I was wondering if anyone recommends that I have my tranny flushed again at my high current mileage (188K). The first time I had the tranny flushed and filled with filter replacement was at 91,000. done by Dealer.

Or is it too late, and in doing so, do I risk slippage? Some local shops recommend I just leave as is because the old ATF carmelizes (getting thick) (Preventing slippage until tranny dies).

Ok, you need to go to another mechanic, he is spewing a bunch of useless crap and myths.

Don't get your transmission flushed, but get the pan dropped and the filter in the pan and the tranny filter changed.

BlazerLT

Thanks for the suggestion.

no problem, just keeping you informed.

It is amazing the amount of mechanics that spew 30 year old bullshit still.

Ok, you need to go to another mechanic, he is spewing a bunch of useless crap and myths.

Don't get your transmission flushed, but get the pan dropped and the filter in the pan and the tranny filter changed.

why not flush out the whole system?

On a high millage trans it is safer to just change filter.
A complete flush and you run the risk of all new high detergent traans fluid breaking lose all varnish and sludge and sticking the solenoids and valves in valve body.
It kinda like the old brillcream commerical a little dab at a time will do you.
Mt-2500

On a high millage trans it is safer to just change filter.
A complete flush and you run the risk of all new high detergent traans fluid breaking lose all varnish and sludge and sticking the solenoids and valves in valve body.
It kinda like the old brillcream commerical a little dab at a time will do you.
Mt-2500

shit well mine is a 97 blazer LT with 155k miles. im not sure when the last tranny flush/fluid/filter change was. how would i determine whether to completely flush or jus drop the pan and change like blazer LT suggested at this point?

If the trans has not had good regular service or flushes.
And you are unsure of last service or what mileage.
It would be safer to just drop the pan and change the filter. And maybe change the filter again in 10-20K.
When you change it look the filter and the bottom of the pan over. You can tell a lot about the condition of a trans by looking in the oil pan and cutting open the old filter.
They all have a little sludge ,but a hole lot of clutch,sludge ,or metal in there spells problems.
Mt-2500

shit well mine is a 97 blazer LT with 155k miles. im not sure when the last tranny flush/fluid/filter change was. how would i determine whether to completely flush or jus drop the pan and change like blazer LT suggested at this point?

Actually, since my last post I have recalled my thoughts on only doing the pan and filter.

This was because I was having some shifting problems with my transmission and the fluid has only been changed when the filter was dropped 2 or 3 times.

This only changes a small amount of the fluid and seeing my filter replacement was only 2 years ago and low milage, I just went for the complete fluid change.

It took no more than 10 minutes and holy shit the stuf coming out was dark compared to the bright cherry red going in.

Since then my shifting issues have disappeared and everything is performing awesome.

How did you change out all of the fluid?

How did you change out all of the fluid?

Go to your local jiffy lube and they will hook it up to a machine where it will replace the fluid through your transmission cooler lines.

Took 10 minutes and all new fluid.

THEN, if you haven't done it, go to the mechanic and swap in a new tranny filter. That was you will be completely fresh and have a clean slate.

He probably went to a shop that specializes in "T-Tech" flushes. They are rather simple machines, having the cooler line hooked up to them to reclaim the fluid as it is pumped out by the tranny when it's in neutral. Then, just as fast as the machine "sucks" the fluid out, the return oil cooler line is used to push fresh fluid back in.

I use the Ghetto method myself:

Every two scheduled oil change intervals (12,000 miles or so) I use a hand operated pump to suck all of the fluid out that I can get with wiggling a long vinyl tube around the pan through the tranny dispsick tube. I then refill, and do the usual checks to make sure the pan is full - test drive gently until hot, then check the fluid levels again with the truck idling in park. Re-adjust fluid level as needed, especially if it's still low. Every three years, or 30,000 miles, I drop the pan and replace the filter and fluid that is lost during the filter change. The fluid through all of this remains a bright cherry red and smells fresh. :)

To Flush or not To Flush ?
What may be good for the Goose may not be good for the Gander.
Just like Kenney Rodgers said you have got to know when to fold and when to hold.
If the fluid has high mileage 100K or over or is real dirty you had better hold.
On a trans that has had good regular service at 50K or sooner a flush is good.
But be ware of jiffie/quick/wallmart /fast lubes that offer power and fast flushes.
They have abused and over rated the trans flush.
They have a habit of using one fit all fluid out of the same barrel that fits all.
They just throw in a bottle of additive to make it fit all. Or worse they pitch in a bottle of cleaner or dope in it that can do more harm than good. And will tell you the filter does not need changing with a flush.
Just remember that all new fluid makes a high detergent cleaner that will break loose all varnish and dirt and grit in the trans and drop it in valve body and solenoids.
Always change the filter and go easy on or use no dope and cleaner.
Adjust/check the bands and linkage on the trans that have bands and adjustments.
Always use the trans fluid the trans/manf calls for. And be aware that some manf have changed the type of fluid specs since the trans was manf.
Some fords have changed the specs and a lot of cry/dodge have gone to the newer type of fluid on their trans service.
Also some fords have tsb’s and require a total complete trans flush to cure trans shifting problems. Some as low as 30K
If a person does not have a flush machine a old 5 gallon bucket and a couple of rubber hoses to connect to the cooler lines and with the other end in the bucket will make a good flush machine. Just put the hoses in the bucket and start the engine and start pouring fluid into the trans until the fluid running into the bucket gets good and clean.
It usually takes 16-20 qts. To get a good flush.
Flush or No flush always service the trans filter and trans on a good regular basic.
People that keep the serviced have a lot less trans problems.

MT-2500

To Flush or not To Flush ?
What may be good for the Goose may not be good for the Gander.
Just like Kenney Rodgers said you have got to know when to fold and when to hold.
If the fluid has high mileage 100K or over or is real dirty you had better hold.
On a trans that has had good regular service at 50K or sooner a flush is good.
But be ware of jiffie/quick/wallmart /fast lubes that offer power and fast flushes.
They have abused and over rated the trans flush.
They have a habit of using one fit all fluid out of the same barrel that fits all.
They just throw in a bottle of additive to make it fit all. Or worse they pitch in a bottle of cleaner or dope in it that can do more harm than good. And will tell you the filter does not need changing with a flush.
Just remember that all new fluid makes a high detergent cleaner that will break loose all varnish and dirt and grit in the trans and drop it in valve body and solenoids.
Always change the filter and go easy on or use no dope and cleaner.
Adjust/check the bands and linkage on the trans that have bands and adjustments.
Always use the trans fluid the trans/manf calls for. And be aware that some manf have changed the type of fluid specs since the trans was manf.
Some fords have changed the specs and a lot of cry/dodge have gone to the newer type of fluid on their trans service.
Also some fords have tsb’s and require a total complete trans flush to cure trans shifting problems. Some as low as 30K
If a person does not have a flush machine a old 5 gallon bucket and a couple of rubber hoses to connect to the cooler lines and with the other end in the bucket will make a good flush machine. Just put the hoses in the bucket and start the engine and start pouring fluid into the trans until the fluid running into the bucket gets good and clean.
It usually takes 16-20 qts. To get a good flush.
Flush or No flush always service the trans filter and trans on a good regular basic.
People that keep the serviced have a lot less trans problems.

MT-2500

Most of these fluid exchanges are not flushes. They don't use cleaner nor do they power the fluid into the system.

All they did with mine was hook up the tranny cooler hoses and allow the transmission pump to pump the new fluid in, and the old fluid out. They never asked for any extra detergent or anything.

Just want to make sure everyone knows the difference, most of the places just offer a fluid exchange, but a filter service does have to be done sometime in the near future after the service to have everything in perfect running order.

No place that I know uses generic tranny fluid and then adds additives to make it compatible with different models so I have no clue where you got that from.

Most of these fluid exchanges are not flushes. They don't use cleaner nor do they power the fluid into the system.

All they did with mine was hook up the tranny cooler hoses and allow the transmission pump to pump the new fluid in, and the old fluid out. They never asked for any extra detergent or anything.

No place that I know uses generic tranny fluid and then adds additives to make it compatible with different models so I have no clue where you got that from.


For these trucks running the 4L60e, 700R4, or any other transmission for that matter, the fluid is pushed through the cooler lines as the pump picks fluid up in the pan, so to flush it, you need a machine to push the fluid back into the transmission, because it does not suck it up. I have done several flushes and if you don't have a flush machine, you need to add fluid through the dipstick, and it will flow out the bottom cooler line-no sucking. Think about it, if it sucked fluid through the cooling circuit, you would have collapsing cooler lines if they were rubber(anyone who has a external cooler installed will know), or a 4t60(5)e, which has rubber hose endings installed from the factory, also oil would not leak if you had a leak, because it would be sucking it up, it would only leak when the engine was off.
Also, I have heard about the wal mart/fast lubes putting the wrong fluid in transmissions, like fords requiring Mercon fluid and gettting Dexron, or Type 7176/ATF+3, which is for Chrysler or vise versa. Yeah, be careful where you take it.

Most of these fluid exchanges are not flushes. They don't use cleaner nor do they power the fluid into the system.
No place that I know uses generic tranny fluid and then adds additives to make it compatible with different models so I have no clue where you got that from.


BlazerLT
Do not worry about not getting charged for the detergent because each bottle of trans fluid comes with high detergent already in it.
Trans fluid is a very high detergent fluid. And the hotter it gets in the trans the more it cleans also if it was not for the red dye in it, it makes a very good hand cleaner.
Not all but a lot of quick lubes and some repair shops only use one type of fluid out of the same barrel.
Also parts places pull the same thing. They want to sell you dexron and a bottle of change over to go with it or some type of trans fluid that is supposed to cover everything.
Usually Dexron 111 and then throw in a bottle of additive to try to make it into what ever type of fluid you need.
If you get a chance to swing by you quick lube ask them about what they do about all of the different types of trans fluid? See if they carry them all or just use one type for a fit all.
There is no kind of additive or dope that will completely change the one kind of fluid over to another type.
A lot of newer types of fluids are synthetic so it almost impossiable to change dexron into synthetic.
And doing it has caused a lot of trans problems. Maybe not at first but on down the road.
Each type of trans fluid has it own clutch friction modifier and type of lube that that type of trans needs.
You need to use the type of fluid your manf. calls for.
MT-2500

For these trucks running the 4L60e, 700R4, or any other transmission for that matter, the fluid is pushed through the cooler lines as the pump picks fluid up in the pan, so to flush it, you need a machine to push the fluid back into the transmission, because it does not suck it up. I have done several flushes and if you don't have a flush machine, you need to add fluid through the dipstick, and it will flow out the bottom cooler line-no sucking. Think about it, if it sucked fluid through the cooling circuit, you would have collapsing cooler lines if they were rubber(anyone who has a external cooler installed will know), or a 4t60(5)e, which has rubber hose endings installed from the factory, also oil would not leak if you had a leak, because it would be sucking it up, it would only leak when the engine was off.
Also, I have heard about the wal mart/fast lubes putting the wrong fluid in transmissions, like fords requiring Mercon fluid and gettting Dexron, or Type 7176/ATF+3, which is for Chrysler or vise versa. Yeah, be careful where you take it.

There is nor sucking, the transmission pump is pushing the fluid through the cooler and there is not sucking action at all.

All the fluid change unit does it supply fresh fluid through the return line while the machine fills with the old fluid. I watched it myself and the machine has zero power hooked to it.

It is not pushing or pulling, it is allowing the pump to push the ram which is pshing the new fluid into the return line.

BlazerLT
Do not worry about not getting charged for the detergent because each bottle of trans fluid comes with high detergent already in it.
Trans fluid is a very high detergent fluid. And the hotter it gets in the trans the more it cleans also if it was not for the red dye in it, it makes a very good hand cleaner.
Not all but a lot of quick lubes and some repair shops only use one type of fluid out of the same barrel.
Also parts places pull the same thing. They want to sell you dexron and a bottle of change over to go with it or some type of trans fluid that is supposed to cover everything.
Usually Dexron 111 and then throw in a bottle of additive to try to make it into what ever type of fluid you need.
If you get a chance to swing by you quick lube ask them about what they do about all of the different types of trans fluid? See if they carry them all or just use one type for a fit all.
There is no kind of additive or dope that will completely change the one kind of fluid over to another type.
A lot of newer types of fluids are synthetic so it almost impossiable to change dexron into synthetic.
And doing it has caused a lot of trans problems. Maybe not at first but on down the road.
Each type of trans fluid has it own clutch friction modifier and type of lube that that type of trans needs.
You need to use the type of fluid your manf. calls for.
MT-2500

