Does anyone know what could be used to disolve some of the Dexcool sludge out of the core on my 96? I flushed it back in November with just water and it worked great for about 2-weeks, then slowly lost temperature until no heat at all?

Buy a Prestone Flush N Fill kit, it is a "T" that you install in your heater hose so that you can connect your water hose straight up to it and back flush it. Then use the Prestone Radiator Cleaner. Not the "flush" get the "cleaner". The flush is used for twenty minutes while idling. The Cleaner is used for 3-6 hours while driving, you just drain your system add the cleaner, fill up with water, then drive a few days with your heater on (you don't have to have the fan on, just the temperature control all the way up), then when you drain it all the sludge comes out leaving your radiator and heater core spotless. Then connect your hose to the "T" again and back flush one more time, this will get everything out.
After that Fill with a 50/50 mix of DEXCOOL ( or the green if you prefer, at this point your system is clean enough to convert) and distilled water. NEVER MIX THE TWO! You will have to keep topping it off over the next few days as the air is worked out of the system.

AND THE ABSOLUTE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO REPLACE YOUR RADIATOR CAP, WITH ONE NOT MADE BY AC DELCO. THE AC DELCO ONES THAT CAME ON THESE VEHICLES ARE DEFECTIVE. THAT IS WHAT CAUSED YOUR PROBLEMS IN THE FIRST PLACE. THE BEST ONE TO BUY IS THE "STANT" BRAND YOU CAN PICK THEM UP AT ADVANCE AUTO FOR ABOUT 5 OR 6 BUCKS.

The Prestone Flush N Fill ($4) and the Prestone Radiator Cleaner ($6) can be bought at any parts store and walmart.

Thanks,

I did the flush kit already, apparrently the cleaner works better. I already switched to the new Prestone green, I will NEVER be using Dexsludge again! Unfortunately it is about-6 deg. here, so I guess I will be without heat until it warms up this spring.

If you follow the procedure above there is a very good chance that you will have heat again. Have you replaced you radiator cap? even though you have gotten rid of the DEATH-COOL your cooling system will still work better with the proper cap.

Thanks,

I did the flush kit already, apparrently the cleaner works better. I already switched to the new Prestone green, I will NEVER be using Dexsludge again! Unfortunately it is about-6 deg. here, so I guess I will be without heat until it warms up this spring.

Chances are you didn't get all the dexcool out and the green and orange mixed to create gray sludge.

There is nothing wrong with Dexcool. The only problem is the rad cap and people not doing the proper maintanence like waiting almostt 10 years to replace the coolant when it was supposed to be done in 5.

I ran it for 20 minutes with the garden hose hooked up to the tee, so I know there was no dex left in it. There are no signs of grey sludge in the radiator, and the cross tubes are still clean and flowing. I did put a Stant cap on too before all of this just to be safe. I am noticing brown chunkies in the heater hoses again and the outlet hose is not as hot as the inlet so I guess some more worked loose from the motor.

The water can only clean where it can circulate. If there are sections clogged up. The water won't help that much, you need to use a chemical to disolve the sludge before those area will be cleaned.

Very true, water dissolves nothing.

I just did my own heatercore flush a few days ago and now I have burning hot heat in subzero temperatures-> success! Cost: $1.50 (in quarters)

I went to a "diy" car wash and disconncted the 2 heatercore hoses and blasted it with the high pressure hose. There was definetely residue and "clay" in there, but it was whitish mud (maybe just mixed with water). It worked great, no mess, and ony took 5 minutes. The high pressure of the hose was more than that of a garden hose, and I think that did the trick.

*Note you have to let your vehicle cool down before disconnecting heatercore hoses. I didn't do this because my hoses weren't hot (because of blockage), but the block was still hot. Coolant was everywhere. Thank goodness it wasn't on my driveway.

I just did my own heatercore flush a few days ago and now I have burning hot heat in subzero temperatures-> success! Cost: $1.50 (in quarters)

I went to a "diy" car wash and disconncted the 2 heatercore hoses and blasted it with the high pressure hose. There was definetely residue and "clay" in there, but it was whitish mud (maybe just mixed with water). It worked great, no mess, and ony took 5 minutes. The high pressure of the hose was more than that of a garden hose, and I think that did the trick.

*Note you have to let your vehicle cool down before disconnecting heatercore hoses. I didn't do this because my hoses weren't hot (because of blockage), but the block was still hot. Coolant was everywhere. Thank goodness it wasn't on my driveway.

Although it did help, you need to have your cooling system flushed and refilled with fresh coolant or the problem will quickly come back.

Don't start being cheap, get the job done properly.

Although it did help, you need to have your cooling system flushed and refilled with fresh coolant or the problem will quickly come back.

