Ok, I need some help, someone to lay it down easy for me. I have a 1998 integra GSR turbo. This is what i want to achieve:


350-400 whp
reliability
Ability to toggle low and high boost

this is what i have
1998 integra GSR
Greddy full turbo kit running 8 psi w/greddy front mount intercooler and greddy fmu.
Greddy Evo exhaust
Turboxs RFL blow off valve
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
330 cc injectors
ACT clutch (rated @ 408 lbs torque)
ACT streetlite flywheel
Blitz DC turbo timer
16x7 motegi mr7 rims w/toyo tires

Those are the performance mods I have. I want to be able to reliably get 350-400 whp. Right now im probably at 260 (as rated by greddy).

This is what i would like:
boost gauge in pillar
Boost controller below deck(or boost gauge/controller combo in gauge form)
Some wider tires w/17" rims
Ball bearing turbo upgrade(?)
HKS SSQV blow off valve ( i dont like the sound of the turboxs

My questions are:
What brand of rims and tires are wide enough to handle this kind of power??

What kind of engine work would I have to do to make it bullet proof

Can most of this engine work be done by me? ( i installed the turbo flawlessly)

If not, where can I go to get it done reliably?

Do I need to upgrade my FMU or my FMI?

I need someone to "hold my hand" through this, im having a hard time finding reliable information in my pursuit of power. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh one more thing, where should the blow off valve be installed? I ran the kit for about a hundred miles while awaiting my intercooler, so i installed the blow off valve on the pipe that leads up to the intake manifold. I think I did it right, because the car still hauls ass but if there is a more efficient way to do it, ill do it. Help!

Argh, I wrote a whole long post but my computer froze and I lost it, this pisses me off, so now you get the short version.

17's will give you less traction than 16's. 16's give you less traction than 15's. If you want the best chance of hooking up run some 15's and some sticky tires. Width in a street tire makes almost ZERO difference in straight line traction.

For a 400 WHP build a lot of people recommend sleeves, but they really arn't necisary. Stock honda sleeves are actually very strong, and the reason you see people breaking them at 300, 350 WHP is because they're running an FMU or a VAFC that does not control timing, they detonate like a bitch once they get off the dyno and onto the street, and they blame stock honda sleeves. Here's what I would do if I were building a daily driver to make in the neighbourhood of 400 WHP.

Eagle connecting rods
ARP head studs
Balance the rotating assembly
New water pump, oil pump
Skunk2 springs, ITR retainers
Edelbrock VictorX intake manifold
Hondata S200 with boost
880CC injectors
Neukin Turbo Manifold (www.neukin.com)
Tial 38MM wastegate
PTE GT35E
3" Downpipe, 3" Kteller.com weld up kit, 16" resonator, ES oval muffler


To make 400 WHP and have your car run great, you need to ditch the greddy blue box all together, so don't worry about it.

As for the bulding the motor, I would ship the motor to the guys at Laskey Racing in Irvine, they do top notch work. For tuning Dyno Spot Racing in San Jose is about an hours drive, and they are very, very good with Hondata.

For a ball bearing turbo, don't worry about it. They arn't worth a huge decrease in spool times, but they do cost a shit load of money when the time comes to rebuild it.

you want a bulletproof bottom end.

your block sleeved and bored to 83mm because 84mm is recommended max so if you melt a pistons you have a couple more tries with an 83mm bore.

eagle crank because its stronger then stock
pauter rods because they are the best rods you can get
cp pistons because they are the best pistons you can get

for the head

have it port polished, lots of different companies, portflow, alaniz, jg, DHR, etc theres alot more.
full ferrea valvetrain.
some kind of stage 2 turbo cams
jg victor x intake mani
hondata intake mani gasket
bored tb, i would say to 70mm. again lots of different companies make them.

and of course the a full race turbo kit.

earl at laskey racing builds motors, for the bottom end i told you about would cost somewhere around $4500, if you want anyone to build your motor i wouldnt recommend anyone else. guarentee the best job

head for around $2500 but idk if earl builds heads, my cost is just for parts only for the head

for tires either run drag radials, but they will wear down fast, or falken azenis sp? which are probably hte stickiest street tire. yeah 15" rims would be good but not bigger

now hte bottom end i just told you about will be good for around 800whp, maybe more. its a bullet proof bottom end, but i dont think youll need a bottom end that strong for only 400whp.

i would really look into have earl build your block. ill see if i can find his email

you want a bulletproof bottom end.

your block sleeved and bored to 83mm because 84mm is recommended max so if you melt a pistons you have a couple more tries with an 83mm bore.

There's a difference between strong and reliable and hellaciously overkill. For 350-400 daily he does not need sleeves, that thousand dollars could be much better spent elsewhere. Even if he cranks up the boost, there are SEVERAL people running 500+ WHP on stock sleeves. Ballard went 10.19 @ 146 @ 2300 pounds on STOCK SLEEVES. DRT's old coupe went low 10's @ 145 and made 550 to the ground on STOCK SLEEVES. Geoff at full race made over 500 WHP on stock sleeves for quite a while. Several guys from InlinePro have made over 500 on stock sleeves. Steve at Evolution Autosports made 540 WHP on stock sleeves. He does not need to sleeve it just to have a strong and reliable motor for 350-400 WHP, period.

eagle crank because its stronger then stock
pauter rods because they are the best rods you can get
cp pistons because they are the best pistons you can get

This makes no sense whatsoever. Stock honda cranks have made well over 700 WHP. They're forged, they're high quality, they work. Why throw 900 dollars in the garbage for something that you do not need, and that will give you no additional strength? You can make a case for sleeving, some people just feel more comfortable with some aftermarket sleeves in the motor, but the stock crank is 100% proven to take whatever you are going to throw at it. For rods, why spend 425 bucks more for a set of pauters, when Eagle's have been taken to 600+ WHP as well?

for the head

have it port polished, lots of different companies, portflow, alaniz, jg, DHR, etc theres alot more.
full ferrea valvetrain.
some kind of stage 2 turbo cams
jg victor x intake mani
hondata intake mani gasket
bored tb, i would say to 70mm. again lots of different companies make them.

He can port it, doesn't need to though. Plenty of people making over 400 on stock ports. Valvetrain is questionable, Ti retainers get soft after a while and arn't the best choice for the street, new springs and stock ITR retainers are good to atleast 9000 RPM's and I doubt he's going to turn more than that. Turbo cams are basically a waste of money unless you buy a set of Blox cams, which are actually reasonably priced. Crower's turbo cams are BARELY different than GSR cams, 650 bucks for MAYBE 10 horsepower? No thanks.

and of course the a full race turbo kit.

If he already has the greddy intercooler, he doesn't need to spend big $$$ on the entire full-race kit. He could spend the money on the manifold, but I personally found it hard to justify 1000 bucks for a full-race manifold when you can pick up a neukin manifold (which performs just as well, they both have merge collectors, they're both stainless) for 600 bucks. Shit, you can get a blox log manifold and a 3" AC downpipe for less than 600 bucks, even that will have no trouble making 400 WHP.

earl at laskey racing builds motors, for the bottom end i told you about would cost somewhere around $4500, if you want anyone to build your motor i wouldnt recommend anyone else. guarentee the best job

head for around $2500 but idk if earl builds heads, my cost is just for parts only for the head

for tires either run drag radials, but they will wear down fast, or falken azenis sp? which are probably hte stickiest street tire. yeah 15" rims would be good but not bigger

Azenis are very sticky tires, but they're meant for a road course, so they have very stiff sidewalls. Past 300 WHP it's pretty easy to rip through them like they're nothing. For a daily driver I found you don't gain that much traction running Azenis over a cheaper tire (I personally run Kumho Ecsta Supra 712's) but with a tire that isn't as hardcore you get a lot more tread life, a lot less road noise than the Azenis, plus it isn't a nightmare to drive it in the rain. If it's only going to be a weekend car I would run BFG's, you'll only get about 3500 miles out of them on the street, so they arn't my first choice for a daily driver.

