sockeye3

I've got a mystery to be solved.
I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 and recently noticed that my battery cranking power was dwindling. I checked the guage when driving and was producing over 14 volts. The "Green Eye" was still showing on the battery itself so I figured I had a mystery. The problem kept getting worse until one morning no crank just clicks. (You couldn't see that one coming could ya?) I had to jump it and drive it to work. When I got there I noticed there wasn't enough power to operate the electric door locks. Weird.... I got a jump to go home that evening and noticed that when I took my foot off the throttle to unhook the jumper cables, the engine stalled. I started it up and the same thing happened again.
After power braking home to avoid idling (numerous warning lights including ABS, brake, and battery idiot lights) I replaced the battery. It was only then that I realized what had happened The positive terminal of the battery had completely dropped out of the battery. I'm assuming this was slowly separating and when I hooked up the jumper cables I finished the job. I noticed that it seemed more loose than the neg. side when jumping, but I didn't even consider that the terminal had come out of the battery. It was being held into place by the neoprene wrap around the battery.
My question is...Why would this cause my truck to die, even after the battery has been replaced. I rev the engine and when it comes down it just keeps on going and dies when it should be returning to an idle? I have a bad feeling that it has something to do with damaged electrical sensors or computer. Any suggestions before I take it in for the "lube and ream" job??

sockeye3

I've been doing a little research about my battery and found some interesting information about the AC Delco battery. It appears these batteries have problems with the positive terminal. Watch for leaking batteries guys. Here is the link.
http://www.ripoffreport.com/results....=Delco&q6=&q7=

dr_of_lovephd

First of all, is your check engine light on. If any sensors were damaged that should make the SEM light come on.

If not, your computer probably got some messed up signals when the battery was cutting in and out. The computer may have to relearn the correct idle point. You could try to reset the computer, clear out all of the problem codes, and the just let the truck idle for a while, maybe 30 mins.

I had another vehicle do this before, whenever I came up to stop and let my foot of the gas, the car would die. The mechanic told me to reset the computer and just let it idle for an hour while turning the air conditioner, radio and other electronics on and off. That would let the car relearn the correct idle point.

I thought it sounded pretty stupid to have to teach a vehicle how to idle but it did help the car run better.

tidalcock

how does one reset the computer?

nineball481

I believe all you have to do is disconnect the battery for about five minutes. Although, I have heard some people saying it might take longer. So maybe ten minutes, to be safe.

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carlos80

take the battery into autozone to have it tested new battery doesn't exactly mean its a good battery, it could be defective.

sockeye3

Thanks for the suggestions.
I'll try letting it idle for some time to get the computer right.
When I changed the battery it should have reset the computer. It was disconnected for at least 5 minutes. I'm wondering if the acid has eaten its way down my cable???? If this were true wouldn't that stop me from being able to start it at all?
If nothing works it's off to autozone if I can ride the brake that far.
Thanks again for the suggestions.
Sockeye3

sockeye3

dr_of_lovephd,
You were right. I tried starting it again and it started right up with a stable idle. I turned on the A/C and other accesories to help it relearn the correct idle speed and it's solid now. Weird stuff.
Thanks for your help.
Sockeye3

dustertwister

Sockeye,

My terminal fell out of my AC Delco battery also, but I didn't have your problem. However, my dad has the same truck that I do (01 Silverado) and he had your problem. We took it to the dealer who cleared the trouble code which was a low voltage signal to the throttle body.

The code needs to be cleared, the computer needs to be reset (about 10 minutes without the battery connected) and the dealer said that you need to start the truck up and run it for about 5 minutes at about 2000 rpm so it will "re-learn" the idle speed. Don't ask me how running it over the idle teaches it how to "re-learn" the actual idle but it worked. Not one problem since.

Hope this helps.

twomorestrokes

Terminals are always coming out of the side mount Delco batteries and have for many years. This may sound corny but you should wear safety glasses when unhooking the battery. At the GMC dealership I had first hand views of a couple of Delco's exploding when the techs were unhooking to replace. The positive terminal was loose in the battery case but appeared ok. When the wrench was turned on the terminal bolt, it turned the whole post and shorted the internals together when twisted, prompting explosions violent enough to blow the tops off the batteries. My coworker even had his glasses blown off but they did the trick before leaving his head by shielding most of the acid and force. Luckily there was a hose right there and I just turned it on and doused him and everything else while someone else was after the eyewash kit.

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JCL82

Funny you guys bring this up, because my battery starting to leak from the pos. terminal . . Anyways didn't do anything except change the battery, but i think the acid has been leaking for a while because the battery plate looks like it got ate up alittle bit. Also my windsheild wiper fuild tubes has been ate up , i got to change them but i'm so what being lazy.