duplox

Well here are some new pics of my project.
Inside the plenum


One side:


The other side


TB flange. I straightend it out since I took the picture. Not so raw lookin anymore. Cut my right middle finger on the ridge left by the holesaw. That one has since healed, but today I nailed my other middle with a cutoff wheel. Gloves dont do shit against tools meant to cut metal... First grinder mishap so far, however. You can see the dead cleveland in the background, getting covered in tons of metal dust. You can also see the welder, and my trusty Workmate 2000 work bench. Poor little thing is hurtin'.


Another shot of the inside of the plenum


More...

More...


This is what happens when you weld on galvanized steel in an enclosed space. Oops.

Note the torch and fire extinguisher next to each other... the fire extinguisher is empty, the torch is not... Oops again.

Mocked up on the motor:


Comparing the height to a crappy single plane carb intake, 1" spacer, a carb(well part of a carb, no fuel bowls/metering blocks on it), and a drop base air cleaner. I think that element is 2.5" or so. The top of the carb stud just barely hits my hoodscoop. This is the #1 reason why I love EFI.


The mess that is my car.. it hasn't moved in a very, very long time.

GTmike400

Sweet man! Glad to see some of your work. Be careful weldin' galvanized, the zinc does produce toxic gases. Why are you using galvanized anyway?

__________________
-Mike
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In Progress: Time Attack/Circuit Racer Mitsubishi Evo V

TheSilentChamber

Nice, Curious as to how well it will flow, but with forced induction flow isnt as important is it is with NA. What throttle body are you going to use? and what is that white putty junk around the bottom of the plumes? I dont see any injector bungs either... maby this is why its in progress heh.

duplox

The putty is POR 2 part putty stuff. The problem was I couldn't weld all the way around the bottom of the runners to the intake flanges because the bolt spacer got in the way, so I tried to putty it. My brother said the POR stuff was great, and he had some left over, so I gave it a shot. The stuff is pretty crappy, so I'll be grinding it off. It claimed it was 'machineable like steel', but its weak as hell. Grinding it off will take 20 minutes. I could probably just hit it with a torch(outdoors of course, I learned my lesson with the galvanized...) and it'd discintigrate.
I'll probably finish cleaning up the ports on the intake flanges then weld them on from the inside. Maybe put a little line of epoxy around the bases just to make it look pretty.
I also have some very good high temp iron based silicon adhesive that I bought for filling my exhaust ports, that stuff will surely do a better job than the POR crap. POR is good for patching cracks in sheetmetal, terrible for any kind of filling or mechanical strength.
I'll be putting on the injector bungs in a few days, thats probably the next thing I'll do. I haven't decided where I'm going to mount the injectors. Either on top of the runners, or on the inside, over the valley. I'd have to angle the injectors towards the back of the motor to fit them. Rails will be individual 'caps' mounted on each injector with an aluminum fuel lines combining into two lines, tri-y style. Those lines will go to my fuel pressure reg. Thats my preferred method. Injector is firing towards the port, rather than across it. It'd probably help low end, which is what I'm concerned with building power at. I'm trying for peak torque if the engine were N/A to occur at around 2750-3000rpm. Simply because I read in a book, either Turbochargers by Hugh Macinnes or Maximum Boost by Corky Bell that you should shoot for max N/A torque at where you want the turbos to spool. Makes sense to me.
Throttle body is either a '02 or '04 Cobra BBK throttle body, twin 62mm plates. BBK really needs better quality control. But I got it for $125 so I can't complain, it'll work.
I was using galvanized because I was lazy.. Needed some 16guage exhaust tubing, it was late so the only place that was open was Autozone, so I just used a couple of their 18" long 2.5" dia exhaust pipe. This is the first time I welded it in a closed garage, I only welded a little bit, just patching/finishing.

TheSilentChamber

If you have to weld galvenized drink a glass or two of milk before and after you weld it.

duplox

I drink plenty of milk, thats not a problem. The milk help prevent damage from the gasses produced?

TheSilentChamber

Its supposed to keep you from getting sick from the fumes.

TheSilentChamber

Dont foreget if you mount the injectors up high your going to have to deal with fuel evaporation so it may be a little harder to tune, but you'll have a silightly cooler intake charge due to the rapid evaperation causing a drop in temp.

duplox

Pics of injector placement, I still have 5 to go. I might move these so they're on the other side of the runners. That'd be a more direct shot into the port.



My throttle body, twin 62mm plates:

TheSilentChamber

Looks pretty good, theres going to be a massive bundle of fuel lines going though the middle of that thing. Whats that throttle body from? It looks familiar.

duplox

The throttle body is a Cobra twin 62mm unit, made by BBK.

Cbass

That's just something we tell the new guys so they don't think about what they're actually inhaling.

Seriously though, never weld any kind of coated steel without excellent ventilation. Zinc itself isn't all that bad, you usually just get really sick for a day or so, but there are other common coatings which can cause you major health problems.

__________________


Connor - Porsche Nazi since 2001, VW defiler since 2004
This here's a Fabrication forum!
My lugnut requires more torque than your LS1 makes.

Rod&Custom

I welded like 6 ft of it onto Project '49....bad idea. The metal was free, very good guage, and fit perfectly, and I mean perfectly fit the rust strap in the back, so we welded it, or I welded it, and felt like I was going to puke....never again....
This thread is awesome. I have never seen this done before, and will definitely be following it. Keep up the good work!

rosshatch89

injectors should never be mounted at more than a 20 degree angle to the runner of the manifold.... yours look to be quite steep but looks nice

duplox

You've read Maximum Boost. Do you know how shallow of an angle 20* is? The injector would be laying against the runner. There are plenty of OEM and aftermarket manifolds that put the injectors at nearly 90*, and I'd bet that on 80% of OEM manifolds, the injector is at an angle greater than 20*. I love that book, but I think Corky Bell is wrong on that one. In 99% of applications, well over a 20* angle will work.
This is what the injector bung would look like if it intersected at a 20* angle:

This is what they look like at a 45* angle: