This "how to" covers removal and installation of a water pump on 96+ vehicles with the 4.3L V6 Vin "W". Some of you may recognize this procedure, because I've posted it several times. Thanks to DevilMan13xx for taking pics to add to it, I believe that it is now threadworthy.
1)Drain the coolant:
2)Remove the shroud:
7-10 mm bolts
the other 3 are on top in the front, cant miss em
no shroud
3)Remove the fan and clutch:
There is no need to separate the fan from the clutch. The whole thing threads on to the end of the water pump. I don't know the size, because rather than break out all my wrenches, I just grabbed an 18 inch crescent wrench. Place the wrench on the nut and tap loose with a hammer. the tapping will break it loose. You have to tap it, if you just try to loosen it, the belt won't hold it and the whole thing will turn. After it breaks loose just spin it off.
no fan or clutch
4)Break loose the bolts holding the pulley on:
4- 13 mm or 1/2" bolts
Just break them loose, don't remove them
5) Remove the serpentine belt
6) Remove the pulley:
Finish removing the bolts holding the pulley and remove the pulley
7) Disconnect the hoses
MAKE SURE YOU HOLD ONTO THE PLIERS!
8) Remove the old pump:
4-14 mm or 9/16" bolts
9) Clean the surface:
Remove all traces of the old gasket.
It would be a good idea to flush out the block and heater core while you're at it.
10) Install new pump:
Apply a bead of blue Permatex around the holes on both sides of the gaskets, put them on the pump and insert the bolts through the holes to hold the gaskets in place. Carefully lower the pump in to position. Thread the bolts into the block and snug them. Then remove the bolts one at a time, add the permatex to the threads, and then reinsert. (only do one at a time so that the pump doesn't shift and disturb the mating surfaces) Then tighten all the bolts.
11) Reinstall everything in reverse.
There will be a lot of air trapped in the system, so after you fill it, get the engine to operating temperature, shut it off, let it cool, then add more. The air trapped in the system can cause your engine to over heat if left unattended.
I suggest filling the system with water only and run it like that for a day or two just to make sure there are no leaks. That way you don't waste your antifreeze if you have to do further repairs.
and your done.. should look simliar to this with no left over parts
Looks great blazee.... Gonna link this off the how-to links on my site...
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95 s10 Blazer, EGR Mod, ZQ8 Steering box mod, 99 Center console shifter mod and more... See everything at www.pghconsulting.net/teal
Excellent post Blazee. Love the pictures, makes it soo much easier to understand what is going on.
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billibong
99 4X4 Blazer LS Vin W
Repairs:
U/L Ball Joints, I/O Tie Rod Ends, New Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves, New Idler Arm, R & L Front Hubs, R & L Upper CA Bushings, New Gabriel Ultramax Shocks (what a difference)
F & R Brakes and Rotors at 110,000.
Infinity Speakers to replace the blown factory sets.
162K+ and still kicking.
I couldn't get the fan clutch off mine. The shop said he used an air chisel with a flat bit to start the nut off.
For the 96+ you can use the ford fan clutch removal tool from any loan-a-tool (advance, autozone, pepboys, etc.) makes life easier for them.
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95 s10 Blazer, EGR Mod, ZQ8 Steering box mod, 99 Center console shifter mod and more... See everything at www.pghconsulting.net/teal
For the 96+ you can use the ford fan clutch removal tool from any loan-a-tool (advance, autozone, pepboys, etc.) makes life easier for them.
Live and learn.
BTW, I was leaving for VA beach the next morning. I called a few places down there and they beat the labor install price by $100 compared to anyone local, I already had the parts. So I loaded up on antifreeze and drove down, was just a small leak anyways.
Blazee, this is excellent! One other tip I would add is to place a piece of cardboard or something between the fan the radiator as you are disassembling it; I ruined my radiator when the fan accidentally slipped and gouged one of the core tubes.
Last edited by blazee : 10-01-2006 at 07:08 AM.
Reason: Removed quote of entire procedure.
Wow! Great advice and instruction! I have been postponing replacement of my waterpump for about a year now....maybe this will give me the jump I need!
Does the thermostat play at all into this procedure? If not, do any of you all know where in the system I can find the thermostat? And do you know if there are any other standard parts that I'm going to need when replacing it?
Also, when replacing the waterpump.....Do you use both paper gaskets that come with the waterpump AND gasket seal?
Wow! Great advice and instruction! I have been postponing replacement of my waterpump for about a year now....maybe this will give me the jump I need!
Does the thermostat play at all into this procedure? If not, do any of you all know where in the system I can find the thermostat? And do you know if there are any other standard parts that I'm going to need when replacing it?
Also, when replacing the waterpump.....Do you use both paper gaskets that come with the waterpump AND gasket seal?
Chadwick
Follow your upper rad hose to the engine intake. Inside that housing is your thermostat.
Yes, use both gaskets (1 each side) and you can use a little rtv to hold them in place while you mount the pump.
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95 s10 Blazer, EGR Mod, ZQ8 Steering box mod, 99 Center console shifter mod and more... See everything at www.pghconsulting.net/teal
Thanks to everyone who put in advice on this page I replaced both my waterpump and my thermostat sans incident today during the Superbowl!
Thank you all!
Balloon Bomber
Worm Race