Don't start being cheap, get the job done properly.


somewhere along the line i was told that if you use dexcool then switch to standard green it has a reaction with the residue possibly causing permanent damage to some components,not sure if its true or not.just thought i would mention it


fllatire

somewhere along the line i was told that if you use dexcool then switch to standard green it has a reaction with the residue possibly causing permanent damage to some components,not sure if its true or not.just thought i would mention it


fllatire

What you heard is right.

Dexcool is used in our engines because it is non corrosive.

Although it did help, you need to have your cooling system flushed and refilled with fresh coolant or the problem will quickly come back.

Don't start being cheap, get the job done properly.

It wasn't my goal to be cheap, but to get the job done as well and as fast as possible. It was way too cold to spend an hour (or an afternoon) trying to fix this problem as I have no garage. Aside from that the nearest autoparts store that has those flush products is a half hour away, and I don't have time for that either. For now the heatercore heats up fast and keeps me warm better than I ever imagined it could.

BlazerLT has this under control fairly well, but let me add a note or two to this concern.
The problem is the heater core clogging up...the cause is the buildup of sludge in the engine cooling passages that are getting stuck in the heater core.
if you flush just the core, you are masking the problem not solving it.

Go ahead and spend the time to completely flush the cooling system..its better to do something right once than wrong a bunch of times.

Just a reminder when I say "Green" I am referring to the new Prestone "Geen" that is compatible with Dex-Cool. If you don't completely eliminate the Dex and add the "old" green Prestone, you will get a sludge problem after time.

Just my $.02

From a chemistry standpoint Dexcool is propylene glycol and is mixable with water at all concentrations. Old green antifreeze is ethylene glycol and is also mixable with water at all concentrations.

Dexcool (propylene glycol) apparently polymerizes under certain conditions *my guess is a small amount of engine oil mixed with iron oxides* (which is the sludge observed in the heater core).

They switched to propylene glycol (Dexcool) from ethylene glycol (old green), primarily for environmental concerns (cats like the taste and it crystalized their kidneys... it also harms dogs and humans in high enough concentrations).

Ethylene glycol has better properties (regarding raising boiling point and lowering the freezing point of the coolant) than propylene glycol at the same concentrations.

So to make Dexcool sound better, they increased the concentration of the rust inhibitors and pH buffer and gave it a longer listed operating value (ie. 150, 000 miles vs. 30,000 miles for old green).

This is all my opinion as a chemist and I am willing to debate my conclusions.

Just a reminder when I say "Green" I am referring to the new Prestone "Geen" that is compatible with Dex-Cool. If you don't completely eliminate the Dex and add the "old" green Prestone, you will get a sludge problem after time.

Just my $.02

From my knowledge, the compatible stuff is yellow.

Anything green is non compatible and has a silca based formulation.

Yeah, the new prestone that is compatible with everything is yellow.

You guys are right, it is yellow... I know I read Dex compatible and the stuff was $9.50 a gal!! I guess the $3.99 days are long gone..

Yeah I bought a gallon of the yellow for 8.99 when I flushed out my heatercore. I didn't need it though, because I had more than enough in my reservoir. Now I can't find the reciept.

Yea, stick to the proper coolant for your truack and don't experiment with the new stuff.

96 blazer...same deal...heater blows cold and engine runs hot, now i seem to have a pinhole leak just under the a.c. motor in the engine compart.(drivers side). sometimes i hear a gurgling under the dash and the temp goes down for a while,but pegs quickly after. flushing my heater core will fix it long enough to get it to the shop(in a couple days)
right?

96 blazer...same deal...heater blows cold and engine runs hot, now i seem to have a pinhole leak just under the a.c. motor in the engine compart.(drivers side). sometimes i hear a gurgling under the dash and the temp goes down for a while,but pegs quickly after. flushing my heater core will fix it long enough to get it to the shop(in a couple days)
right?

No, you need to do a complete flush. I sounds like you neglected your cooling system and your dexcool has turned to sludge. Judging by the problems you described the problem is larger than just your heater core your entire system is affected. I usually recommend doing the flush yourself, but in your case I would recommend a shop if your intake gasket is leaking, ( the leak near tha A/C) connecting a water hose to backflush could cause lots of damage. (you system leaks with 16 psi, usually a water hose has around 40 pounds of pressure just think of the damage....water in the cylinders, water in the oil. You will also need to change out your Radiator Cap with one not made by AC Delco, perferably a Stant (sold at Advance Auto for $5-$6).

You need to investigate to see where the leak is first, if it's not the intake gasket (maybe the water pump) you can safely fix this yourself without a shop.

FYI the gurgling in the dash is air in your heater core...a sign of a bad cap.

