JamesTheScot

Back in December i got into the car and put the key in the ignition. As i turned the key to start, the dash and dome lights blinked, flickered, there was a clicking noise behind the speedo and then the car went dead...i mean stone dead.

I'd wait a few minutes and get back in and the dome lights would come on like nothing happened. But as soon as I'd turn the key to start the same thing would happen. After doing this for about 30 minutes, the battery finally got so weak the dome lights wouldn't come on. I had it towed and repair shop said the battery had a bad cell and replaced the Wal-Mart battery with a NAPA. Car started fine for a week or two and i parked it (it's my backup car). I went out last night and it is dead as dead. no lights, no clicks, no chirps, nothing. I can't even jump it...absolutely no power is going through at all. not even a faint dome light when trying to jump it.

Last time i had driven the car the clock stayed illuminated after i turned it off and pulled the key out. i couldn't remember if it always did that or not but i suspect it didn't.

any ideas? i hate to pull the battery out and accuse NAPA of making a crappy battery if its the car.

richtazz

you need to charge the battery, then check the car for a draw. 5-10milliamps is an acceptable draw (clock, radio memory, ECM), anything more than that and you have something drawing the battery dead. Once the battery is charged, take the negative cable off and put a test light between it and the battery terminal. IF the light illuminates, you have a draw. Pull the ECM and radio memory/clock fuses to eliminate them. Pull fuses one at a time until the light dims/goes out. You've just found a circuit that is causing your battery to go dead. Continue pulling fuses until the light goes out, and you've found all the circuits drawing current with the key off. Depending on the circuit, you've got some wiring to trace.

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Would you drive any better with that cell phone up your ...?!

JamesTheScot

do i need a special tester or will a current tester for household wiring do the same?

thanks for the help...and very quick at that!

i really like this car and hate to let go of it. i think this forum will be a big help!

JamesTheScot

update: pulled the battery...WHAT A PAIN IN THE ARSE!!!!!...and noticed a metric ton of corrosion (whitish-green fluffy stuff) eating away at the metal of the engine compartment right behind the driver-side headlight. the corrosion had eaten THROUGH the sheetmetal in a couple of places.

The battery looked OK (it was only 2 months old!) so i am not sure if the old battery leaked and the repair shop that diagnosed it as having a bad cell just didn't clean the corrosion up or the new battery leaked after they put it in. i neutralized the acid with baking soda and scrubbed down the affected areas with a toothbrush. NAPA said the new battery was dead as dead and replaced it.

so new-new battery went in this morning and car started. however, it took about 5 minutes of my foot hovering over the gas before the car would idle. It still sputters and almost stalls when idling in drive. I'll try the idle re-set if it doesn't clear up soon.