vwtoyhonda

I need some help; I have a 95 toy cam not running well. I have replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter, and pulled and tested the fuel pump. The car starts but soon stalls, I’ve pulled the plugs and they are black and fuel fouled I’ve cleaned them several times and the car runs for a short while(about an hour) and then dies. I saw someone talking about the distributor leaking oil, I did see an oranges grease under the rotor however the guys at AutoZone said this was normal, but my car still doesn’t run, also AutoZone said they could not read codes from a 95 only 96 and newer any ideas???

Toysrme

They can read codes from a 94+ v6. The 1mz-fe was the world's first compliant engine. Tel them it's a 97.

You shouldn't be reading codes if you don't have any. If you have codes, read your FAQ & Download your factory repair manuals. If you have codes, we can't help you if you don't tell us what they are. Use TE1 & E1 in the diagnostics port to make the CEL & O/D lights give up any stored codes.
You said you had a Dizzy, so I take it you have a 5s-fe. Download the '94 Camry FSM.


Sounds to me like you've simply got bad spark, or a vacuum leak.
It is almost unspeakably rare for anything in the Toyota fuel system to go bad. Including the fuel filter.

If you've got oil on the plugs it's leaking past the rings, the head gasket, or you're getting massive amounts of blow-by pushing it into the intake via the breather/PCV system.





If you don't see fresh oil on the plugs when you pull one, you don't have an oil leak that will amount to anything inside the engine.

Check for vacuum leaks & replace the rotor & dizzy cap. Test the dizzy, coil & MAF.

__________________
Toysrme257th - AIM about anything, anytime; including v6 turbos.
World's second ES 300/3vz-fe Turbo.

vwtoyhonda

there is no oil on the plugs. the enging is a 2.2 four, can i still get codes from it

Daniel M. Dreifus

*94 camry stalling problem
All 3 messages in topic - view as tree * - * 2 new

lesnesman@comcast.netDec 29, 6:40*am * show options
Newsgroups: alt.autos.toyota.camry
From: "lesnes...@comcast.net" <lesnes...@comcast.net> - Find messages by this author
Date: 29 Dec 2005 06:40:53 -0800
Local: Thurs, Dec 29 2005 6:40*am
Subject: 94 camry stalling problem
Reply |Reply to Author| Forward| Print| Individual Message| Show original| Report Abuse


This appears to be a very common problem with 90's camry's and I wanted
to post how I fixed the problem. I tried a couple of mechanics and none
were able to diagnose the problem. Fortunately a guy on the UK toyota
owners group figured this out. His name is Ive and he is from British
Columbia (just wanted to give him credit). His mechanic found the
problem by running diagnostics on the car as it was running.

The symtoms of this problem are that when the car is started and is
cold the car runs fine. Once the car warms up a bit it will stall
whenever you stop. Also some people complain that they smell a strong
odor of gasoline.

The problem is the coolant temperature sensor. These are consistently
fail in 90's camry's. When I went to the toyota dealership and asked
for a coolant temperature sensor the parts guy gave me this exploded
parts diagram of the engine that showed about 10 sensors that were
abbreviated. That confused the hell out of me. So I went to a local
parts store called VIP auto. They were very helpful. I told them I had
a 94 camry wagon 4 cylinder and they ordered a KEM brand coolant
temperature sensor part# 140-715. $35 part. I figured it was worth a
try.

This is how you find the sensor. Under the hood, top of the engine,
next to the valve cover, a little bit towards the driver side is 3
different sensors. Quick connect wire couplings come off the top of
each sensor. I figured out which sensor it was by looking at the
connector on the replacement part. On my car it was the sensor closest
to the center of the car. Squeeze a clip on the sensor and the coupling
comes apart. The sensor threads into the coolant output line coming out
of the block of the engine. I used a 3/4" box wrench to loosen the
sensor. Since the sensor is above the rest of the coolant system,
barely any coolant comes out of the pipe AS LONG AS THE CAR IS COLD.
Out with the old, in with the new and my problems are completly solved.
This is a brass sensor so don't overtorque it. Just get it snug.

I was so appreciative of the guy who posted the fix, I felt it was my
duty to post the fix for more people on google groups. I hope this
helps some people like it did for me. Good LUCK!

==============
(copied from another group - not my words)

Mike Gerber

First of all, you can test the ECT sensor with a DVM (digital volt/ohmeter), using the specs from the downloadable generation 3 manual at the top of this forum. Toyota calls the coolant temperature sensor an ECT sensor. That's short for engine coolant temperature sensor. You can ask for an ECT sensor for your car at the dealer, if you like using OEM. This is one area where I feel the aftermarket is just as good, IMHO. It was the Toyota OEM one that has failed, if this is actually your problem.

Second, every ECT sensor I have seen on a Toyota has a GREEN PLASTIC CONNECTOR on it. That should help people indentify which one it is.

Good luck.

Mike

Toysrme

Whhhhhaaaaat!? I'm sorry. Your mechanic on the newsgroup doesn't know what he's talking about.
The coolant temp sensor on both OBD-I & OBD-II Toyota computers is NOT a a main tuning device use dby the ECU.
If the CTS reads under 156-165*F the ECU runs in open-loop mode (Unless the o2 sensors are warmed to temp) increases fuel trim slightly to speed warming of the cats. (A richer mixture won't burn completely, burning in the exhaust - burning fuel is hot - cat get's hot in a hurry)
Most limit gear choices out of overdrive & hold max rpm to 4000-4500-5000rpm.

The coolant temp sensor is used for TWO THINGS that the end users interprits. 1 = TRIM FUEL. It can change - AT MOST 6% total fuel rich, or about 3-4% lean. 2 = Idle speed. The ECU wants to warm thes ystem up quicker, so if you're sending a cold CTS signal, the idle will increase from 600-750rpm up to around 1500rpm if it's really reading off.



I don't care if you unplug the dang thing, or if you send a 10v signal (More than twice out of spec) down the line. The car WILL run and WILL NOT stall.





The CTS sensor is exactly like the water pumps & radiators. They're NOT problem prone, or porly designed parts. The problem is that nobody follows a correct coolant maintenance schedule. Things gum up, gel up, and both the liquied & the dry deposites are corrosive.
If you don't change your coolant religiously, it simply eats parts away. Radiators burst as pressure rises from being gelle dup & it get's eaten away. Water pump fins are eaten off, the CTS output changes.

__________________
Toysrme257th - AIM about anything, anytime; including v6 turbos.
World's second ES 300/3vz-fe Turbo.