RWHN

Hi, this is my first post and looking for some opinions.

I recently had my Blazer serviced at the dealership for some heat related issues. While there they did a 20 point inspection and listed some issues they thought needed addressing. Two in particular were 4x4 service and the replacement of the left front hub. My question, would those two (or one or the other) possible cause this new symptom I've discovered which is a slight grinding from the front. I'm guessing probably yes and I know I need to get the 4x4 serviced anyway because it definitely is not working correctly.

My ABS indicator light also came on. Any possible connection? And I think I know the answer to this question but the dealership wants to charge me $800 for those two fixes would I most likely find a substantially better deal at a local mechanic? Thanks in advanced for any and all opinions.

2kTrailBlazer

Hey , i have a blazer right now with 99k on it. just blew my front dif, but prior to getting bad enough so i could tell where the noise was comming from. it made a bearing noise i have replaced both my bearings my self. if you are mechanicly inclined it should not be a problem for you to do it your self. and yes the part it self is verry expensive and yes your abs is tied into your bearing. a sure way to tell if the bearing is making the noise is drive on the highway or something and vere left if the noise is when you turn left it is a bad right bearing...why the right? bc you put all the weight on the right side.
and vise versa. if you always have the noise then its possible both r bad or its not a bearing. i would recomend you replace it your self.if you want i can give you a brief how-to for a late model blazer. i never pay nebody for something that i might be able to do myself.

RWHN

Well, I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but I haven't had much experience with automobiles outside of changing tires and bulbs.

Actually, I'm quite green at just understanding about different parts for autos. In this case, I have to admit, I'm not sure I understand what the "hub" is that my dealer says has to be replaced. I mean, I assume it has something to do with the wheels but can anyone help explain it to me in more specific terms?

As far as my grinding it really isn't making a sound. Well, it probably is but I'm not "hearing" it. It's more like I'm feeling it through my feet. There is a little bit of a clunk if I have to do some sharp turning like when backing out of a parking spot. It seems to happen mostly when I'm turning the wheel to the right to back up in a right direction.

But anyway, if I do have to resort to a mechanic, which I most likely will due to my inexperience, can I suspect a substantial difference in labor costs between a dealer and a non-dealer mechanic?

2kTrailBlazer

yes usually you can, dealers are usually more expensive, you actually have a bearing assembly, and what that is and why it it so expensive: it is a bearing and hub all in one assembly. go to that link if it doesnt load and what is in the guys hand is what your hub assembly looks like. your abs sensor wire gos directly to this part. your half shat gos into the bearing and that is how your 4x4 moves the front wheels, inorder to allow the wheels to move freely there has to be a bearing .

RWHN

Thanks, that at least gives me a clearer understanding as to what could be happening. I really don't think I'd feel comfortable to even attempt to mess around with that. Not to mention I don't really even have the equipment or the space to do that. But thanks for the input. I don't feel as lost as I did.

muddog321

AutoZone has Timken 4wd hub for $115. Dealer hub is 4x more. Most shops all charge same book rate on a job.
Need a 36mm socket for the CV axle plus an 18mm box end for the brake caliper, bracket, and the 3 hub bolts. The rotor should come off after the brake caliper bracket is removed. The Pic above gives you the idea but its not a Blazer. The 3 hub bolts are from the rear side of the spindle. If you have a floor jack and jack stands its easy. Support the Blazer frame on a jack stand before you mess with the wheel and hub. Oh, you need a 3 lb hammer and block of wood (or a 3lb dead shot plastic hammer - a Blazer must have tool to beat on them without damage, rusted on rotors too) to free the CV shaft after you take the 36mm nut off. The ABS sensor is built into the hub and follow the wire up to the connector on the frame. Its messy from the brake dust, grease, and rust but fairly easy repair if you are so inclined.

jkdon

hey

I had some similar grinding and all it end up being was the dust shield, The thing was rusting and falling a part, I cut the bad piece off with a dremel and haven't heard a grind since

Jkdon

billibong

Another thing that could cause the grinding is a dragging brake. What I mean by that is that the caliper could be stuck and make the brakes not completely release. If that is the problem, it would be a lot cheaper to repair, and something that you could probably do at home with only a few basic tools.

__________________
billibong
99 4X4 Blazer LS Vin W
Repairs:
U/L Ball Joints, I/O Tie Rod Ends, New Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves, New Idler Arm, R & L Front Hubs, R & L Upper CA Bushings, New Gabriel Ultramax Shocks (what a difference)
F & R Brakes and Rotors at 110,000.
Infinity Speakers to replace the blown factory sets.
162K+ and still kicking.