How to replace front control arm bushing?

guitarfish · 08-22-2005, 05:30 PM

I have a 1997 Grand Prix GT 3.8. Failed inspection today, they said the driver side front control arm bushing needs to be replaced. I have replaced wheel bearings on this car, but never anything "deeper" in the front end, so I'm not sure how to do this.

Does the entire control arm need to come out in order to replace one of the bushings?

Can I leave the brakes/rotor/wheel bearing intact, or does all that have to come out first?

Also - is a control arm also called a sway bar, or is that something different?

Thanks!

BNaylor · 08-22-2005, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guitarfish

I have a 1997 Grand Prix GT 3.8. Failed inspection today, they said the driver side front control arm bushing needs to be replaced. I have replaced wheel bearings on this car, but never anything "deeper" in the front end, so I'm not sure how to do this.

Does the entire control arm need to come out in order to replace one of the bushings?

Can I leave the brakes/rotor/wheel bearing intact, or does all that have to come out first?

Also - is a control arm also called a sway bar, or is that something different?

Thanks!

What state are you in? A little hardball aren't they?

To answer your question.....yes the control arm must be completely removed to change the bushings.

A control arm and sway bar are not the same. The sway bar is also called a stabilizer bar. The GP only has one control arm on each side a lower.

You should be able to leave the strut, hub assembly and brakes intact when doing a control arm job. But its a good idea to get the rotor and caliper out of the way. What holds the control arm to the steering knuckle and hub is the ball joint. There will be 2 bolts holding the control arm to the sub-frame.

A wrote up a procedure a while back on how to do it but can't remember the thread title.

Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

guitarfish · 08-22-2005, 07:55 PM

Hi, and thanks for the quick reply! I'm in PA. Just a little anal at the inspection station, ya know?

OK, so I'm going to on support the car on jack stands in my garage. I remove caliper and hang it out of the way, and take the rotor off, but I'm going leave the hub nut/wheel bearing alone, ditto for the strut.

Next - remove the control arm bushing bolts? They are Torx bolts (love those

) Remove each Torx bolt and slide out the control arm, while strut, etc. is still attached?

Assuming yes, then at that point I remove the bad bushing, pop the new one in, and put 'er back together?

I appreciate the help !!

BNaylor · 08-22-2005, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guitarfish

Hi, and thanks for the quick reply! I'm in PA. Just a little anal at the inspection station, ya know?

OK, so I'm going to on support the car on jack stands in my garage. I remove caliper and hang it out of the way, and take the rotor off, but I'm going leave the hub nut/wheel bearing alone, ditto for the strut.

Next - remove the control arm bushing bolts? They are Torx bolts (love those

) Remove each Torx bolt and slide out the control arm, while strut, etc. is still attached?

Assuming yes, then at that point I remove the bad bushing, pop the new one in, and put 'er back together?

I appreciate the help !!

Sounds like you'll do just fine. Here's a link where another guy had to remove his control arm. He got it done. Good luck!

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ht=control+arm

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD