georgelovesdirt

Hey I’m new to actually posting on these threads; I have a 95 blazer LT 4 door 2 wheel drive. Apparently they are the worst year for blazers? Mines not too bad my grandma gave it to. She bought it new in Tulsa and only put 40 thousand miles on it until she gave it to me in Jan 03. Then I proceeded to put 30 thousand New Jersey miles on it in one and a half years.
It has never gave me any problems aside from these 4 things:

1. the check engine light randomly comes on like once every couple months, then all I do is turn the car off for a second and turn it back on and its fine again.

2. The car sags slightly on the driver’s side, new springs? Not sure when this started. What caused this? It defiantly wasn’t me I weigh 140. Any way to fix this myself?

3. The power mirrors don’t work and it’s not the fuse, do I have to pull the door panel off and inspect all the connections?

4. The cat rattles and when I park the car I hear what I assume is the cat make a “pop” after a few moments. This happens soon when it’s cold out, but not for a few minutes when it’s warm out.

The reason I posted: I bought a new cat to slap on to fix problem number 4 and I got everything unbolted and ready to go but the stock cat wont slide off the header pipe, I assume it’s just rusted tight and the cat is crimped hard onto it. How do I get that darn cat to come off? I tried banging it with a hammer, no movement.

Also, is there anything I should immediately check for or replace on this old and supposedly fragile blazer? It’s served me well and I’d like for it to continue to serve me well for years to come.

wolfox

You'll have to cut it off. I replaced mine on my '95 and it was welded in place from the factory. The new one was put into place by scavenging and flaring the stainless steep pipe "pigtail" left stuck on the inlet from the old one, seam welding it onto the new one and trimming a flared fitting which was then welded over the old collector pipe leading down from the header. I eyeballed it mostly, but it's not a hard job to do.

georgelovesdirt

I don’t have access to a welder. Am I boned?

534BC

If the cat was held on with a regular exhaust type (u-bolt & saddle) clamp then you are correct. It is kinda crimped together. It is real difficult to get it off without cutting, but cvan be done with a big torch. The part that was crimped with the clamp has to be heated cherry red ans then the cat can be driven off with a large block of wood and/ or hammer. I would question whether or not you need a new cat though as it may be just a heat sheild tinking and making noise.

On your ride hieght you have noticed is common to the blazer and probably most vehicles because of the driver side being weighted more so than the pass side. How heavy was your Grandma? sorry couldn'r resist.

Here's what I did on both my blazers. On the '91 I put a 2-3" lift kit in rear making sure to install all the leaves with the most arc on the driver's side.

On both the '91 and the '95 I cranked up the driver's side torsion bar to help level it out, Kinda cheating perhaps, but I am lazy and the back of the '95 was not setting too low like the '91 was so I did not want to take it apart.

If you do this it does put a bit more weight on the LF tire as well. I measured by putting on a flat level surface and then measured to the wheel weels.

dave92cherokee

If you don't have access to a torch to cut the cat off then you could find someone who has a sawzaw with a metal cutting blade and cut the pipe at about 1 1/2" before and after the cat then when putting the new one on go to the local auto parts store and get an exhaust pipe converter to use to connect the new cat to the old pipes and then 2 clamps in front and 2 clamps in back to hold it in place or if you have the money take it to an exhaust shop and they will replace the cat for you for pretty cheap since you already have a new one.

georgelovesdirt

Never mind I got the cat off by knocking off the u clamp off (it had a tiny tac weld to the cat) and using a dremel to carefully grind a slit down the cats front pipe, making sure not to go far enough to cut the pipe inside it. Then I sprayed the living shit outta it with wd-40 and waited. Then I came back with my big guns and a hammer and banged that sucker off.

I’m pretty sure it is the cat because when I took it to a mechanic to get it looked at he said that was the problem. Also depending on the temp it will rattle at varying volumes when I accelerate or apply gas.

When I put the new cat on it didn’t line up completely flush with the muffler, it was a little to the left. I just bolted it on anyway and now the muffler and the cat are tight in there rubber hanger bracket thingies (sorry I don’t know what they are called). Is it a problem that they are tight? Will it make any part of the exhaust break easier?

Also when I started it up the radio (the single CD player one) would turn on and all the knobs worked accept the volume and the tune knob, it just stays on the lowest volume setting and turning the tune knob wouldn’t do anything, but pressing it would change it from am to fm.

534BC

Nice job and good thinking. Don't throw it away, it may be worth a couple hundred bucks as a core. If not I will buy it from you for junk if you will sell.

georgelovesdirt

534BC did you get my email about the cat?

534BC

Yes, I did thanks but I tried to e-mail you direct and it came back undeliverable , so I tried to e-mail you thru this forum and it said that you do not accept e-mails thru here. A last resort was to send you a PM. I had asked for a pic to make sure it was exactly the same as mine and the only difference between our blazers is that mine's a 4wd. I also liste dmy e-mail in the pm so that you may send me a pic.

Possibly someone else here may know if 4wd and 2wd is the same cat conv?

georgelovesdirt

sorry about that i just sent the pics, i guess just keep pming me my email setting sneed adjustment i guess.