Yes, take it into the shop and have them perform a heater core and engine cooling system flush.

Also, are you saying the heater core is leaking in the passenger compartment?

Took it to the shop to get a complete system flush, said they couldnt do it because I had a leak. Needless to say I was quite "PO'd", because I just spent $1200 getting it registered...,new cat, tune up...etc, anyway I get it home tonite thinking I'll take it to the car wash and do it myself and I fill the radiator with water and notice now that it leaks ALOT underneath by the tranny but I cant find the actual leak. Me thinks I may have blown it!?

.... by the way, I've always loved the blazer post 93 body style and I just got this about two months ago....I'm getting slightly discouraged, but remain optomistic that my initial cost of purchase, $0, and the $1200 I spent to make it legal, I figure I'll go another $1500 or $2000, after that its not such a good deal anymore

excellent forum you guys have here. im having the same problem as most above on my 99 ZR2. Think i may bring it to jiffylube for a full system reverse flush.

Heater is blowing cold air, and gets luke warm at high idle. Im thinking it just needs a good flush. 56k miles. Any comments on bringing it to jiffylube? I'd do it myself, but i havent picked up a Haynes yet for the truck and i dont really have any place to dispose of the used antifreeze. Thanks for any help in advance.

The procedure is easy enough that you don't need a haynes book I can give you step by step directions and tell you what to get, it is cheaper to do it yourself and you can do a better job, but it is messy.

Although doing it yourself is ideal, changing coolant and doing the flush on your own in the winter is just messy as hell.

Seeing you only do it every 3-5 years, I recommend having a shop do it since they will collect the mess, and they have all the proper fitting and proper cleaners.

took it to jiffylube.... they did the full flush for 54 bucks... heat was still blowing cold air... made "buddy buddy" with the mechanic... showed him how to flush out the heater core.... we pulled both hoses off the block.... did reverse flush and forward flush a few mins each....heat is hot as ever.. .all fixed.... gave him a nice tip....

Im grateful to this forum for its insight.... thanks everyone...

remember, new rad cap

10-4 on the new cap. I know this is not the proper way, but I did the carwash trick on the core to back flush and it worked. I wish I had a heated garage so I can run cleaner through it with straight water, I'm to nervous with these cold temps to try and run it for 3-6 hrs. with h2o.

10-4 on the new cap. I know this is not the proper way, but I did the carwash trick on the core to back flush and it worked. I wish I had a heated garage so I can run cleaner through it with straight water, I'm to nervous with these cold temps to try and run it for 3-6 hrs. with h2o.

Take it to a shop and have it done properly.

I went to the parts store (Autozone) to get a new rad cap and they didn't have a 15 psi cap. The guy told me that anything between 13 and 17 psi would be fine. Is that true? I figure that if the system is made to be 15, it should stay 15, or is there a safety margin? Any help will be appreciated.

You can get a 16psi Stant from Advance Auto. The Stant brand are high quality and will last a long time.

My 2000 Jimmy had the same issue with little to no heat, gurgling sound on passenger side of truck. A quick inspection of the fluid level showed a little low but the coolant was still clear and orange. I did a self flush at home by removing both heater hoses completely from the heater core fittings and connecting a garden hose (with the end cut off) with a hose clamp directly to the smaller heater core hose fitting after running the Prestone "Flush" (not Cleaner) through it. I also flushed the engine block using the heater hose that goes into the top of the block. Everything seems to be working fine, plenty of heat and no more gurgling. But nothing beats a properly performed reverse flush. If your system was neglected it is the only sure way to get all of the crud out of you system. I also recommend that you never put tap water into your radiator. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYs use DISTILLED Water. NOT bottled drinking water, go to the grocery store and buy DISTILLED WATER. It costs about $.50 a gal and is well worth the trouble.

don't get one that is less than 15psi.

16psi is fine.

Hey guys, I drive a 1997 grand prix GT ( I know it is different) but i also experience the same problems above. Mechanics performed a flush but that did not solve the problem and perhaps made it worse. Should i perform the flush myself? Any suggestions?

Hey guys, I drive a 1997 grand prix GT ( I know it is different) but i also experience the same problems above. Mechanics performed a flush but that did not solve the problem and perhaps made it worse. Should i perform the flush myself? Any suggestions?

They probably did a half ass job. If the system is clogged it needs to be backflushed well and cleaned with a chemical flush. You can do a lot better job than most shops will do, but it is a little messy.

Replace the cap as well.

All GM's with the stick cap are being affected by the poor cap.

Hey guys, I drive a 1997 grand prix GT ( I know it is different) but i also experience the same problems above. Mechanics performed a flush but that did not solve the problem and perhaps made it worse. Should i perform the flush myself? Any suggestions?

