouldnt seized off, timing belt would go either way due to amount of oil squeezing thru camshafts seals... damn :eek: . So yeah im having fun ... :grinyes: ; basically im gonna need:

- headgaskets
- camshafts seals
- timing belt
- water pump
- idler roll?
- upper roll?
- crankshaft front and rear seal
- new exhaust gaskets(can I reuse old ones?)

Am I missing something here? :screwy:
How do I synchronize everything after? I know that I have to set crankshaft at 0 degress btdc, correct? what about camshafts sprockets? do I install one backwards or not?

thanks for helping me out guys, ill post some pics tomorrow; hopefully it will stop raining :) cheers, N.S

P.S how hard is it to change rear crankshaft seal?

Here is a link for reference.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine.html

Exhaust manifold gaskets should be replaced.

im already using that as reference, I'll read everything once again, thanks Brian :)

old
http://dayne.dobrynet.pl/forum/files/4runner_head_173.jpg

new
http://www3.sympatico.ca/northernsun/3vze_assembly_106.jpg