racenut65

I have a 99 T&C Limited AWD 3.8 with 91,000 miles. Last night the SES light came on without any noticeable effects. Completed the trip and several hours later started for home. No SES now but the van dies while slowing for a turn or stop. Happened about 8 times in a 20 mile trip. Highway speeds were fine. One time it died, the wipers and radio also quit working but came back after another restart. It starts OK. Chugged a few times but always started back up. Double foot the gas and brake and the engine will not die but....not cool! Just had the headgasket and tranny replaced at 86,000 miles. Any thoughts, anyone???? Thanks!

brummo

WOW, sounds like my problem. I have a 99 Grand Caravan that has 110000 miles on it. My airbag light came on too, but took it in for the recall on the clock sensor. The dealer did a flush and fill on the transmission and changed the air filter. Since at the dealer, the van has quit on my wife several time while slowing down to turn or stop. Just had a tune-up no luck. I am going to the dealer to see if they may have bumped something during their service. Does your idle surge before it dies or does it spit and sputter?

brummo

sorry, clockspring not clock sensor

racenut65

Nothing sputtering. Idle just goes down and continues to drop until dead. Interesting develpment though...I filled up with gas after this started happening and the problem has started getting better. It's been three days now and the SES light is gone and the van has stopped stalling! Checks on this forum show that the fuel system is pressurized and a cracked filler neck or loose gascap can cause the symptoms we have. I took the van into AutoZone to have the codes read and there are no codes stored in the ECM. Problem solved????? I hope!

murph7727

Interesting that you brought that up racenut. I forgot that IS a common problem with pressurized systems. This probably did fix your problem, hopefully without spending money!

Space Cowboy

My 93 Chrysler T&C did that when I got it, especially in right-hand turns, or slowing into rt hand turns. The battery was about an inch too small (length & width) for the "box" (mount, frame, whatchamacallit) that it sits in. There is a small wire that hooks directly to the positive post - it has an in-line fuse holder just a foot away. The wire is just long enough to reach the battery, so when the battery shifted position it pulled on the wire.

The fuse holder is a plastic cylinder maybe 4 inches long, 3/4" thick, spliced into the small wire. The two ends click together (& apart) & the fuse is inside. As the weight of the battery shifted due to the turn & braking, it shifted one inch, which was just enough to pull the click connectors apart but not so much that you could tell!
Solution: Shove the battery into place & put something noncorrosive & nonconductive securely into the front & side gap between the battery and battery box. Something not too hard in case it falls out into engine compartment. Push the fuse holder ends together. No more problems. Zero cost. Space Cowboy

vandan

I have the exact problem that racenut65 has with my 99 Ply Grand Voy. I've had it into the shop twice now. The first time they hooked it up, ran codes and found nothing and the next day I had the same problem with it stalling as I left the freeway and came to a stop. The second shop visit they cleaned the carberator and I didn't have the problem for an entire month. I live in Minnesota and I thought that I was noticing the problem only when it got below 10 degrees. But the last couple of days its been 40 (heat wave - we're all confused) and this morning 24 degrees and the problem has started again. Can anyone explain what the following means: "fuel system is pressurized and a cracked filler neck or loose gascap can cause the symptoms". I have noticed that when I don't tighten the gas cap real hard I get the "check engine light". Can it really be that simply?

HiRez_L

Yes, your fuel injection system relies on a pressurized fuel system to push the gas into the injectors, there is actually an electric fuel pump down inside your gas tank that pressurizes the fuel and delivers it to the injectors. If you are very quiet, when your first get in the van, turn your key so it is in the on position but not cranked to the start position. You should hear a quiet hum that goes on for 7-10 seconds, this is your fuel system pressurizing. Theoretically, since all the pressurizing takes place in the line past the fuel tank, your cap should not affect it, but in reality, many people have found that having your cap on loose or having a crack in the filler neck lets out just enough pressure to light those alarms.

bestes

I had the same problem on my 98 Caravan. I changed the front Oxygen Sensor, and it fixed that problem.

neon_rt

It also could be that your area has gas that is 10% (or more) Ethanol and you are having Water/Alcohol related issues. Ethanol attracts moisture and makes starting and idling a problem for some engines, especially with cold weather. Combine that with a possible sticky Idle Solenoid and that may be causing some of your problem.

B33p3r

If while starting you also have to keep a foot into the gas pedal then I would check your IAC valve. The plunger could be getting dirty. It is responsible for supplying the air while in an idle condition(No pedal). Easy to remove and clean. 10 minutes. I flushed the plunger area with some fresh clean oil and I've been going for a year now with no problems. Seems to become a problem in colder weather. It'll be sitting on top of intake right where the air duct meets the intake. Also an IAC problem will not generate any codes.