They might have done the flush incorrectly, but chances are you have airlock. I agree that you shouldn't use "ghetto flushes" to make up for neglecting your cooling system, but if you have maintained your fluids well or even payed a shop to flush and fill, more flushes might not get the air out of there.

If you want to do it yourself, follow one of these methods;

For system with Sludge:

Buy the following:
2 gallons of distilled water $1
2 gallons of Dexcool $20
Prestone Flush 'N Fill kit $4
Prestone Radiator "Flush" $4

Turn your heater on and leave it on for the entire process

Drain the anitfreeze from the system.

Install the "T" from the Flush 'N Fill kit and follow the directions that came with it.

Disconnect the water hose, close all the drains, add the Prestone Flush, fill with water, get engine up to operating temperature and run for 20 minutes, allow to cool then, drain the system.

Connect your water hose to the Flush 'N Fill "T" and flush one more time. Drain.

Fill the system with a 50/50 mix of DexCool and distilled water. Continue to fill the system over the next few days as the air is worked out of the system.








For clogged, neglicted, or extremely dirty systems:

Buy the following:

2 gallons of distilled water $1
2 gallons of Dexcool $20
Prestone Flush 'N Fill kit $4
Prestone Radiator "cleaner" not "flush" $6

Turn your heater on and leave it on for the entire process

Drain the anitfreeze from the system.

Install the "T" from the Flush 'N Fill kit and follow the directions that came with it.

Disconnect the water hose, close all the drains, add the Prestone Cleaner, fill with water, run the engine 3-6 hours (you can leave it in for a few days if neccessary), drain the system.

Connect your water hose to the Flush 'N Fill "T" and flush one more time. Drain.

Fill the system with a 50/50 mix of DexCool and distilled water. Continue to fill the system over the next few days as the air is worked out of the system.

BlazerLT,

How about putting my last post on a sticky for radiator maintenance, you should probably add to change the rad cap though.

Will consider it when the condensing commenses.

This airlock you speak of, is there a good chance i can solve it by the methods you listed? Mechanics tell me that the heater core typically needs to be replaced? Is this usually the case or does a thourough flushing/cleansing take care of it most of the time?

This airlock you speak of, is there a good chance i can solve it by the methods you listed? Mechanics tell me that the heater core typically needs to be replaced? Is this usually the case or does a thourough flushing/cleansing take care of it most of the time?

Needs to be replaced when?

This airlock you speak of, is there a good chance i can solve it by the methods you listed? Mechanics tell me that the heater core typically needs to be replaced? Is this usually the case or does a thourough flushing/cleansing take care of it most of the time?

Sounds like they are trying to screw you, it should only be replaced if leaking. I haven't seen one yet that couldn't be unclogged. They will probably back flush and tell you they replaced it.

They might have done the flush incorrectly, but chances are you have airlock. I agree that you shouldn't use "ghetto flushes" to make up for neglecting your cooling system, but if you have maintained your fluids well or even payed a shop to flush and fill, more flushes might not get the air out of there.

Any air in the system will be removed by a properly working rad cap:

As the coolant circulates the air moves to the radiator (the highest point). As the temperature increases the coolant expands, this expansion causes pressure when the pressure reaches 16psi the air pushes past the cap and goes into the overflow which is vented allowing the air to escape. When the system cools back down it draws coolant back in from the overflow. After repeating this process several times all the air will be evacuated from the system.

If the cap is defective instead of drawing coolant in from the overflow it will leak around the cap pulling air back in to the system. That is why a properly working cap is crucial for a healthy system.

Phoenix69, First, I think you need to give us a few more symptoms of what exactly your problems are.

Second, If you are living in an area known for its hard water (like Phoenix), Radiator corrosion and plugged radiator/heater cores are much higher. If you perform a good thorough clean/flush as described by Blazee and install a new CLOSED LOOP Rad cap you should see improvement. Don't buy the AC Delco Cap! A new cap will force the air out automatically. You can easily verify this in the morning when the engine is cold. Open the rad cap and the observe the coolant level. It should be full to the very top of the radiator.

I would not just run out and drop $200-$300 for a new heater core. This is just a hungry mechanic trying to make a fast buck by screwing you.

Try disconnecting both heater hoses and attaching a garden hose directly to one of the heater core fittings, you might need a hose clamp. Turn the water on full force and see how much water is flowing through your heater core. This will blow any loose crud out of the core and might solve your problem. If you observe limited flow, or if you're having still having problems after the flush, Then it may be time for a new core.

