Ok, looooooong story short, I drove it though some deep water and it ended up blowing the headgaskets and bending two rods, and melting a few pistons, it took taking the head off and putting them back on twice to realice the bottom end needed to be rebuilt. After the first time it would start, and it ended up being the mass air sensor being a little messes up (i opened up the black half-moon siliconed around and fidgeted a little in there and it fired up).

So now I have a new bottom end newly adjusted valves etc.... all the new stuff you should replace when rebuilding an engine. I got it all together and but back in the truck. Hooked everything up. And not it wont start again. It kicks a little here and there but wont stay running. The timing is dead on where it needs to be. Before we adjusted the timing it wouls start and run for maybe 6 or 7 seconds and then die. Now that the timing is on 8* it wont start. there is fuel pressure at the rail ( loosened the bolt and fuel squirted out), there is spark, and because its a rebuilt engine I am assuming it has compression. My father and I are thinking maybe because it sat for so long wihtout the engine in that some moisture got in the fuel lines and froze. So it not getting enought fuel. As it is, if we squirt some fuel into the throttle body, it will kick over a lot more than without. This is what leaves us to believe it is a fuel problem. there is also a little bit of a thud around the mass air sensor after a few seconds of turning it over.

Please help if you have any inpout at all. Thank you!

-Loren

I would get an ohms meter and start checking continuity on all electrical parts for instance your cold start valve should have 2 to 4 ohms etc..

As I was reading your loooooong story I was thinking the timing belt is not timed properly but then you said you have a "THUD"! Is this every rotation?
Remove all the plugs and rotate the engine it should "spin" freely without any "thuds" if there is then there is a mechanical obstruction, mechanical can also be a "fluid block" as in coolant entering the cylinder, with the plugs out you will see this problem.

Check the belt alignment VERY CLOSELY.

As I was reading your loooooong story I was thinking the timing belt is not timed properly but then you said you have a "THUD"! Is this every rotation?
Remove all the plugs and rotate the engine it should "spin" freely without any "thuds" if there is then there is a mechanical obstruction, mechanical can also be a "fluid block" as in coolant entering the cylinder, with the plugs out you will see this problem.

Check the belt alignment VERY CLOSELY.

No its not a mechanical thud. Its more of a subtle one coming from the air flow sensor. And its only after its been cranked over for a few seconds. It is timed properly.

Like I said before, It has run for 10 seconds or so, but then dies.

What is the 4Runners starting procedure? What valves/sensors does it use to start? Can someone give me a link to show me the electrical?

Ask yourself the question: what is causing the asymmetrical noise emanating from the throttle body?
Did you try spinning with out the plugs?
An engine is ALL mechanical and any noise coming back up the intake should be investigated as to what is causing it. EXSPECIALLY on a new assembly.
360 degrees of rotation should be the same what is causing the airflow “thud”?
Have you rechecked the timing belt alignment it is very easy to have this off one tooth or the cams one tooth apart.

It isn't an obstruction. It sounds like it is coking from under the back half-moon spahe cover that is siliconed on. I opened it up before and saw that there is some mechanical things in there. I think that is may be coming from there and that it is normal. Myabe 'thud' was the wrong word, its more of a bold clicking. I will pull the timing cover off again and check but I am damn sure its proper.

There are sticky posts at the top of this forum:
1993:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/ignition.html
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/bodyelectrical.html

Look through these.

If you removed the top of the MAF it is probably ruined I have never had to open that up nor is designed to be opened.
Do you have at least 40lbs of fuel pressure? It NEEDS at least that much to open the injectors when the electrical pulse is applied.

There is a procedure for checking this in the stickies. The fuel pump will not engage until air flowing through the MAF has caused a deflection of the vane.

Step back to the basics, there is no "special procedure" for starting this motor.

Awesome those are the links I was looking for, I new I saw them somewhere :rolleyes: .

About the cap on top of the MAF, the first time around it wouldn't start (before new block) and someone said the connections in there can be disrupted from move the MAF around. So I looked into it and sure enough, this was the problem, there was two connections clearly touching (they didnt look like there were suppose to be) so I seperated them and tried it and she fired up.

