03-30-2005, 04:41 PM
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#1
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chambersburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 453
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Clack Clack Clack...
This i now a near constant noise i get while driving with the windows down. Problem was intermitent but now becoming more and more steady all the time. Definatly on the passenger side but i cant tell which wheel for sure. Im thinking it may be a bad wheel bearing or somethin of the sort. Nothing noticeable other than the noise. How would i check see for sure if it was the wheel bearing? any other ideas?
__________________
"Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups."
1997 K-1500 Silverado Vortec 350...125,610 and wounded
HD chassis package
Custom TRUE DUAL exhaust with cut-outs and Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
Poweraid Throttle Body Spacer
Custom Ram-air Intake with K&N FIPK GEN II
TFES Performance 3" Suspension Lift
Dual Air-Horn Kit with Compressor
Bed-Mounted 48" Hi-Lift Jack
Cobra Laser Radar Detector
285/75/R16 Cooper Discoverer STT's
1/4 Mile 10/15/05: 16.43 @ 91mph
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03-30-2005, 05:05 PM
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#2
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AF Regular
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 271
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Re: Clack Clack Clack...
Since yours is four wheel drive, maybe the CV joint? Check the boot to see if it is cracked. Also check the pads to see if the retaining clips are in place.
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03-30-2005, 07:31 PM
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#3
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Joplin, Missouri
Posts: 57
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Re: Clack Clack Clack...
Hi,Wheel bearing noises will get louder under a load.For example, while going around an on or off ramp to a hwy the weight will shift to one side or another and the noise level will get louder.For the rear the noise level wil be louder when suspension is bottoming.Doesnt usually sound like a clack clack.Does it go away when brakes are applied (could be a loose brake pad w/ warped rotor) does it go away when clutch is depressed (could be throw out bearing or synchronizer) maybe your rear brake hardware has come loose. Thats some options for you to investigate. Good Luck!!
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03-30-2005, 09:14 PM
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#4
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AF Regular
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Newport, Rhode Island
Posts: 157
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Re: Clack Clack Clack...
First thing is to check all tires for foreign objects. I had a huge bolt stuck in one of mine one time, and it made a loud, steady clacking noise like you describe. Just like you, I only heard it when passenger window was down. Sure enough, bolt was in passenger side tire.
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03-30-2005, 10:21 PM
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#5
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chambersburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 453
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Re: Clack Clack Clack...
Yeh i checked over the tires on that side and didnt notice anything extremely obvious. I think some time tomorrow when ever i get a chance im gonna take both the wheels on that side off and check things over in there. Hopefully it's nothin important or expenisive since i just ordered a Hypertech PP III and an air horn kit.
__________________
"Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups."
1997 K-1500 Silverado Vortec 350...125,610 and wounded
HD chassis package
Custom TRUE DUAL exhaust with cut-outs and Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
Poweraid Throttle Body Spacer
Custom Ram-air Intake with K&N FIPK GEN II
TFES Performance 3" Suspension Lift
Dual Air-Horn Kit with Compressor
Bed-Mounted 48" Hi-Lift Jack
Cobra Laser Radar Detector
285/75/R16 Cooper Discoverer STT's
1/4 Mile 10/15/05: 16.43 @ 91mph
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03-31-2005, 01:37 PM
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#6
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Omaha, Nebraska
Posts: 957
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i had a front wheel drive lebaron once that did that. i thought it must be a CV joint or maybe a piece of gravel in the tire treads. turned out it was just my hubcap that was damaged and was loose so it for some reason made the noise cause when i took it off it stopped when it was just the naked doughnut. im guessing you problably dont have the big type of hubcap like a lebaron (the kind that go all the way out to the tire) you probably have alloy rims with small plastic hubcabs that dont go past the lug nuts im assuming. so yeah like they said, its either something in ur tire tread or its maybe a CV joint for the front wheel
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03-31-2005, 04:31 PM
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#7
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chambersburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 453
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Re: Clack Clack Clack...
Well...we were all wrong. the problem rolled out at me as soon as i popped the lug cover off. A lug nut with a part of the lug itself had broken off and also another lug was loose. Now just what in judas priests butthole does a guy do about this sorta thing!?
__________________
"Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups."