I have read that if you turn it on full force you risk a chance of blowing a line, and also that if you run your engine while running cold water through it you run the risk of warping internal aluminum components from the great difference in temperatures.
Before i bought my car i saw that the coolant was in poor condition and thought that a good flush would fix it. When i did the test drives i didnt notice the sloshing noise. After i brought it home a few days later i noticed the noise. When my dad brought the car back for the flush that the manager had agreed to my car thermostat/thermometer blew out. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the flushing or if it was just already dead. But anyways the flushing seemed to possibly have made it worse. I talked to another mechanic about the problem and he said that he's seen it several times with all makes of cars and that he flushed a mans system 7 times and it did not solve the problem, and that the system had to be replaced. He said that this may be the case with me, he told me this not looking for work (didn't say come back here or anything, seemed honest).

****The symtoms my car has are as follows:*******

1.) When the heat it turned fully up I get luke warm air from my blower even when the engine is fully warmed up (told that a clean system should almost burn your hand).

2.) Whenever I accelerate or take a turn/accerlate I can hear a sloshing noise, as if alot of water is going through tubes, sounds like a good gallon+ worth of water in front of the dash, perhaps moreso on the passengerside of my car.

I originally thought that the water noise i was hearing was a drain that had become blocked up or possibly a water filled cowl and started to retain rain water. Another thing that made me think this possible was a hole in the weatherstripping around my windshield at the bottom/passenger side. It seemed that after a rain storm the sloshing became louder (perhaps imagination). Mechanics said that they checked and did not find any blockages. I too checked the HAVOC box and other drains and have not found a blockage. All mechanics and other people on forums have directed me towards the conclusion that I have a clogged up heater core. It seems as if my 1997 Grand Prix has never been flushed. The car has 50,000 miles on it if that has any importance.

O.K. let me clarify. The actual flushing is done with the engine turned OFF. I kinda doubt the part about cold water warping engine components. How cold do you think the water is when you start the car in the morning when it is freezing outside? The worst that would happen is that the engine would probably run rich. However, to the point, make sure the engine is not running when you perform the flush.

If you diconnect BOTH heater hoses and connect a garden hose, you should get some flow through the core, and very little pressure build up. If you don't get any flow through the heater core, it won't matter as the core is plugged solid and probably shot.

Have you replaced the Radiator cap yet?

Your core is probably not even clogged if you have been through all those flushes. Airlock in the heatercore is very common. While you car is cold do the heatercore flush that has been outlined.

Sounds like the rad cap is leaking in air.

Replace with anything other than a AC Delco, Stant is the right brand at Autozone.

Also, did they reverse flush the heater core?

I'm not sure if they did reverse flush on my heater core. Can you help me pick of the exact rad cap that i need?

Go to autozone and use their application guide to get the right stat for you.

The Autozone in my area doesn't sell Stant. Around here you have to go to Advance Auto. Autozone doesn't sell them online either.

Would Pepboys have it?

Probably. Any other brand name except AC Delco will do just fine. I'm running whatever the generic brand name is that Autozone sells. The AC Delco's leak air, that's why you don't want them.

i had the problem of cold heat, i flushed my radiator today and its awesome, try that see how it works

97blazr2, did you get the radiator or the heater core flushed?

When you flush your entire system i thought your radiator would be flushed as well? I'm a noob.

Also, I've heard of getting a cracked upper plenum resulting in coolant leaking into engine for my 3800 series II. Also that certain gaskets are corroded over time and cause specific leaks. I was wondering if any of these coolant flushers/cleansing chemicals would damage the gaskets or if they are safe to use.

Also, I've heard of getting a cracked upper plenum resulting in coolant leaking into engine for my 3800 series II. Also that certain gaskets are corroded over time and cause specific leaks. I was wondering if any of these coolant flushers/cleansing chemicals would damage the gaskets or if they are safe to use.

The chemicals shouldn't hurt the gaskets, HOWEVER if you gasket is deteriated connecting a water hose and turning it on high pressure will.

You system runs at around 16psi, a normal water hose is around 40psi. If it leaks at 16 just imagine what it will do at 40.....

AHhhh...

Any easy roundabout way i can check for such leaks? or do i just have to hope for the best?

Not wanting to sound like a smartass, but... the best way to tell if you have a leak is to check you coolant level. If it is low or you have to add regularly then you have a leak. From what I have read on the forums of AF alot of the leaks can be seen by inspecting around the intake.

Hm, no offence taken, i'm still learning about cars having got my first one not too long ago and am trying to fix things.

According to chevy a system in good condition will withstand up to 50psi, but I would never go higher than neccessary to remove the blockage. A reverse flush doesn't require much pressure to clear the system. I have had great success at pressures closer to 20psi and didn't have to jeopardize the system.

In your name tag here i see youve worked on your rotors, i just noticed on one of mine that it has a 1/16 or 1/8 inch deep line carved into it about the width of a penny. What could have cause this and should i get it checked out?

