Need help quickly - electrical problem?

blazindave · 01-05-2006, 09:09 AM

Hey, its been a while since I posted, but I hope you guys can help me out...

So yesterday after work, my car won't start. damn. it jumps off just fine, I drive around for a little while, park it and shut if off, hoping that the battery was just low and that it has charged up some. Before I went to bed last night, I checked it, and the battery was reading a good 12 volts. So I figure it will probably be okay. This morning, however, same thing... won't start. Checked again, the battery still has 12 volts. However, when I first looked at it, the voltage between the negative post on the battery and the red positive post for jump starts above the fuse box was very low, like around 2 V. That should be 12 also, right? Okay, so I figure I got a fuse blown or somehting.... checked all the fuses, and they all check out. I am thinking it could be one of the relays maybe? how can I check that, and which one is most likely?

I was thinking perhaps there is something wrong with my alarm (maybe a short or something) and it could be draining the battery. but after seeing 12V on it this morning, I don't think anything is draining the battery, nor do I think the battery is bad.

starter maybe? seems like it still shouldn't have started right up when I was getting jumped yesterday though.

I need help with this quick, as I now have no ride to work...

Thanks in advance, you guys are great!

BNaylor · 01-05-2006, 09:36 AM

The remote stud at the top of the engine compartment fuse box is supposed to have 12v at all times as long as the battery is connected and good. You may have a bad positive cable or maybe the ground you were referencing to was not good. In the engine compartmet fuse box is a crank relay so check for 12v there at the relay socket. The ignition switch must be at start position. BTW - The ignition switch precedes the crank relay so that is a possibility too. Also check for 12v at IGN MAIN 1 fuse which is the input to the ignition switch.

Also you can check for 12v at the starter and starter solenoid. At solenoid there is a purple wire which is the S input. There should be 12v present with ignition in start. Also starter has a hard wire 12v red or black cable which has 12v present at all times since it is a direct connection from the battery positive. That way you can check to see if theft deterrent is the cause or possibly neutral/park - transmission range switch problems or if it is a bad starter/solenoid. Good luck!

blazindave · 01-05-2006, 09:48 AM

I will check all that out tonight --> THANKS!

BNaylor · 01-05-2006, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazindave

I will check all that out tonight --> THANKS!

No problem and you are welcome. If you need further assistance just let me know. Just send me a PM later and I can send you a block wiring diagram so you can see the ignition/starter circuit to properly troubleshoot.

blazindave · 01-05-2006, 10:01 AM

oh, forgot to mention...

I used the negative post on the battery as the ground reference when checking the voltage at the remote stud. When I checked it this morning after I tried to start it (with no luck) it was the really low value... However, when I checked it again a few minutes later, the voltage was significantly higher, approaching a good 12V... hmmm... I feel a bad relay... at least I hope thats all it is?

Also, the reason I was thinking it might be the theft deterrent is because I noteced last night that it was acting a bit screwy. Sometimes when I push the unlock and lock buttons in the right (or, wrong?) way (I can't remember the exact sequence, because I was just kind of pushing them alternately trying to see if it would lock/unluck/etc), the lights will start flashing as if the alarm is going off, but without the horn going off...

I was also thinking it could be something wrong with the kill switch that was installed by the previous owner... Guess it still could be, but I don't know... Ususally if I try to crank it without holding the kill switch, it just does nothing --> no clicks, no turn-over, no faint lights on the dash, etc... not the same as it is acting now...

BNaylor · 01-05-2006, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazindave

oh, forgot to mention...

I used the negative post on the battery as the ground reference when checking the voltage at the remote stud. When I checked it this morning after I tried to start it (with no luck) it was the really low value... However, when I checked it again a few minutes later, the voltage was significantly higher, approaching a good 12V... hmmm... I feel a bad relay... at least I hope thats all it is?

Also, the reason I was thinking it might be the theft deterrent is because I noteced last night that it was acting a bit screwy. Sometimes when I push the unlock and lock buttons in the right (or, wrong?) way (I can't remember the exact sequence, because I was just kind of pushing them alternately trying to see if it would lock/unluck/etc), the lights will start flashing as if the alarm is going off, but without the horn going off...

I was also thinking it could be something wrong with the kill switch that was installed by the previous owner... Guess it still could be, but I don't know... Ususally if I try to crank it without holding the kill switch, it just does nothing --> no clicks, no turn-over, no faint lights on the dash, etc... not the same as it is acting now...

How old is your battery? Winter/cold weather affects them. You might consider getting it tested at Autozone or similar place for free to rule it out.

If battery is good it sounds like some component is loading the 12v down.

blazindave · 01-06-2006, 01:54 PM

hm. my update didn't get posted for some reason. it was simply corrosion on the battery terminal/terminal ring... took it off and cleaned it real well... fixed it right up --> thanks for the help though!

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