abcabc

My son has a 98 Dodge Neon 2.0 DOHC. Was running fine then all of a sudden it won't start. Cannot get it started by jumping it but it will start if you pop start. Changed the Starter and the relays but still nothing. It clicks but won't turnover. Check engine light is on also. Any one have any ideas what to try next. Today we tried the safety neutral switch. Seems to be fine. Had battery tested. Would not hold a charge so we replace it with a new battery. Husband says all wires are testing fine. Running out of ideas. Please Help!!

das2123

If the check engine light is on, check for the codes. Do the key dance and see what codes you get and post back.

To read any OBD codes, perform the following sequence.

1) Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds.
2) Count the number of times the 'Check Engine' lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

abcabc

Two codes come up. 12 and 55 Do they mean anything to you.

das2123

12 = Battery has been disconnected in the last 50 key on cycles
55 = End of codes

So there are no trouble codes popping up...You replaced the battery and starter right? Did you check the starter relay? Try checking the relay by swapping it out with horn relay. After you put the starter relay in the horn spot, honk the horn. If it honks, it's good, if it doesn't, you will need to replace it.

Also check and double check for corrosion on the terminals or wires and make sure all the connections are REAL tight. The neon is real sensitive about this.

abcabc

Replaced the starter, battery, starter relay (We even switched it with the one for the horn to make sure it was good), and checked the safety neutral switch. Only thing we can think is maybe the new starter is no good??? Going to check that tomorrow. Cleaned the terminals and wires. Pretty sure the connection it tight. Will double check tomorrow when it is light.

palindromelol

Bad cable to starter?

AUTOUSA

It would not click at all if it had bad cable to starter....

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palindromelol

I have a 96 Neon. I had nearly the exact problem you describe. Click and no start. The Battery to Starter cable is capable of 150 amps current. To click the solenoid requires only 2-5 amps. The crank the starter, depending on the starter, can be up to 30 -50 amps.

If the cable is corroded, as mine was, so that a substantial fraction of the current carrying wires are broken, you will indeed get enough current to excite the solenoid but insufficient current to crank the starter.

The crack I had in my positive cable insulation initiated where the Positive cable is routed through a tab on the side of the battery enclosure. Vibration wear.....Corrosion propogated all the way to about half way to the starter. I lost about half of the conductors. Also, the Negative cable was bundled in the same harness and it was cracked. I was impossible to see because of the black wrapping material.

I replaced the positive, negative cables, and the 10 guage ground that links the battery to the frame just behind the radiator. If that ground is bad you will get trouble also.

Think of it... you should be able to short the pos and neg directly to the starter with jumper cables so long as the ignition is on. If you can start with the main feed cables jumpered, then you have a cable/termination problem.

There are 3 terminations on the starter motor.
1) Pos Batt on a big fat screw on the solenoid.
2) Neg Batt on the housing
3) Pos control on a tab on the POst post of the solenoid.

To short the starter around the solenoid you need to jumper the screws on the back of the solenoid. I used a 3/4" spanner completely covered with electrical tape except for the two tips of the spanner opening which I used to bridge the two screws. (Disable your fan!!)