surferfletch

The truck was running ever so slightly rough the last month or so. I hadn't changed the plugs in awhile, so I figured I'd swap them out. I'm at 149,091 miles now. Here are a couple of tips for the 3.2L V6, mostly so I can refresh my memory and not waste any time next changeout.

1) The old Autolites were in for 20-30K. The gap had gone from .044" to about .049". The electrodes were tan in color. Until the last month the truck ran great with the cheapo Autolites.

2) Changing the spark plug tubes and seals didn't seem to make much difference in oil getting to the plugs. Plugs 2 and 4 were pretty wet on the threads. The rest were dry. Only #6 was getting much oil before I changed the tubes and seals.

3) Removing the coil packs is fairly straightforward. 5/16 for the hex head or a phillips head screwdriver. I had to use a small wrench for #6 near the brake booster. A 1/4" drive would work, but my 3/8 drive with a 5/16 wouldn't fit.

4) The only plug that is a little challenging to remove is the #6 plug by the booster. The easiest way I found to get it is to put a 3" extension on the plug socket and drop it in the tube. Then use another 3" extension to get the ratchet on it.

5) I put Champion 3701 plugs in. They are single electrode platinum. They are $3 each at Advance. I had planned to pick up the Champion truck plugs (4701), but they didn't have any in stock. Here is the Championsparkplugs.com page for the '97 3.2L:

http://www.championsparkplugs.com/re...p?AAIA=1176982.

The plug recommended by Isuzu is the double platinum RC10PYP4.

We'll see what happens with the single electrode platinum... Right now it's running smooth as butter!

rodeo02

fletch do the 1997's have coil-overs like the 1998+? (if so) How did the tubes/conductors(?) come out for you? Those were a bear on my 2002 3.2. I didn't swap the plugs yet, but I wrestled out all the plug tower tubes, lubed the tips with silicone grease and reinstalled them. The rubber REALLY sticks to the hot sparkplugs over time. I used two pairs of long needle nosed pliers to twist and yank those suckers out. Wound up ripping a small chunk off of #5, but it still works fine. Hopefully they will slide right out this spring/summer when I pull the sparkplugs to never-sieze them all.

G/luck
Joel

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2007 Chevy Cobalt LS 4dr, auto
2008 Honda Odyssey LX chick magnet
Gone but not forgotten : 2001 Ford Windstar LX, 2005 Trailblazer LS 4x4, 2002 Isuzu Rodeo LS 4x4 & and many more.

surferfletch

I do have the coil packs over each plug. They came out really easy, but I had this stuff all apart not long ago for the valve cover gaskets, etc. I remember being vary wary the first time I changed the plugs, though, because it was the first time with that setup, and they hadn't been changed in a long time. I had a more difficult time due to the rubber on the inside of the plug socket holding onto the plug. The extension would pull out of the socket when I tried to withdraw the socket from the tube. Another note to self: put a little oil on the inside of the socket to get the socket out after installation!

directory

yup..that's an old trick that i had to learn myself....

after running around panicing because i left the socket in the hole...i finally found a long enough clamp (dr.'s clamp from harbor frieght...don't remember why i bought that ) that grabbed it....

it always takes a learning curve to do small repair....

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99 passport 3.2L v6 DOHC auto-trans 4x4 modified IFS 10 bolt front/ dana 44 4.10 rear



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