Any easy roundabout way i can check for such leaks? or do i just have to hope for the best?


The easiest way to check for cooling system leaks is to go to Autozone and borrow the Pressure Cap tool. It is a Radiator cap with a small tire pump on it. When your engine is cool and turned OFF, you remove your Radiator cap, make sure your coolant is topped off and install the pressure cap tool. Pump the pump to approx. 15-16 lbs pressure and look for any leaks. Have a flashlight handy and an inspection mirror if you have one. This will safely allow you to see even the tiniest leaks unless they are hidden from view like in the heater core. After that, it is like Blazee says, "Watch your coolant level".

The chemicals shouldn't hurt the gaskets, HOWEVER if you gasket is deteriated connecting a water hose and turning it on high pressure will.

You system runs at around 16psi, a normal water hose is around 40psi. If it leaks at 16 just imagine what it will do at 40.....


I'd like to comment about the "Garden Hose Flush"

The basic concept here is to FLUSH the system, not to PRESSURE TEST the system.

When ever I use a garden hose to flush a system, I ALWAYS leave the water a way to escape. I NEVER try to build up pressure by sealing off all of the openings.

If I am trying to flush the heater core for example, I alway disconnect BOTH heater hoses, attach the garden hose to one side and let the water FLUSH the core out through the other side.

I also like to attach the garden hose to the heater hose that that comes out of the top of the block, however, when I do, I remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and flush the crud out of the block and not into the radiator.

I also like to remove both radiator hoses and wrap a rag around the garden hose and flush the radiator out going in both directions.

BUT THE WATER ALWAYS HAS A WAY TO ESCAPE.

I have performed the above mentioned flush on countless vehicles over 35 years of mechanical work and NEVER caused any damage, blown out any gaskets, ruptured any radiators, ruined any heater cores, or created any bigger problems than were already there. In fact this has worked great for me and I have always ended up with a good clean system.

The word of the day here is caution and common sense. If you don't feel comfortable doing this type of flush, don't do it.

Peace to all and good luck.

Rick

In your name tag here i see youve worked on your rotors, i just noticed on one of mine that it has a 1/16 or 1/8 inch deep line carved into it about the width of a penny. What could have cause this and should i get it checked out? Check you pads, it may be time for new brakes. If the gash is that deep you will need to replace the damaged rotor. I highly recommend you replace the one on the other side as well.

I'd like to comment about the "Garden Hose Flush"

The basic concept here is to FLUSH the system, not to PRESSURE TEST the system.

When ever I use a garden hose to flush a system, I ALWAYS leave the water a way to escape. I NEVER try to build up pressure by sealing off all of the openings.

If I am trying to flush the heater core for example, I alway disconnect BOTH heater hoses, attach the garden hose to one side and let the water FLUSH the core out through the other side.

I also like to attach the garden hose to the heater hose that that comes out of the top of the block, however, when I do, I remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and flush the crud out of the block and not into the radiator.

I also like to remove both radiator hoses and wrap a rag around the garden hose and flush the radiator out going in both directions.

BUT THE WATER ALWAYS HAS A WAY TO ESCAPE.

I have performed the above mentioned flush on countless vehicles over 35 years of mechanical work and NEVER caused any damage, blown out any gaskets, ruptured any radiators, ruined any heater cores, or created any bigger problems than were already there. In fact this has worked great for me and I have always ended up with a good clean system.

The word of the day here is caution and common sense. If you don't feel comfortable doing this type of flush, don't do it.

Peace to all and good luck.

Rick

right. you alway leave the cap off and the drain open while flushing.

The point isn't that the system develops high pressure, it is that the water is going in at high pressure.

The easiest way to check for cooling system leaks is to go to Autozone and borrow the Pressure Cap tool. It is a Radiator cap with a small tire pump on it. When your engine is cool and turned OFF, you remove your Radiator cap, make sure your coolant is topped off and install the pressure cap tool. Pump the pump to approx. 15-16 lbs pressure and look for any leaks. Have a flashlight handy and an inspection mirror if you have one. This will safely allow you to see even the tiniest leaks unless they are hidden from view like in the heater core. After that, it is like Blazee says, "Watch your coolant level".

That is an easy way to locate leaks, but not to determine if you have a leak. The best way to determine if you have a leak is to check your coolant level.

right. you alway leave the cap off and the drain open while flushing.

The point isn't that the system develops high pressure, it is that the water is going in at high pressure.


I guess I just don't see a problem with that. A large volume of water is going in at a higher pressure, yes, but isn't that the purpose of a flush?

