a friend of mine recently got a great deal on a REV hard turbo kit brand spankin new and complete so he wanted to past the savings on to me
he can get two kits for the low price so im kinda interested
well the kit states 6 psi and i was wondering if it was alright to safely boost a b18C5 ????
any types of internals i should worry about causr i know that you can safely run stock internals " daily " on a JR supercharger on 6 lbs of boost
will the turbo make the same strains on my engine as the supercharger or is "boost is boost" :confused:
im thinking the turbo might have a greater negative effect since it is not constant boost like the supercharger rather it's low..than full boost spike
any help would be great guys :biggrin:
BTW anyone here with a FI ITR either supercharged or turbo???
how was the experince and wut kinda #'s am i looking at
any kind of unseen troubles or problems ??
hoping for 210-230 to the wheels and ~180-190 wtq
i this a realistic expectations or will it be slightly lower
thanks again an sorry for the long post :sunglasse

Personally I look at the topic of boosting the B18C5 as pointless. You have a great motor that was built for N/A purposes, and then you want to try and boost it? I don't like it, the motor has a high c/r for boost and you would really need to drop the c/r down to be safe. And you would want to change the camshafts to some with more lift and shorter duration rather than the medium high lift long duration cams that are in the B18C5. Now that you have changed these parts the only thing that you still have that resembles the B18C5 is the head. The better approach to this in my opinion is if you want boost buy a GSR or LS and build it and boost it don't reverse the B18C5's purpose of being a great N/A motor. :2cents:Also with the LS and GSR motors you have the option of having the head ported for boost as opposed to N/A there are two different porting techniques for the two different types of motors.

:iamwithst I quite agree with whtteg.

I agree that the C5 is a great motor for NA applications, but if you cant afford to go the NA route, and you can get FI for cheap, Id say go for it, and to answer your question, yes you can safely boost a B18C5 just make sure its tuned well, dont use the Fuel managment that comes with the kit, drop some money down and get a hondata and spend some time on a dyno. Ive seen stock motor type R's with a decent turbo set up and 10 psi putting out 315 WHP. and very reliably. like i said though, make sure you tune the hell out if it, as with any FI application.

Personally I look at the topic of boosting the B18C5 as pointless. You have a great motor that was built for N/A purposes, and then you want to try and boost it? I don't like it, the motor has a high c/r for boost and you would really need to drop the c/r down to be safe. And you would want to change the camshafts to some with more lift and shorter duration rather than the medium high lift long duration cams that are in the B18C5. Now that you have changed these parts the only thing that you still have that resembles the B18C5 is the head. The better approach to this in my opinion is if you want boost buy a GSR or LS and build it and boost it don't reverse the B18C5's purpose of being a great N/A motor. :2cents:Also with the LS and GSR motors you have the option of having the head ported for boost as opposed to N/A there are two different porting techniques for the two different types of motors.

:iagree: plus if you use a ls engine there a dime a dozen.-well close.
If you blow one, you can pick up a longblock for usually 200-400 bucks.

will the turbo make the same strains on my engine as the supercharger or is "boost is boost"

boost is boost, but there are huge difference in setups between the heat blower vs snail. with just a bare loss in CFM, the snail will make more peak hp at equal boost levels through the benefits of intercooling. the snail stresses the internals right up to where it begins to spool, then that stress increases even more with the spike in power. the heat blower stresses the internals equally throughout the powerband.

the higher the compression the lower boost is needed to achieve your goal.

hoping for 210-230 to the wheels and ~180-190 wtq

you aiming kinda low. you dont need high boost. just go with the precision sc50. :iceslolan you'll be happy.

any kind of unseen troubles or problems ??

get a hondata unit, an egt gauge, and AF wideband. try monitering possible problems before they occur.

Get a basemodel integra or gsr to turbocharge. Personally, i think whoever turbo's a type r is an idiot and doesnt deserve to drive one. Not necessarilly because of the compression, 10.6 Type r Vs 10 gsr, NOT THAT BIG OF A DIFFERENCE , they can be both safely turboed, this has been proven before. The type r is a revolutionary, limited edition car car, its perfectly engineered,and it's the best handeling front wheel drive car EVER, and also it will definely be a collector's item in about ten years. In ten years people will appreciate that you left your ITR in mint condition, will all original parts, and it will be valueable. The ITR reminds me in a way of the 90-93 Mr2 Turbo, which where i live, is considered a collector's item.

well talked to wuite a few people and thanks to all you guys for the great input/info
i've decided to leave the car NA and pass on the turbo route
like tano said, boosting an ITR may not neccsarily make you an "idiot" but it does defeat the purpose of the way the car was engineered to perform....

kinda over now, but u can safely boost a b18c5 and have it as a daily driver. at 6 psi, there wouldn't be a problem at all with detonation. i believe the rev hard kits are set at 8psi if im not mistaken.