ssodell

I have already had My truck lowered with this I-beam swap. I payed someone else to do it for me for 400.00 bucks. Before that I took the front suspension apart myself, I ran into a bolt I couldn't get apart. That bolt or joint would be where the whole rotor,brake and wheel are connected to the I-beam and I-beam with spring to the frame from there. It is some kind of pressure bolt or something with a c clip. This was about a couple years ago. I had it raised back up because I moved to another state(WA) and towed a trailer with all my stuff. So I want to lower it again and not have to pay so much money and just do it myself.

How do I get the I-beam seperated from the rotor or steering knuckle?

mrfixit64857

I wish you well. there are some things that are better left to the big boys with the big toys, as tooling up alone would cost more than getting it done. Last time did you use the drop-knuckle, or what? if so, adding some air shocks front and back may give you some leaway next time you want to haul something. That or forego lowering it and just put on a ground effects kit that can be removed when needed.

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ssodell

I actually do have ground effects on it now. So when it is lowered it looks real low. The time before I used a different set of ((4 inch(I think)) drop I-beams. And then 5 to 7 inch flip kit for the rear. I don't know how to put a picture on here or else I would show you what it looked like.

badassfocus1101

how did u put in the flip kit? do u have to cut the frame???? caz im wantin to lower my 88 f-150.. and i figured flip kit would be a good way

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oh, u got pistons.....ha u F****n blow, get rotors

ssodell

Well, I originally bought a flip kit which is just two matching seperate pieces of metal bent in the shape of a C or U, with a hole in the middle to align it to the axle.
What I did was rented a big jack(Big jack as in one size up from a little two ton) and set of jack stands to accomadate the bigger jack. I jacked it up from under the ring and pinion(I don't know if this is good but that's what I did) and put the stands under the frame. Leaving the Jack in place, I removed my leaf springs, jacked the axle up some more and re-attached them underneath the axle with the C-joints or whatever they are called C-brackets or something. Thats all. The factory C-bracket is welded on the top of the axle. You could flip your axle over, but then you would have to drive in reverse to go forward. And the alignment to the drive shaft would be off to.
And I drove around for a while with the front up in the air cause I couldn't lower that myself. I have noticed other guys driving around like that and wonder if they have done the same thing or they've got air bags or hydrolics. Anyway it doesn't take long, a couple hours. You have to remember to test drive it after you get it down and then tighten the U-bolts again when you get back from the drive.

ssodell

I didn't cut my frame at first and it was a little bumpy with hitting the bump stops all the time. I only had like one or two inches of clearance. But I finally bought another flip kit C-brackets with C-frame cut out bolt on deals. I had a metal shop cut out the frame a little to make room for these, I don't remember what they are called frame sections. But it gave me clearance up in there to go a little faster without bouncing off the ground. ha.

C-sections that's what it is C-sections

truck150

personally i would leave it to farctory specs or lift it . truck are made for off road and pulling. i could see lowering a car for better traction. but i dont understand the point of lowering a truck i think they look silly. dont take this personally just an opinion.