gentlejax2

I work at a used car lot. traded my wifes FOCUS in for a really nice 95.5 Passport with the V6 & manual.

I plan on changing oil in next few days and plugs and whatever else.

Not sure on which oil weight to use for it. wife is gone to work in it now.

motor has 150K on it. only reason I chanced it is because I got a 3 yr warranty with it because I could.

I also need to know what I should do as far as cleanign motor internally or should I do nothing except change fluids.


I live in Louisiana. temps here go from 30's for lows to 70's for highs depending on what day it is.

tell me anything you guys can. I searched but got more than one answer.

sorry for the newbbie post.

Mike

Ramblin Fever

Welcome to Isuzu-land! It's always good to hear from a fellow Isuzu'an, specially with a 1st-generation rodeo.

I run 10W-30 Havoline oil (dino) with Isuzu filter in Colorado; have done so for 130K miles. Temps range between 20-50 winter; and 50-95 Summer.

One VERY important thing to remember with an Isuzu engine, is to change the oil EVERY 3K; do not extend the miles. These engines need and want fresh oil constantly.

For the first couple of oil changes, I'd be tempted to only put on 1-2K miles before changing oil/filter, to help filter out any kind of particules that may have accumulated from infrequent maintenance. Get the engine good and hot before dumping oil, this helps get out extra crud.

Definitely change/flush out the cooling system, thermostat, power steering, brake fluid.

Timing belt, waterpump, tensioner seem to start to give way right around 100-130K miles, book recommends to change them every 60K miles. But no one here, with the 3.2L V6 engine, has actually had one break, and several people here have even said that the belt still looks decent at 100K.

It's usually the timing belt tensioner that gives way before the belt. When this happens, it gives a sound similar to a rod knock - several mechanics, upon hearing this sound, have told people their engines were toast when it was only the tensioner weakening.

As to whether or not you decide to clean the engine internally, it's hard to say; some people here have used Sea Foam in their oil with good results. I'll let those people chime in, I've never used it.

I personally would have no doubts about that truck, as long as it's been decently taken care of.

Can't advise on maintenance needed for a manual; I have the automatic.

Keep us posted, and again welcome.

__________________
1997 3.2L V6 Rodeo
32" Yoko's, 16x8 MB Wheels, 2" lift, Brushguard, KC Fog's, Loadwarrior Rack
On it's way to 185k strong

2004 3.4L Tacoma TRD off-road 4x4 Double cab
32" Yoko's, Westin Bull-bar, KC Fogs 60K miles

gentlejax2

do you use the 10w30 all year round? I dont know if there was a manual in the truck. just picked it up last night. How much trouble is the belt tensioner? I think the motor was ticking last night when she picked it up which I never heard before but it has sat up for 8 or 9 days and gotten cold lately. that is why I was going to try to clean it some and then put in fresh oil. the former owner(s) were women and I remember there was adecent amount of maintenance paperwork. I think the manual, if it had one, had lots of service records.
The truck was nice and looked about 9 /10 so I traded it.

hopefully it will be a good truck.

what does the factory recomend for oil?

Ramblin Fever

Yes, I use 10W-30 year round.

Mine does tick for 20-30 seconds on a very cold morning, or after it's been sitting for a few days (very rare for me).

It's not unusual at all to have a mild tick on these engines upon start-up; some of these 3.2L's even tick after they've warmed up. Soft ticking is normal, well at least for Isuzu it is, but definitely keep an eye on your oil for several weeks.

These 95.5-97 3.2L V6 SOHC engines are not labeled as oil users, like some of the 3.2L DOHC engines do - but it's still new to you, so keep tabs on the oil at least once a week for a while.

I believe my manual states to use the oil viscosity suitable to the climate.

To be honest, I do most of the fluids/changes on my vehicle, but when it comes to the auto transmission or detailed work, I leave that to my trusted Import mechanic.

I do recommend using OEM parts, and do all of it, i.e water pump, timing belt, and tensioner. Once you break the front of that engine down, you won't want to do it again for a while. They're not exactly the easiest engine to work on.

Sounds like you've got a keeper truck; I have intentions of keeping mine til the wheels fall off!

Curious, do you have the 15 or 16" wheels/tires?

