WOKDonut

Have a 93 Lumina Euro 3.1. When getting my tires rotated the shop informed me that my rear brakes weren't functioning. They want 1200 bucks to replace Calipers, Pads, and Rotors. Not sure I wanna pump that much more into my car, but need it to get through August.

I'm wondering if someone has a clue as to why they wouldn't be working. My guess is it's the calipers. Pads are new, and the rotor looks fine. I know the Luminas have a lot of common problems so figured someone might have had this problem already. Will replacing the caliper do the job?

Thanks.

jeffcoslacker

Yeah, caliper and hardware. Real common problem, the slides rust up, and they stop working.

I'd just put a set of loaded calipers on it and be done with it. Make sure you put some Syl-Glide or something on the moving surfaces of the slides, or it'll be that way in a few months again.

Set the parking brake from time to time, at least once a week to keep them freed up and adjusted.

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You made three mistakes. First, you took the job. Second, you came light. A four man crew for me? F**king insulting. But the worst mistake you made...

...empty gun rack.

WOKDonut

Any hint on where the adjustment screw is for the brakes? Calipers seem to be sliding ok, but they aren't putting very much pressure on the rotor (I can still spin it by hand).

How hard is it to replace the Parking Brake and is it necessary... It isn't working either.

Schurkey

The parking brake IS the adjuster for the rear calipers. That's why you MUST use it periodically.

The park brake actuates a mechanical screw in the caliper that pushes the piston out. When re-lining the caliper, you have to screw the piston back in.

If it was me, I'd spend ten minutes kicking the park brake pedal and releasing it. It "should" adjust more-or-less instantly, but some repitition won't hurt.

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jeffcoslacker

Shurkey is right...I've personally soaked a stuck caliper with WD-40 and pumped the e-brake and brought them back to life, but I had them off and pulled the dust boot back from the piston and "injected" it with WD.

If you take that one off and wind the piston in with the tool, it'll sound like crushing grit as it breaks the rust free, and with a little luck it'll come back out as you use the e-brake.

Not the proper way to deal with it...but I have done it with some success for people who couldn't afford the correct repair.

I'm suprised the caliper floats, that's usually the first action to go, then the piston seizes. Make sure you don't have a stretched/busted park brake cable on that side.

__________________
You made three mistakes. First, you took the job. Second, you came light. A four man crew for me? F**king insulting. But the worst mistake you made...

...empty gun rack.

WOKDonut

That was kinda the conclusion that we came to after looking at it for a while. When Pumped the E-brake does move the caliper/pad, but there is little to no pressure on the rotor. I'm pretty sure the cable is broken; it's hanging down. Kinda suprised it even moves at all.

Now I just have to wait for Christmas to fix it... literally. Thanks for the help.