I am still trying to get a hold of a fuel rpessure gauge. It sqirts pretty good when you release the easily accessable fuel real bolt on the front, driver's side, the best comparison i can think of is like a shook up pop can.

Yeah I had the same fuel delivery problem but it was NOT enough to force the injectors open.

The best place to tap into the fuel system is at the "banjo" connector at the cold start injector.
There is a double long fitting made by an after market company that will allow two banjo fittings to be placed there.
I went to a junk yard and ask it I could look through their aluminum scrap pile of intakes and found one. They wont part out a good manifold but if you're willing to do the work.
The same after market company will charge around three hundred dollars for the fuel pressure tester, but only charge around $20 for the longer hollow bolt.

Ok, the "VAF" meter checks out except for the resistance between terminals THA and E2. It sais I am suppose to have .9 - 1.3 kΩ. But the multimeter just sais LC or something, the same thing it sais when its touching nothing. Maybe the multimeter can't read kΩ?


http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/92volumeai.pdf

Ok so go after the logical show stoppers first. the resistance measurement will not keep your engine from starting. The ECU will default to settings that will at least start the motor.
You have said that you have fuel but don't know if the pressure is correct. So that means that the “measuring plate is moving enough to start the fuel pump.

What is you fuel pressure?
Do you have a good spark, AT THE END of the plug wire?
Is the timing belt aligned precisely?
Are the intake gaskets installed properly?
The Injector boots were they replaced? (used ones are brittle and won’t seal as they should)
Were the injectors cleaned or at least tested?
Is the “Cold Start Injector” malfunctioning? Or not functioning at all.

You can spend a lot of time doing a lot of good measurements but at this point stick with the basics.

Ok, i got it running.

Now the probelm is that, when it does idle, it idles at around 400-500 and shakes pretty bad. The distributor is in the right spot, the timing light show the marks bouncing between 5 and 8 advanced. When I give it gas it revs up slowly and as soon as it hits 1k it makes a noise that sounds like the flapper thing inside the vaf. It also makes the same noise here and there while its idling, and then when it dies, it makes the noise quite a bity louder. I cannot be certain about the location of the noise while its running, but when it dies, it is definetly the flapper inside the vaf slamming shut.

I don't doubt that it IS the flapper inside the MAF but it is being "slammed" by the fluctuating air movements from the intake.

Did you sys you hasd rechecked the timing alignment of the belt?

Something is causing "reverse" air flow OUT the intake to cuase the flapper to slam. This could be caused by incorrect timing too advanced?
Are you absolutly sure of the timing belt because it will run one tooth off.

When checking the belt ALWAYS turn the engine CLOCKWISE using the CRANKSHAFT ONLY!!
NEVER PULL THE BELT TIGHT "THROUGH" THE TENSIONER. That will result in what appears to be a missalignment or cuase erroneous placement of the belt.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/bumperlt/18e2b36c.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/bumperlt/e093ef14.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/bumperlt/a9dd4c9f.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/bumperlt/bcfac1d0.jpg


Sorry for the shitty pictures, I dont have my camera on me. I am going to do a compression test in a few minutes.

Well it looks like you have the correct timing.
See what your compression test shows.
What were your valve setup tolerances that you measured during assembly?
Are all the pucks in place? Porperly?
Keep posting
When you find it we aill all probably say, "DUH"

The compression test yielded some very bad things. 2 4 and 6 have low compression anywhere form 40psi to 120. I had a mechanic friend rebiuld the block and adjust the valves and torque down the heads. I did everything else. So low compression is the culprit.

BUT! The fact it being 2-4-6 don’t you find that interesting?
Check your valve train for that head. Get out your feeler gauges and check you valve clearances and OPERATION. If it was just LOW compression it would NOT be causing reverse air flow in the intake, know what I mean?
Make damn sure that cam pulley is properly installed.
These aluminum heads need to have the valve clearances set AFTER the head is torqued down on the block. (This wont be the cause of your problem, just something to know.
What was your head bolt torque down procedure?

Take a look at the valve adjustment procedure in this link:
It is is one of the sticky posts brian has provided at the top of this forum.

Pages EG2-19 & up.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/64tuneup.pdf

I would bet you have a bad head gasket on the 246 side.