I just stopped by to see them today. The machine can be filled through two lines they have in the service bay. One is for Dextron III and the other is Mercron. They just choose which fluid they need, fill the machine with the amount of fluid needed for a complete fluid swap in that system and start the change process.

And you are right, ATF is said to be no more than a highly detergent 5w20 motor oil with some different additives.

I agree you shouldn't go with any place that uses one fluid for all applications. I chose a place which offers both just to be sure and it was quick, painless, fast, cheap, and most of all, CLEAN. The filter is has no more than 20,000miles o it so I am not worrying about it for a while seeing it is made to last one helluva lot longer than that.

To everyone follow these simple rules:

1.) Use a passive system that uses only the tranny pump to pump out and pump in the fluid in one swift motion. No power flushing is needed, required, or recommended.

2.) Make sure they use the right ATF, not generic "good for all" ATF for you Specific truck.

3.) If you have never changed you filter, do so after you do a fluid change so you have a completely clean and properly lubricated transmission.

10-4 on that BlazerLT
It sounds like you found a good lube place that knows how flush a trans. And uses the correct fluid as needed.
I hear a lot of bad experiances and stories about some quick lubes.
But like repair shops there is good and some not so good.
It pays to check them out first.
I might have to trade my old 5 gallen bucket flush in on one of them passive systems some day.
MT-2500

I just had my transmission tube and dipstick changed on my '97. They changed the parts out and then flushed it. Then they changed it again and added a new filter. Then came the next flush and yet another new filter. I must say that my fluid is probable cleaner now than when it rolled off the lot. The whole ordeal cost me $493.92 and my truck shifts a lot better but I think it may be slipping a little on take-off. I could be wrong since I don't know what it felt like originally so if it goes out, I plan to kick the shit out of someone. But if not, I have a tranny that is spotless and should last me several more years. I forgot to mention that it has 94,450 miles on the clock. I will hold judgement on the high-milage flush until I get a few more miles on her.

I have a very good, GM certified local garage mechanic that I take my truck to when the job involves special tools or disposal of tons of parts/fluids. I shied away from him ever doing a transmission job for me or driveline fluid exchanges however. He has a 55 gallon drum of bulk fluid he states is a "Perfect fluid replacement for almost everything, including Honda type-4 fluid in these transmissions." I said thank you, no - I will take care of that myself. I stick to Dex-III Type-F or better fluid, and I will not use it if the label on the back does not carry at least basic/revised GM certifications. I find that Castrol ATF Dextron-III to be most excellent, and after a simple "pan change" of fluid using the ghetto method I stated earlier, have a tranny that shifts like butter every time, firmly when under a good amount of load. Just keep up with regular, once every three year pan services where you replace the gasket and filter and you should never have a single problem with this gearbox for a LONG time. Exchange your fluid in your transfer case too when it's time to swap fluids in the tranny. Be mindful however that certain drivelines beyond '96 require the use of GM's blue, synthetic "Alltrak-II" fluid instead of Dextron-III. I just wonder what's in that big, grey "Canada Petroleum" drum though. It LOOKS and smells like ATF, but the label on the top lists loooooong lines of what applications it fits, but without actual certifications I am a bit wary.

Quote
I just wonder what's in that big, grey "Canada Petroleum" drum though. It LOOKS and smells like ATF, but the label on the top lists loooooong lines of what applications it fits, but without actual certifications I am a bit wary.

10-4 on being wary.
Sounds like one of them fits all fluids.
My parts place tryed to sell me some Multi-Vehicle atf by pennzoil That claim it will work in most anything. Says Synthetic Blend. What ever that is.
It is a lot safer and better to get what your vechicle calls for.
MT-2500