TioSanchez

94 Camry 5SFE (California): Spark seems weak (orange). New wires/plugs; tested Pri/Sec coil per resistance values in manual (OK). Does anyone know of a test for the igniter? Or some good info on how to proceed with troubleshooting an ignition/igniter problem?

Brian R.

Ignitors are replaced when nothing else can be pinpointed as causing the problem. I would guess that the ignitor is judged as good by measuring its capacitance and probably other circuit characteristics. This is beyond the scope of normal electronic testing.

You probably have a bad ignitor or coil (most likely the coil). The coil resistance is not a good test. It will only tell if the coil is totally dead. If the coil only fails at high voltages (normal operating conditions), you will not detect it with an ohmmeter.

Amarc

I agree with Brian. I would try the High voltage coil before the igniter. The resistance test is not a conclusive test. You should be getting a bright spark if the coil is good. Go to a wreker and you can get a used one fairly cheap $25.

Mike Gerber

I got an aftermarket coil (Borg Warner) at Pep Boys for a 91 3SFE engine for around $40-$45 about 5 years ago. The one for the 5SFE shouldn't be that much more. If it will cost about $25 for one from a recycling yard, I would go with the new aftermarket one. At least you will know it will be good. JMHO.

Mike

Brian R.

New coil is the way to go (unless you are really tight for money). Good quality only...

TioSanchez

Well gents, looks like the "coil" has it. Unfortunately, I replaced the coil yesterday. New Borg Warner for $49.99. So, I suppose my next step is to go with the igniter. I didn't want to get into this game of throwing parts at it until it works. Obviously a little expensive. All that being said, I suppose I should throw a little history in. The car's origianal problem is that it threw a timing belt at 340,000 miles. I pulled it apart, replaced the belt, and started it - twice. Between then and the next day, it wouldn't start again. Went back inside and verified the timing which was spot on. Threw it all back together and made the original post above when it didn't start. I will say this - the battery is dead but I jumped with another vehicle and later hooked up a battery charger with jump capability. Still a nogo. I mention this because I did not once hear the fuel pump energize. Thought maybe in some weird way perhaps jumping was not enough to run the pump. I tried shooting starting fluid in it a few times. Not even a rumble. It's as if the there's no spark at all which there is. I still think it looks a little weak - still a little orange. So, any suggestions or little tricks. I suppose after I throw an igniter in my next stop is the distributor which I don't know much about (air gap? cracked epoxy on the pick up coil?). Thanks in advance for your inputs.

Brian R.

Make sure you have fuel pressure before you do anything else with the ignition. 12 V from any battery should energize the pump.

TioSanchez

Brian - thanks for the reply. I will verify the fuel pressure. However, I have to ask - if it were a fuel problen wouldn't the starter fluid in the intake at least give it a rumble? Again, with the starter fluid it does absolutley nothing. By the way, not sure about the comments regarding the resistance test not being conclusive. Can you explain it in a nutshell or do you know of a good link that discusses coil operation? Thanks. T.O.

Brian R.

You should get fuel pressure no matter if you have spark or not. Fix that first and then you can work on the ignition. (At least that would be my approach).

A volt-ohm meter puts low current 9V through a circuit to test resistance. If the insulation in the coil is marginal, then you may get a good resistance reading with the meter, but under normal operating conditions, the kilovolts in the secondary may break down the insulation and not let the coil function correctly - giving you a low voltage output.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system3.htm

TioSanchez

Bryan - patched in a new igniter. Still nothing. Broke loose the fuel filter line near the fuel rail. Plenty gas poured out. Don't know if it has pressure though. Haven't done that check but understand Autozone may have a tester you can rent. Probably will do that this weekend. Will follow up with a post then to report the results.

TioSanchez

Well, started looking at the fuel system last weekend. Figured I have good spark. I thought it looked a little weak but it was jumping at least a half inch. Someone pointed out to me that if it jumps that far spark is fine. Back to the fuel pump. Pulled the rear seat and ran a jumper directly from the battery. Fuel pump works. Fuses good and relays clicking. Jumped EFI relay - fuel pump operating. Gas to the fuel rail. Got to looking at vacuum attachments on the intake manifold and noticed a port was missing a cap. Stuck finger on cap engine tried to catch (or at least was showing more life than it had!). There are two other vacuum leaks that I created trying to take of the valve cover (took it off to verify engine timing). One is the PCV which broke off at the valve cover. The other was a hose at the throttle body end (maybe connected to the EGR system). Had to cut it to get valve cover off. Secured for the day and went shooting clay pigeons (it's my daughters car). Next weekend will look at fixing all vacuum leaks and trying again to start. I'm hoping the unmetered air is throwing things out of whack.