__________________
1997 3.2L V6 Rodeo
32" Yoko's, 16x8 MB Wheels, 2" lift, Brushguard, KC Fog's, Loadwarrior Rack
On it's way to 185k strong

2004 3.4L Tacoma TRD off-road 4x4 Double cab
32" Yoko's, Westin Bull-bar, KC Fogs 60K miles

Super 95.5 Rodeo

Change oil often. I would recommend not using a engine detergent in the oil because all the stuff that breaks loose falls into the oil pan and then gets picked up by the pick up screen effectively blocking your oil from circulating correctly. It will also clog up the oil pressure sending unit, requiring you to replace it. Not cheap, around $140 dollars for the unit depending on when your engine was manufactured. If you do this you will probably have to drop the oil pan to clean out the trash and the screen. Not an easy job. Keep up with the scheduled routine maint. and the engine and tranny will last a long time as long as there are no problems not existing with them. Welcome to the forum.

__________________


Brian Creelman
MSgt USAF Reserve, Retired
1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo S 4WD 3.2L V6 247542 miles
2004 Ford F-250 Super Duty Crew 6.0 Diesel
2006 Ford Mustang GT Coupe Tungsten Grey

gentlejax2

well good news is that the motor is not ticking after all since it has been driven again. I drove it tonight and it was quiet.
so I will change as much of the fluids as possible this weekend. I also have a list of stuff to get my RX7 up to speed . thanks for all the info . I will be back.

Mike

streetracer77

I've gotta hot tip for you!! I bought a 95 Passport AKA Isuzu Rodeo two years ago. Was in really good condition with no problems had 96,000 miles at the time of purchase. The previous advice about frequent oil changes are true, had lifter ticking noise when the oil viscosity broke down. Try using a good synthetic oil like Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec for suv's 10 w 30 is the recomended viscosity. If your engine has over 150,000 use 10 w 40 dont go any higher than that. You may have to change the valve cover gaskets as I did. Synthetic oil flows very well and will find a way though any gasket leaks. And will save you money cuz you wil not have to change the oil as often. Usually between 5 to 7 thousand miles between oil changes. And use a good quality oil filter like Frahm X-TR gard.

One more tip, The stock auto locking hubs dont really disengauge fully thus causing premature front tire wear. Superwinch makes manual locking hubs for the passport. They are listed for the Isuzu rodeo, "same thing"

dmccr

I'm also a newbie here, but have a 1995.5 Passport. Mine can go through the oil pretty quickly with 166,000 miles on it.

There is a TSB out for this engine regarding the ticking, which may be varnish built up on the hydraulic lash adjuster arms. I didn't have the problem to any significant degree, but the initial part of the fix is so simple I did it as a preventative measure.

Here it is:
Service Procedure
1. Drain the engine oil, replace the oil filter with a Genuine Isuzu oil filter, and refill the crankcase with 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil.

2. With the engine warm, run it at 2,500 rpm for 30 minutes.

^ If the ticking noise goes away, return the vehicle to the customer.

^ If the ticking noise persists, proceed with step 3.

Step 3 is much more involved, but I figured the initial step was a quasi-sanctioned "internal cleaning."

Here is a different portion of the bulletin FYI:

Condition:
The above affected vehicles may exhibit a condition of ticking sounds coming from the valvetrain during normal operation.

Possible Cause:
One or more hydraulic lash adjusters do not fully extend due to varnish build-up inside. This condition results from exceeding the required oil and filter change intervals. Severe driving conditions require more frequent oil and filter changes. (Refer to appropriate Owner's Manual or Workshop Manual for details.)

Correction:
A typical repair for the condition may involve the replacement of the affected rocker arm(s), and rocker shaft(s). However, follow the information in this bulletin to perform an oil/filter change using 0W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil, prior to replacing any valvetrain component.

NOTE : Although the current recommended engine oil for these engines is 10W-30 API SJ, the 0W-30 synthetic engine oil allows air in the hydraulic lash adjusters to bleed out quickly and removes the varnish that is preventing hydraulic lash adjuster piston travel.

dmccr

Also FYI-
Here is the list of TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) on the 1995 Isuzu Rodeo (which covers our 1995.5 Honda Passport models). I bought the Honda factory service manual, and the jacket is the only place you can find the word "Honda," everywhere else is says Isuzu!