Water, like just about everything else, will follow the least path of resistance, if water is slowly added into a system, a clogged tube will simply force the water into an open tube, and pockets of crud will probably remain pockets of crud. The desired result is to dislodge and move pockets of crud out of the system and possibly open up partially clogged radiator tubes.

As I stated in earlier threads, nothing beats a properly performed Reverse Power Flush, but if you're low on funds, this might just get you through another season. I have never seen anything damaged as a result of using a garden hose to flush a cooling system.

That is an easy way to locate leaks, but not to determine if you have a leak. The best way to determine if you have a leak is to check your coolant level.


I agree!

I guess I just don't see a problem with that. A large volume of water is going in at a higher pressure, yes, but isn't that the purpose of a flush?

Water, like just about everything else, will follow the least path of resistance, if water is slowly added into a system, a clogged tube will simply force the water into an open tube, and pockets of crud will probably remain pockets of crud. The desired result is to dislodge and move pockets of crud out of the system and possibly open up partially clogged radiator tubes.

As I stated in earlier threads, nothing beats a properly performed Reverse Power Flush, but if you're low on funds, this might just get you through another season. I have never seen anything damaged as a result of using a garden hose to flush a cooling system.

I agree. A garden hose won't damage a normal system, the topic was that it could worsen an already damged system. The water will follow the path of least resistence which in some cases would be through a deteriated gasket rather than the clogged portion of the system.

I agree! I just want to make it clear...I wasn't disputing your advice. I just wanted to clarify that he should make sure he has a leak, before he starts trying to find it.

I agree. A garden hose won't damage a normal system, the topic was that it could worsen an already damged system. The water will follow the path of least resistence which in some cases would be through a deteriated gasket rather than the clogged portion of the system.


This may come as quite a shock, But I agree too!

My last parting comment would be that if I had a potential, looming defect, like a deteriorating gasket, I'd rather find out while sitting in my driveway as opposed to 100 miles away from nowhere.

I just want to make it clear...I wasn't disputing your advice. I just wanted to clarify that he should make sure he has a leak, before he starts trying to find it.

We're starting to agree too much! No Problem here.

I don't mind anyone disputing my advice as long it is for a good logical reason. I've been wrong before and no one is perfect. I've learned a lot and hopefully helped a few people as well.

The whole purpose of this Forum is to share ideas and help each other.

Good luck!

We're starting to agree too much! No Problem here.

I don't mind anyone disputing my advice as long it is for a good logical reason. I've been wrong before and no one is perfect. I've learned a lot and hopefully helped a few people as well.

The whole purpose of this Forum is to share ideas and help each other.

Good luck!

I agree. :lol2:

I just want to let you know, I love you guys...

I just want to let you know, I love you guys...

*looks around*

Why do I feel nervous?

You can't recognize a beautiful thing! LOL!

I just want to let you know, I love you guys...

I hope you mean that in a non :gay: way.

I hope you mean that in a non :gay: way.


I HOPE THIS DOESN'T MEAN WE NEED TO START PICKING OUT CURTAINS!

I hope you mean that in a non :gay: way.

hahaha no, sorry to dissapoint you, but let's try not to be offensive guys

Reverse flush, what is that, going from both ends?

Reverse flush, what is that, going from both ends?

Reverse Flush is flushing the engine in the opposite direction than the coolant normally flows during circulation.

Is there anything else you really do differently?

Is there anything else you really do differently?

Honestly, I've never seen one done. If my information is correct, there is a special pump that is used with various attachments to reverse flush the heater core, the engine block, and radiator. I am not sure what type of solution is used, whether a chemical solvent, an Acid or water is used.

Hm, i think mine needs that done, its prolly clogged up like no other, when i looked in i it looked like mud.

Also, is there a chance my water pump is dead? How can i check to see if this is operating properly. And also, I've already mentioned it but when my car was initially flushed, the thermostat blew out, could this be a sign for anything?

Also, is there a chance my water pump is dead? How can i check to see if this is operating properly. And also, I've already mentioned it but when my car was initially flushed, the thermostat blew out, could this be a sign for anything?

Usually water pumps don't just quit pumping. When a water pump goes out, it most often is because the mechanical seal goes out and it starts leaking coolant through the little weeper hole in the bottom of the water pump casting. The annoying little leak from the weeper hole is to tell you that a bigger problem is around the corner and hopefully gives you enough time to get the problem fixed. I have also seen the bearings sieze up in the water pump and it either howls like a dog, or quits turning all together, and the belt just squeels on the pulley.

If your coolant looks like mud and/or your heater is blowing cold and/or your engine over heats, it is time to either take it in to a reputable garage for a Reverse Power Flush, or perform a thorough flush of the system yourself. The procedure has been explained on this and several other threads in this Forum. I strongly recommend that if your system is as bad as you say it is, take it to a garage this time and see if they will let you watch the procedure, and don't let them charge you more than approx. $150 USD.

