My grandfather has a '92 2 litre Passat which we recently did a lot of work on as detailed in the last post.
We now have a problem with idle speed.
When we start the engine it will idle happily at 1000 rpm. However, if we blip the accelerator, the speed will rise with the blip and then stay at the speed it revved to. If the speed it below about 2000 it will then very gradually fall back to 1000. If the speed is above about 2000 then it will continue to rise by itself to about 3500. Putting a load on the engine causes it to come back down again, and switching it off and on also resets it.
We changed the "Idle stabalisation valve" because we had one lying around and it was easy to change, but it made no difference. We cant think what we might have done to cause this.
I'm not familiar with UK spec cars, does this have CIS-E fuel injection w/16 valve engine?
No, this is the 8 valve engine with fuel injection. I have forgotten the name of the ECM/fuel injection/electronic ignition system but it begins in d!
The problem has now become more severe, with it refusing to start on a regular basis when left standing for more than a few hours. The only way to get it to start is to hold the accelerator down right to the floor and crank it, which makes eventully fire and gradually pick up RPM.
We think we have a mixture problem. What could be causing this?
Probably Digifant, it wouldn't have braided steel fuel lines to the injectors then. There should be an air flow meter attached to the air filter housing, I would start with that. It has a 5-pin electrical connector (only four pins are used). Resistance beween pins #3 & #4 should be 500-1000 Ohms. Resistance between pins #2 & #3 should smoothly rise & fall as you open & close the air flow flap. Also, check for air leaks at the intake rubber hose.
Probably Digifant, it wouldn't have braided steel fuel lines to the injectors then. There should be an air flow meter attached to the air filter housing, I would start with that. It has a 5-pin electrical connector (only four pins are used). Resistance beween pins #3 & #4 should be 500-1000 Ohms. Resistance between pins #2 & #3 should smoothly rise & fall as you open & close the air flow flap. Also, check for air leaks at the intake rubber hose.
Yeah, thats the one, Digifant
Thanks, I will relay this information to the car owner.
Thanks, I will relay this information to the car owner.
Do you have any idea what could be causing the car to flood about 20% of the time at startup? (it just turns over and wont fire until you put your foot on the accelerator and hold it there for a while, and then when it does fire it runs lumpy and takes a while to build up RPM.
Actually it runs lumpy almost every time its started.
Also our central locking/clock fuse blows on a regular basis and the battery flattens itself every now and then?
That sounds like it, it should have brown/white & violet/black wires on it's harness. 17K Ohms across the sensor would cause the engine to run extremely rich.
Do you have any idea what could be causing the idle speed problem? It wasnt happening before we replaced the exhaust system, and whilst we were doing that we also cleaned the plugs, took the distributor apart and put it back, and we removed the big thick air intake pipes and put them back (we were trying to get to the fuel pressure regulator which we thought might have been causing our problem).
We think we must have damaged a vaccum line or something, but we have checked it all over and it looks fine.