IB04-12-S001 040101 A/C - Refrigerant System Sealer/Leak Detection
IB01-11-S001 010201 Safety Glass - Identification & Maintenance
SB00-01-S009 000901 Engine Valve Train - Ticking Noise
IB00-12-S002 000801 A/C - Receiver Dryer Replacement Recommendations
IB00-09-S001 000701 Disc Brakes - Squeal
00-09-S001 000701 Brakes - Squeal Upon Light Application
SB00-12-S003 000601 Heater Core - Coolant Leakage
IB00-01-S001 000301 Oil Filter - Precaution During Installation
IB00-04-S002 000301 Scan Tool - Introducing Powerlink Diagnostics
IB00-11-S001 000301 Roof Rack - Whistling/Fluttering Noise
IB00-S004 000201 Engine - Exhaust Valve Leaking
SB99-13-S004 990901 CD Player - Compatible Compact Discs
SB99-14-S008 990501 Wheel Lug - Torque Stick Now Used for Installation
SB99-14-S007 990401 Child Seat Tether Anchor Kit - Availability
SB99-12-S002 990301 HVAC System - Unpleasant Odors When In Use
SB99-14-S003 990201 Child Safety Seats - Supplement Booklet For Installing
SB99-14-S001 990101 Sealers/Adhesives - Cross Reference Chart
SB99-12-S001 990101 HVAC Blower Motor - Noisy or Inoperative
SB99-11-S001 990101 Rear Door - Will Not Open From the Inside or Outside
SB98-04-L009 981101 Airbag - On/Off Switch Kit Availability
SB98-12-L001 981001 A/C - Unpleasent Odors When In Use
SB98-03-L004 980701 DTC 32 (EGR Circuit) Diagnostic Procedure Revised
SB98-09-L003 980301 Rear Brakes - Squeal/Shudder While Backing Up
SB97-01-L009 971101 Water Pump - Installation (Manual Revision)
SB97-06-L002 971101 Front End Alignment - Inspection (Manual Revision)
SB97-01-L005 971001 Engine - Servicing Procedure Revision
SB97-11-L006 970801 Radiator Grilles - Painting of Primered Replacement
SB97-01-L003 970601 Spark Plug Tube - Oil Seepage
SB97-04-L004 970501 Recall - 97V034 Battery Terminal Stud Bushing
NHTSA97V034001 970304 Recall 97V034001: Alternator/Regulator Defect
NHTSA97V034000 970304 Recall 97V034000: Alternator/Voltage Regulator Defect
SB97-10-L001 970301 Instrument Harness - Chafing at Steering Reinforcement
SB97-04-L002 970301 Recall - 97V034 Alternator/Regulator
SB97-11-L004 970301 Door Locks - Front/Rear Doors Will Not Lock
SB97-11-L005 970301 LR Door Lock - Not Fully Unlocking w/Front Power Lock.
SB97-13-L002 970301 Center Console Stay - Breakage
SB97-04-L001 970101 Dual Air Bags - New Safety Warning Labels
SB96-13-L004 961001 Base Clarion Radio Clock - Display Inoperative
SB96-13-L005 961001 Roof Rack - New Installation Tool Available
SB96-01-L005 960901 Spark Plug Tube - Oil Accumulation
SB96-11-L007 960901 Rear Hatchgate - Glass Difficult To Latch
SB96-13-L003 960801 Campaign - Brush/Grille Guard
SB96-05-L002 960701 A/T - (4L30E) Delayed Gear Engagement
SB96-02-L002 960501 Engine - Prolonged Crank Time After Hot Soak
SB96-13-L002 960501 Campaign - 96S001 Brush/Grille Guard Separation
SB96-01-L004 960401 Spark Plug Tube - Replacement Procedure
SB96-11-L003 960301 Body/Frame - Passenger Side Floor Clunking Noise
SB96-11-L002 960201 Front Door/Fender - Ice Buildup & Damage
SB96-13-L001 960201 Radio/Speakers - Inoperative/Popping Noises
SB96-05-L001 960101 A/T - (4L30E) Control Module Identification
SB96-14-L002 960101 Engine Coolant - Propylene Glycol Acceptable for Use
SB95-11-L008 951201 Roof Rack - Cross Slats Bow Excessively
SB95-04-L002 951101 Low Fuel Indicator Light - Operation
SB95-13-L001 951101 Security System - Unintentional Activation
SB95-01-L006 950901 Trooper(UX) & Rodeo(UC) SOHC Hydraulic Valve Lifter Pr..
SB95-05-L006 950901 M/T - Shop Manual Corrections
SB95-05-L008 950901 Transfer Case - Repair Procedures (Manual Correction)
SB9501L002 950801 Spark Plug Tube - Replacement
SB95-05-L004 950801 A/T - (4L30E) Diagnostic Procedure Revision
SB95-01-L004 950801 Camshaft Pulley - Service Procedures
SB95-14-L004 950701 Electrical Wiring - Repair Terminal Kit Availability
SB9501L001 950601 Oil Cooler - Center Bolt Torque Value Correction
SB9511L004 950401 Paint - Colors and Codes
SB95-11-L003 950401 Seat Belt Extender - Availability/Installation Procedure
SB95-14-L002 950301 Warranty Parts - Return Shipping Revisions
SB95-11-L001 950201 Campaign - Incorrect Seat Belt Warning Label
SB95-05-L001 950101 TCM/MEM CAL Unit - Updated Replacement Procedures
SB9414003 941201 Workshop Manual - Revisions and Updates
SB9414005 941201 Coolant - Propylene Glycol Not Approved by Isuzu
SB9401003 941201 Cylinder Head Cover - Installation Precautions
SB9405003 941201 MIL ON Erroneous DTCs 33/43 Trans in Backup Mode
SB9408001 941101 Radial Tire - Sidewall Indentations
9411004 940701 Paint - Color Codes & Cross References
9314003 930508 Dexron-IIE Fluid - Recommended Usage
ATRATB078 911101 A/T - How To Use A Pressure Gauge
ATRATB028 901001 A/T - Engine Vacuum Testing
ATRATB9002006 900201 A/T - Choosing the Right ATF
ATRATB8930 891001 A/T - Math Part II
ATRATB8927 890901 A/T - Twenty Steps To Successful Repairs
ATRATB8923 890801 A/T - Math Formulas Part I
8804003 880419 Battery - Testing and Inspection
ATRATB8754 870901 A/T - Front Bushing Wear
ATRATB8748 870801 A/T - Slipping or No-Shift/Metal Sealing Rings

