I have a 91 escort wagon automatic 1.9 liter electronic fuel injection, 141,000 miles and we were driving tonight and it just shutdown and cranks but no start. I had to leave it in a guys driveway and probably won't be able to haul it home till Saturday so wanted to get some ideas on what to check in the meantime. We have only driven it for a week after having the tranny replaced. I am very mechanical but am new to the Fords, escorts etc. I know what a cranking engine sounds like after a timing belt goes out and this is not the problem. I have had them go out on dodge 4 cylinders before. I had filled the gas tank and driven about 50-60 miles. The fuel cutoff light is not on. Where is the reset button on the wagons so I can check it anyway? What other common problems cause an immediate shutdown with no start and what is the best method to diagnose which part is bad? I have a code reader for my 98 Ford van but don't think it will work on this 91. Have only had the escort for a short time. Your help is much appreciated, thanks.

I have a 91 escort wagon automatic 1.9 liter electronic fuel injection, 141,000 miles and we were driving tonight and it just shutdown and cranks but no start. I had to leave it in a guys driveway and probably won't be able to haul it home till Saturday so wanted to get some ideas on what to check in the meantime. We have only driven it for a week after having the tranny replaced. I am very mechanical but am new to the Fords, escorts etc. I know what a cranking engine sounds like after a timing belt goes out and this is not the problem. I have had them go out on dodge 4 cylinders before. I had filled the gas tank and driven about 50-60 miles. The fuel cutoff light is not on. Where is the reset button on the wagons so I can check it anyway? What other common problems cause an immediate shutdown with no start and what is the best method to diagnose which part is bad? I have a code reader for my 98 Ford van but don't think it will work on this 91. Have only had the escort for a short time. Your help is much appreciated, thanks.

If you can't hear the relay click or the fuel pump running with the key 'ON':
Inertia Reset Button: Located in trunk area behind the side panels. Some models have a removable plug in the panel for easy access to the reset button. Push button down, with key 'On'. Should now be able to hear the fuel pump running if that was the problem. Check the FI connector.
It sounds like an ignition problem. Check the coil, and ignition module connectors for cleanliness and security. Check battery and engine ground connections. Check ignition switch circuit.

:2cents: Having just recently had transmission work done, I would check the Crankshaft Position Sensor connector and the Camshaft Position sensor for cleanliness and security.

:2cents: Having just recently had transmission work done, I would check the Crankshaft Position Sensor connector and the Camshaft Position sensor for cleanliness and security.[/QUOTE]

Definatly check them both. But don't rule out timing belt.

It is the timing belt! I unbolted and pulled the cover back a little ways and turned the engine over by hand and the cam does not turn. The belt was still on the cam pulley but I could not see down below until I get it home and tore down furthur. It will be Saturday before I can get it home. When it first shut down I was in traffic and tried restarting it a few times to get it out of the way. Do you think it did any damage to valves etc. when I cranked it? I have not tried to crank it with the key since then. I picked up a haynes manual and the belt doesen't look to bad to change. Any and all help is appreciated, thanks again.

It is the timing belt! .

told ya so-lol some people on here say it wont damage the motor when the belt breaks I personally havent any experiance with it and some say its only a 2 hour job. Jet lee and souphound will tell ya more about it.

It is the timing belt! I unbolted and pulled the cover back a little ways and turned the engine over by hand and the cam does not turn. The belt was still on the cam pulley but I could not see down below until I get it home and tore down furthur. It will be Saturday before I can get it home. When it first shut down I was in traffic and tried restarting it a few times to get it out of the way. Do you think it did any damage to valves etc. when I cranked it? I have not tried to crank it with the key since then. I picked up a haynes manual and the belt doesen't look to bad to change. Any and all help is appreciated, thanks again.

Glad to hear you found the problem. The 91 1.9L engine is not an interference engine, and no damage will be done by a broken belt.

told ya so-lol some people on here say it wont damage the motor when the belt breaks I personally havent any experiance with it and some say its only a 2 hour job. Jet lee and souphound will tell ya more about it.

Hey Chevy, good call. Hope you have a few buttons left on your shirt....
:naughty:

Hey Chevy, good call. Hope you have a few buttons left on your shirt....
:naughty:

lol learned from watching you on here. BTW can you email me same name @aol.com

Tore into the escort today and the belt was still on and intact but when you would turn the crank over by hand the belt was slipping on the teeth of the crankshaft sprockett not allowing the cam to turn at all. We went ahead and took the belt off and all of the teeth on the part of the belt that was around the crank sprockett only was stripped off smooth and the rest of the belt and teeth looked fine. The tensioner and idler pulley spun free. I am confused why the only the teeth on the bottom of belt were stripped off. Also tried to turn the cam sprockett by hand a tiny bit after the belt was off and it seemed to turn kinda hard and was afraid to try and force it. Is this normal?? I am gonna have to turn it to realign the marks on the cam sprockett. I am pretty confused about what happened since the belt was still in place with only a few teeth missing! All help is appreciated, thanks, Twoshoes

Tore into the escort today and the belt was still on and intact but when you would turn the crank over by hand the belt was slipping on the teeth of the crankshaft sprockett not allowing the cam to turn at all. We went ahead and took the belt off and all of the teeth on the part of the belt that was around the crank sprockett only was stripped off smooth and the rest of the belt and teeth looked fine. The tensioner and idler pulley spun free. I am confused why the only the teeth on the bottom of belt were stripped off. Also tried to turn the cam sprockett by hand a tiny bit after the belt was off and it seemed to turn kinda hard and was afraid to try and force it. Is this normal?? I am gonna have to turn it to realign the marks on the cam sprockett. I am pretty confused about what happened since the belt was still in place with only a few teeth missing! All help is appreciated, thanks, Twoshoes

there is a special order you need to do it check out autozone.com they have a how too. (see old post (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=367943&highlight=timing+belt)) alvin also has good tips about stay ties holding the belt in place until your job is compleat then you cut them off when your done.

there is a special order you need to do it check out autozone.com they have a how too. (see old post (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=367943&highlight=timing+belt)) alvin also has good tips about stay ties holding the belt in place until your job is compleat then you cut them off when your done.


