Hey everyone, I was hopeing that someone could give me some advice. I have a 90 escort gt 1.9 efi, I just redid the cylinder head and reinstalled everything with new belt and gaskets and when we first started it, it ran, next day it started again and then died and now we can not get it runing, We hear the fuel pump running, turn the key and it sputters like it wants to start but does not, any thoughts???

Hey everyone, I was hopeing that someone could give me some advice. I have a 90 escort gt 1.9 efi, I just redid the cylinder head and reinstalled everything with new belt and gaskets and when we first started it, it ran, next day it started again and then died and now we can not get it runing, We hear the fuel pump running, turn the key and it sputters like it wants to start but does not, any thoughts???

1. Did you check the 'basic' timing, after you started it?
2. Did you torque the timing belt in the counterclockwise direction if not, it could have slipped.
3. You say 'it ran'....did it run good when it was running, no misfire or anything?

1. Did you check the 'basic' timing, after you started it?
2. Did you torque the timing belt in the counterclockwise direction if not, it could have slipped.
3. You say 'it ran'....did it run good when it was running, no misfire or anything?
Ansewr to #1, It was at about 6deg and the book did not mention anything so I had to contact the dealership and they mentioned that it should be at 10deg before top dead center.?
#2 could you please elaborate?
#3 it ran like a sack of patatoes but I took in consideration that the timeing was not yet set, it ran rough but it started right off

Ansewr to #1, It was at about 6deg and the book did not mention anything so I had to contact the dealership and they mentioned that it should be at 10deg before top dead center.?
#2 could you please elaborate?
#3 it ran like a sack of patatoes but I took in consideration that the timeing was not yet set, it ran rough but it started right off

VinceH,
If, the engine was running pretty decent before you decided to change the timing belt and if the distributor has not been moved let's forget the timing issue for now.

A common mistake in replacing the timing belt is threading the belt from the wrong side of the crankshaft sprocket. When done properly there should be no 'slack' in the belt on the front side (toward radiator) between the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket and both timing marks i.e. on the crankshaft and camshaft should be aligned with the timing mark (window in camshaft sprocket). When the marks are aligned, the keyways will be at 12:oclock on the crank, and 6:oclock on the camshaft sprocket with the #1 cylinder at TDC....compression stroke.
Suggest you remove the timing belt cover, remove the sparkplugs, and rotate the engine by hand to verify #1 TDC (compression stroke). Check the timing marks...
Up-date us on what you find.

The distributer was removed in order to send it to the machine shop, I tapped a mark on the side of the head in order to realign the distibuter. There was a bit of slack in the belt after we released the tensioner, not sure how much slack is normal? I will verify what you mentioned above and let you know... Thanks

The distributer was removed in order to send it to the machine shop, I tapped a mark on the side of the head in order to realign the distibuter. There was a bit of slack in the belt after we released the tensioner, not sure how much slack is normal? I will verify what you mentioned above and let you know... Thanks

#1 Cyl at TDC on Compression Stroke:
No slack on the forward side of the belt. The belt should be in tension by holding the crankshaft mark at 12:oclock and rotating the camshaft by the big sprocket nut counterclockwise about 30 ft/lbs and then check the camshaft timing mark for alignment while hold pressure on the wrench. It the timing marks are aligned, release the tensioner and tighten with one bolt. Rotate the engine several times by the crankshaft bolt stopping on the crankshaft timing mark. Check crankshaft and camshaft timing marks for alignment.

NOTE: If the timing marks were aligned with slack in the belt you will see the camshaft pointer move off the timing mark when the slack is removed. This will cause an 'out of time' condition by a couple of teeth.

Everything checks out ok, We have good spark and the belt is properly allighned. It seems to be a fuel issue, we have good fuel pressure coming out of the filter. But for some reason it is not reaching its final destination, the car sputters and wants to start but doesn't. At this point I am lost as to what to look for.....

Everything checks out ok, We have good spark and the belt is properly allighned. It seems to be a fuel issue, we have good fuel pressure coming out of the filter. But for some reason it is not reaching its final destination, the car sputters and wants to start but doesn't. At this point I am lost as to what to look for.....

crank sensor, cam sensor. Try spraying the throttle body with cleaner and see if it runs for a moment.

Everything checks out ok, We have good spark and the belt is properly allighned. It seems to be a fuel issue, we have good fuel pressure coming out of the filter. But for some reason it is not reaching its final destination, the car sputters and wants to start but doesn't. At this point I am lost as to what to look for.....

You haven't provided any feedback about timing the engine after the distributor has been removed. You have an emissions placard on the car that tells you how to set 'basic timing'. Has this been done?

Recheck the ignition module connector.
Recheck the fuel injection harness connector.
Make sure the Sprout connector is in place.

Check the distributor rotor and see if it's coming up on #1 terminal with #1 piston at TDC compression stroke. Distributor could be 180 degrees out.