FWIW-
I really like the product offered at http://www.alldatadiy.com (no affiliation).

gentlejax2

Do I leave this 0W30 oil in and change at next interval or do I need to remove it after it has run for 30 minutes?

also is there a place to go and check to see if my vehicle has had recalls performed?

Canucklehead

You leave it in.

You can go here to see if there are any recalls for you vehicle. You should be able to call your local dealer or Isuzu Customer Service to find out if it's been completed. All they should need is your VIN.

__________________
2000 VW New Beetle TDI
2007 Honda CR-V

dmccr

Remember, I'm not even a mechanic... In my case, I ran it for 30min., then changed it back to 10W-30. That was my best guess, trying to stay on the safe side. I wasn't sure if 0W-30 might cause xtra wear.

Also, regards the recalls, I want to be sure you understand me... the list I posted above is NOT recalls, but Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs). Big Difference. The TSBs represent Isuzu-published frequent issues, with recommended service procedures. The majority are NOT even warranty issues, much less recalls.

Have your Honda dealer enter your VIN and see if there are any outstanding recalls (also see if they have a centralized service history, that would be a major bonus). I've no idea if they have such a database.

Good Luck!

gentlejax2

who wants to be the tiebreaker on this? 1 vote leave in/ 1 vote drain it...?

i would drain myself but....

Canucklehead

What's the use of draining the oil that has shown that it eliminates the lifter tick (hence the "If the ticking noise goes away, return the vehicle to the customer." part of the procedure). If you feel uncomfortable for some reason, using 0W30, try 5W30. I myself use Mobil1 5W30 but my Rodeo has never had a ticking problem. The only real difference between 0W30 and 10W30 is that 0W30 is thinner at colder temperatures (i.e. the 0 vs.10), however at normal operating temperatures they have the same viscosity.

__________________
2000 VW New Beetle TDI
2007 Honda CR-V

dmccr

The impression I ended up with was that if it helps, it does the job within 30min., since further procedures are needed if it doesn't resolve by then.

You are correct that it sounds like you leave in the 0W-30 when you "return it to the customer." I wondered if that might be an error though. If the 0W-30 is so wonderful, why isn't it recommended for every oil change?

I also agree that once it is warm, the viscosity is the same. On the other hand, most wear is rumored to take place during cold starts.

It just seems there are reasonable arguments either way. I chose a conservative interpretation.