My daughters 97 SL2 has a strange problem, the power locks are constantly cycling unlock. With car running, or off, with or with out key in ignition. I had to pull the unlock relay. Prior to pulling the relay, I could pause the unlock cycling by depressing the unlock switch on either of the car doors or the remote unlock. Any ideas?

A IMail acquaintaince mentioned a problem she recently started having on her 96 Saturn SW2. As the day wears on in the Texas heat around 3pm (getting hot!!) the locks sound like a weed whacker... Just buzzing away. Push the button and they pause but start back up again. Sounds like your problem. I also told her to pull the fuse before the motors burn up.

Did you have any luck finding your problem? I looked at my Grand-Am (another GM product) Haynes manuals and I saw nothing in the circutry that should be affected by ambient heat other than the RKE sensor and possibly a multi-function alarm module in the convenience center under the dash.

Also, I presume each time she approached her car she had the fob in her hand. I have not yet told her to try it without carrying the fob.

Anyway, I would appreciate any info you have.
Thanks, Bill

A IMail acquaintaince mentioned a problem she recently started having on her 96 Saturn SW2. As the day wears on in the Texas heat around 3pm (getting hot!!) the locks sound like a weed whacker... Just buzzing away. Push the button and they pause but start back up again. Sounds like your problem. I also told her to pull the fuse before the motors burn up.

Did you have any luck finding your problem? I looked at my Grand-Am (another GM product) Haynes manuals and I saw nothing in the circutry that should be affected by ambient heat other than the RKE sensor and possibly a multi-function alarm module in the convenience center under the dash.

Also, I presume each time she approached her car she had the fob in her hand. I have not yet told her to try it without carrying the fob.

Anyway, I would appreciate any info you have.
Thanks, Bill

Is the outside key on the driverside in the lock or unlock poisition? my 93 saturn does this only when the driver side key( operates power locks) is left in the unlock/ lock poisition with the key removed.


Cole
bucktodoe@yahoo.com

I haven't found the problem yet, this happens whether the key fob is near or not, this happens regardless of the positions of the locks. I heard that there is something called a body control unit or body control module that might have something to do with it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks to all.

had a similar problem on the buick, one of the plastic holding tabs on the door trim around the power lock button broke so on occaition after locking the door and slamming it shut the button would seat itself so the trim was pressing to the lock position

It does not appear to be a broken trim tab, broken switch etc. If you activate each door switch at each door they all work properly, even while the weed wacker noise and electronic switch is going on.

Cole, I wasn't totally clear on your response. Is the door lock in the lock or unlock position when the locks do their dance?

I was just informed that her door is in the unlock position. She does not know if it happens in the lock position because she is afraid to lock it.

And, she does not have a remote keyless entry key fob so that is not a factor. But, did this car originally come with a remote entry key fob? If so, it probably has a Remote Keyless Entry Sensor somewhere in the body or trim panels. And I bet this is about the only circutry that could be affected by ambient heat.

She just informed me that the buzzing stopped yesterday. And yet these were the two hottest days in Austin -- 104 degrees. Hmmmm...
Anyway, looking forward to hearing the solution to this one.
A good day to all ... Bill

Did you have any luck finding the problem? What I had said about possible temperature issues is not the case. Time of day and temp have no impact now. The driver's side door has finally stopped buzzing but the rest are still "active". Where is the problem?
Thanks, Bill

wiring problem, that all i could say without seeing the car. and the drivers door lock solenoid may have burned out.

**clearing the water from a previous post**

by the lock or unlock poisition I meant that if you have a worn key and can pull the key out of the drivers side door lock ( if it controls power locks) hole in the lock or unlock poisition ****not the up and down which is the only poisition the key should be able to be removed in**** this will make the motor continue to try to lock or unlock the door making the clicking --weedwhacker-- sound.

cole
bucktodoe@yahoo.com

**clearing the water from a previous post**

by the lock or unlock poisition I meant that if you have a worn key and can pull the key out of the drivers side door lock ( if it controls power locks) hole in the lock or unlock poisition ****not the up and down which is the only poisition the key should be able to be removed in**** this will make the motor continue to try to lock or unlock the door making the clicking --weedwhacker-- sound.

cole
bucktodoe@yahoo.com


in that case, then i would try with a good key, if that fixed the problem, replace the bad key, if not the key cylinder may be damaged.

This problem is more widespread than I thought. My daughter's 1993 SW2 does it. It baffled all of us for a while until I figured it out. The driver door lock cylinder is worn. (We tried a new key.) As long as the key slot is straight up and down after pulling out the key, it will be fine. Sometimes, the cylinder will turn itself slightly on bad roads, and make the gug-gug-gug-gug noise unexpectedly. She just stops, puts the key back in the door, and straightens it out.

The cheap fix is to take off the door skin and pull the electric connector on the cylinder. I haven't done that yet, but will when I have to pull the door skin for some other reason, like the window motor & regulator assembly.