I am thinking their is a problem with the cam or valves etc since the cam does not want to turn easily and the belt was stripped completely smooth on just the surface of the belt that was going around the crank sprockett. Thats why when I would turn the engine over that the crank was turning and the cam was not, even though the belt was still around all of the sprocketts. The only thing that confused me was the way the belt was stripped smooth on the bottom around the crank sprockett. Another words the crank was turning when you would hit the key but the belt was not because it was stripped in just that one area around the crank sprockett. What caused this??? The rest of the belt looks good. Its like something stopped the belt and caused the teeth to grind off at the crank sprockett

I am thinking their is a problem with the cam or valves etc since the cam does not want to turn easily and the belt was stripped completely smooth on just the surface of the belt that was going around the crank sprockett. Thats why when I would turn the engine over that the crank was turning and the cam was not, even though the belt was still around all of the sprocketts. The only thing that confused me was the way the belt was stripped smooth on the bottom around the crank sprockett. Another words the crank was turning when you would hit the key but the belt was not because it was stripped in just that one area around the crank sprockett. What caused this??? The rest of the belt looks good. Its like something stopped the belt and caused the teeth to grind off at the crank sprockett

The resistance to the Cam turning is most likely coming from two main sources: If you haven't removed the sparkplugs.....compression.
The Cam should not rotate freely, you are opening and closing valves which are compressing valve springs with approx. 200 lbs of tension.
When a timing belt gets old, and the belt looses some of its tension, it is common to 'strip' the belt at the crankshaft sprocket.

The resistance to the Cam turning is most likely coming from two main sources: If you haven't removed the sparkplugs.....compression.
The Cam should not rotate freely, you are opening and closing valves which are compressing valve springs with approx. 200 lbs of tension.
When a timing belt gets old, and the belt looses some of its tension, it is common to 'strip' the belt at the crankshaft sprocket.

Sounds right to me. I have seen the teeth of regular belts and chunks missing from belts. In fact I wasnt shocked at all to "hear" you say that about your belt. Either way study up on the order to install and see that page and search this forum for alvins tips and advice on how to replace (or ask him) and you should be ok.

Me and my brother got new belt on today and all seems to be fine for now. Thank you to all who were a big help in solving the problems with it. By the way what mileage mods can be done to this car to increase MPG? Are their any chips or computer mods and will a K&N air filter help at all or the extra cost of it? I intend to run mobil 1 fully synthetic in it just like I have always done the Taurus and van. I am very happy with the performance of it, just want to get maximum MPG. Thanks again.

Me and my brother got new belt on today and all seems to be fine for now. Thank you to all who were a big help in solving the problems with it. By the way what mileage mods can be done to this car to increase MPG? Are their any chips or computer mods and will a K&N air filter help at all or the extra cost of it? I intend to run mobil 1 fully synthetic in it just like I have always done the Taurus and van. I am very happy with the performance of it, just want to get maximum MPG. Thanks again.

I spent the money on k/n but didnt see anything at all. What do you like about the synthertic (oil)?

I spent the money on k/n but didnt see anything at all. What do you like about the synthertic (oil)?

I have always ran it and never had any engine troubles ever!!! Its like anything else you get what you pay for. When something has worked great for me I'm not about to change. Thanks.

I have always ran it and never had any engine troubles ever!!! Its like anything else you get what you pay for. When something has worked great for me I'm not about to change. Thanks.

Good reason. Any difference in engine noise or temperature?

Good reason. Any difference in engine noise or temperature?

My wifes taurus runs as smooth and quiet as the day it was new. Probably runs a little cooler but can't say for sure. It has 170,000 miles and has Never consumed one drop of oil. I ran the mobile 1 in 81 Bonneville with a 307 in it for years and we drove the snot out of it and it NEVER used one drop of oil. It had over 300,000 miles on it and still didn't use any oil and it still ran great when I sold it for $800.00 in 2003.
I usually run it for 5-6,000 miles between changes. Its worth the extra money.

My wifes taurus runs as smooth and quiet as the day it was new. Probably runs a little cooler but can't say for sure. It has 170,000 miles and has Never consumed one drop of oil. I ran the mobile 1 in 81 Bonneville with a 307 in it for years and we drove the snot out of it and it NEVER used one drop of oil. It had over 300,000 miles on it and still didn't use any oil and it still ran great when I sold it for $800.00 in 2003.
I usually run it for 5-6,000 miles between changes. Its worth the extra money.

:2cents:
My Mobil 1 story: 1988 1.9 HO: Broke it in on fossil oil then switched to Mobil 1. I was driving the car approx. 7K per month (highway 95%). Changed filters every 5K, oil every 20K. Never added oil except make-up for filter changes. At 242K leaking headgasket replacement caused me to consider an overhaul. I decided with 242K, and the major part of engine tear-down already done, I would overhaul it. There was absolutely no ridge in top of cylinder, and pistons were removed without having to use a ridge reamer. Piston bores were miked, and showed little wear. Everything bearings etc. went back Standard. Milled the head slightly, and ground the valves. The interesting thing was, the entire engine was gold color, and the oil pan took one swipe with a shop towel to clean. Absolutely beautiful. The car is nearing 400K, and I don't drive in 'on the road' as I did.
Mobil 1 is rightly named as #1 with me.