1997 K-1500 Silverado Vortec 350...125,610 and wounded
HD chassis package
Custom TRUE DUAL exhaust with cut-outs and Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
Poweraid Throttle Body Spacer
Custom Ram-air Intake with K&N FIPK GEN II
TFES Performance 3" Suspension Lift
Dual Air-Horn Kit with Compressor
Bed-Mounted 48" Hi-Lift Jack
Cobra Laser Radar Detector
285/75/R16 Cooper Discoverer STT's
1/4 Mile 10/15/05: 16.43 @ 91mph
Last edited by Silverado Brethern; 03-31-2005 at 05:06 PM.
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03-31-2005, 05:26 PM
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#8
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AF Regular
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lawton, Michigan
Posts: 367
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Re: Re: Clack Clack Clack...
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Silverado Brethern
Well...we were all wrong. the problem rolled out at me as soon as i popped the lug cover off. A lug nut with a part of the lug itself had broken off and also another lug was loose. Now just what in judas priests butthole does a guy do about this sorta thing!?
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Now you will need to drive the old lug stud out of the hub and replace it with a new one.
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03-31-2005, 06:02 PM
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#9
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chambersburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 453
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Re: Clack Clack Clack...
Not sure how to go about doing it but Im gonna get 2 studs and nuts cuz one of the others is bent slightly. Im guessin i have to take the brake caliper out? or do i just take a screw driver and a hammer and beat on the busted one til it falls out? When ever i get time tomorrow or over the weekend ill just take some stuff off of that wheel to get a better look and repair it.
__________________
"Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups."
1997 K-1500 Silverado Vortec 350...125,610 and wounded
HD chassis package
Custom TRUE DUAL exhaust with cut-outs and Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
Poweraid Throttle Body Spacer
Custom Ram-air Intake with K&N FIPK GEN II
TFES Performance 3" Suspension Lift
Dual Air-Horn Kit with Compressor
Bed-Mounted 48" Hi-Lift Jack
Cobra Laser Radar Detector
285/75/R16 Cooper Discoverer STT's
1/4 Mile 10/15/05: 16.43 @ 91mph
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03-31-2005, 08:00 PM
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#10
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AF Regular
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 271
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Re: Clack Clack Clack...
While you there you may want to check your hub and bearing assy. for play. Usually you hear a roar when they go bad, but i heard nothing on mine and it was real loose. Just something to look at so you dont go through all that work to install the studs, and find out the hub needs replacing anyway.
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03-31-2005, 10:06 PM
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#11
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Shellsburg, Iowa
Posts: 3,018
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Re: Clack Clack Clack...
Idealy, you would remove the hub from the vehicle and use a press to remove/install the studs. If you don't have a press, I suppose you could just "beat on the busted one til it falls out", but it will put a lot of shock on the steering system.
__________________
'04 Cavalier coupe M/T 2.2 Ecotec
Supercharged 14 PSI boost, charge air cooler, 42# injectors
Tuned with HP Tuners
Poly engine/trans/control arm bushings
When you buy something... a bottle of pop for example, who gets the profit from it and what do they do with it? Maybe your money's going to groups that want to hurt you. I think everyone should do a search for things they purchase regularly "____ supports". Might just find a company you won't buy stuff from anymore.
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04-01-2005, 06:36 AM
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#12
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Rome, Georgia
Posts: 33
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Re: Clack Clack Clack...
I had broken studs on one of my front nubs and had to replace the whole hub. The problem wasn't in getting the old one out but in getting the new one not to spin around. Definately remove the hub and do it to make sure it is seated properly. If that means using a press or buying a new one with studs in it then do the right thing. The last thing you want is a problem there while gettin it down the road.
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04-01-2005, 07:32 PM
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#13
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chambersburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 453
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Re: Clack Clack Clack...
This was a fairly easy fix. Just a lil time consuming. But at least i fixed it for $8 where as to have a mech fix it woulda been around $120. so im happy.
__________________
"Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups."
1997 K-1500 Silverado Vortec 350...125,610 and wounded
HD chassis package
Custom TRUE DUAL exhaust with cut-outs and Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
Poweraid Throttle Body Spacer
Custom Ram-air Intake with K&N FIPK GEN II
TFES Performance 3" Suspension Lift
Dual Air-Horn Kit with Compressor
Bed-Mounted 48" Hi-Lift Jack
Cobra Laser Radar Detector
285/75/R16 Cooper Discoverer STT's
1/4 Mile 10/15/05: 16.43 @ 91mph
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