What part of the country do you live in?

Chicago, IL

Chicago, IL

You shouldn't have any trouble finding a good reputable garage!

Hm, rgr, I'm barely 18 and am very cheap but actually intelligent and I would probably want to do the flush myself with the aid of somebody.

Better do it properly.

If not you could create all sorts of problems.

Hm, rgr, I'm barely 18 and am very cheap but actually intelligent and I would probably want to do the flush myself with the aid of somebody.

I admire your ambition. That is the only way you'll learn, and is how most of us started.

Please take a piece of advice and make sure that the "SOMEBODY" that helps you knows what they're doing. As I stated earlier, the process has been outlined many times in this and other threads.

Good Luck.

In case you guys haven't noticed, this thread now has the most replies in the Blazer forum.

Although doing it yourself is ideal, changing coolant and doing the flush on your own in the winter is just messy as hell.


Unless you live where the sun shines like California!

I didn't see anyone post here using an adaptor for the garden hose. Prestone sells a flush kit that includes an adaptor for the garden hose. The adaptor is also a restrictor. I don't know the pressure it allows, but it does restrict the flow. The kit is pretty cheap (~$10) and has instructions so it is n00b friendly.

I didn't see anyone post here using an adaptor for the garden hose. Prestone sells a flush kit that includes an adaptor for the garden hose. The adaptor is also a restrictor. I don't know the pressure it allows, but it does restrict the flow. The kit is pretty cheap (~$10) and has instructions so it is n00b friendly.

It has been posted in this thread many times, it is called the Prestone Flush 'N Fill kit. they cost about $4.

A while back, I asked for help with the "no heat" problem. I added antifreeze the first time and it temporarily solved the problem........for about a week. So I came back to the forum and further searched. Found where one of you guys suggested the rad cap. I ran down to AZ and grabbed the STANT. It has now been about two months, my kids (they're 20) are driving the thing in the mountains at ASU and the end result...............no more heating problems! I should've thanked you guys earlier but I'll do it now! THANKS A TON!!!! - Jay

Hahaha, last weekend it was 85 degrees and really sunny here in lansing, it has been above 60 for nearly a month!

This weekend it is 30 degrees and snowing, it's april 23 and we're supposed to get 4 inches of snow tonight... At least my heat works!

Will I be at risk for overheating using the Prestone cleaner and water? I drive around 100 miles a day and am a little worried...

Also, is it possible to drain ALL the liquid out of the engine etc? I always have a hell of a time getting the mix correct - since there is some water already in the system...

Will I be at risk for overheating using the Prestone cleaner and water? I drive around 100 miles a day and am a little worried...

Also, is it possible to drain ALL the liquid out of the engine etc? I always have a hell of a time getting the mix correct - since there is some water already in the system...

As long as your radiator cap is good, you will be fine. Water has a higher boiling point when under pressure. Water boils at 212° F, with the 15psi rad cap the water's boiling point is raised to about 250° F. A 50/50 mix of antifreeze only takes it up to about 264° F.

You can drain almost all the water out using the drain plugs on the block, but it is a pain in the ass. The easiest way to get a true 50/50 mix is to add the required amount of pure antifreeze then top off with distilled water. This is to be done after draining and flushing, so that you know it is pure water already in the block.

hey, i know this thread is 8 months old..if anyone has more input on the dexcool-to-green fluid change lets hear it. someone convinced me to have it done last year, and now it looks like remnants of dex-cool sludge is in the reservoir, and the fluid is brownish in color. you'd all probably agree that when the dex cool was flushed, there was still some left in it when they put the green in. they even sold me on some sort of 'cleaner that is necessary to change to green' for 28 bucks. i'm going to get the whole system flushed out. should I have them put dex cool back in, or just keep the green stuff?? pls help.

For what it's worth, my mechanic says just keep it green and make life simpler. However, I recall that "Prestone" has a new line that doesn't care what your current color is. You can put it in no matter what you've got in there right now.

This is why you stick with Dexcool. There is nothing wrong with Dexcool, the problem is the crappy rad cap that everyone should replace.

yes, but what's done is done. my question is now what should I do?

yes, but what's done is done. my question is now what should I do?

You have two choices, you can take it to a reputable garage and pay to have a REVERSE POWER FLUSH done, or you can flush the system yourself using radiator cleaners and a garden house. The best by far is the REVERSE POWER FLUSH. However, if your low on funds, the garden hose my be your only option. I agree with BlazerLT and say to get the system flushed and re-fill with Dexcool and replace the cap. :2cents:

just get it flushed at a shop again and replace the rad cap.

will do. thanks guys.