hey, he said he wanted bulletproof. the motor i described will not blow at all and will handle pretty much as much power as you can throw at it.

about the stock crank, yeah your right sorry my bad i was thinking about my motor when i was rigthing this all down and my stock motor had rod knock so i needed to replace the crank and was unalbe to find a stock crank so eagle.

but for his thing of being bulletproof, well stock sleeves can handle but it needs to be tuned good therefore not making it bulletproof which is why i mentioned resleeving because you wont have to worry about cracking stock sleeves.

for the rods, even earl says himself that eagle rods are good for aobut 500whp and that pauter rods are better, again i only mentioned this because he said he wanted a bulletproof engine. yeah eagle will work with 400hp but will make his motor bulletproof with pauters.

yup again for the head i was thinking about my ls motor. dont need porting and for cams type r cams will work good.

for the turbo parts, will the greddy intercooler flow enough ? will his turbo be big enough ? yeah the full manifold isnt needed but gives quicker spooling times.

you critzise everything i said but nothing i said is wrong except for the crank, its just if your willing to spend the money on it. he said he wanted bulletproof, i gave him bulletproof. usually the definition of bulletproof is building something thats indestructable, now if you want something indestructable, do you run eagle rods or pauter rods for example ? do you sleeve the motor or leave stock sleeves ? again sleeving the motor makes it bulletproof as oppose to stock sleeves where it needs to be tuned good and if detonate it will crack the sleeves. im just going by what he said, he didnt say how much money he had to spend so im not thinking $$ im thinking whats the best.

U mean you want this:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_img_a/361622_97_full.jpg

thats my gsr motor @ 15 psi boost.

81.5 mm bore
550 cc rc injectors
aem fpr
pistons
eagle rods
itr dual valve springs
ctr cams
equal lenght mani
t3/t4 turbo
2.5" down pipe
3" exhaust
tial wastegate
blitz blow off
2.5" charge piping
egay fmic
Apex-i Power Fc eng management

sigh. if you want a bulletproof engien you need to tune it! im a little out of my element here on hondas. i have a gsx eclipse but the physics are still the same. what kind of gerret turbo comes in the kit you have? is it rated for 40lb's airflow?? do you have a link for the compressor map?

your injectors are absolutly wayyyy to small for what you want to do, and you over running your stock fpr with the 255lp fuel pump!! your probably running unbelevably rich. i didnt see a fuel computer in your mod list. do you have one?
do you have any logging software?

my suggestion if you want to run 350+ whp... get 660's, afpr w/return, safc2, pocketlogger. i think you have a preatty strong list of supporting mods. you just need to get your air/flow to match your fuel supply.

feel free to post that compressor map.

If you haven't replaced your stock connecting rods you should seriously look into the best thing to come along in a long time, XRodz at www.xrodz.com They are top notch, I used to be a formula atlantic crew chief and can tell you first hand without a strong bottom end you basically will end up with an expensive "short fuse" motor. Balance and power go hand in hand and these rods are the lightest, strongest, best balanced rods available. Hands down.


Ok, I need some help, someone to lay it down easy for me. I have a 1998 integra GSR turbo. This is what i want to achieve:


350-400 whp
reliability
Ability to toggle low and high boost

this is what i have
1998 integra GSR
Greddy full turbo kit running 8 psi w/greddy front mount intercooler and greddy fmu.
Greddy Evo exhaust
Turboxs RFL blow off valve
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
330 cc injectors
ACT clutch (rated @ 408 lbs torque)
ACT streetlite flywheel
Blitz DC turbo timer
16x7 motegi mr7 rims w/toyo tires

Those are the performance mods I have. I want to be able to reliably get 350-400 whp. Right now im probably at 260 (as rated by greddy).

This is what i would like:
boost gauge in pillar
Boost controller below deck(or boost gauge/controller combo in gauge form)
Some wider tires w/17" rims
Ball bearing turbo upgrade(?)
HKS SSQV blow off valve ( i dont like the sound of the turboxs

My questions are:
What brand of rims and tires are wide enough to handle this kind of power??

What kind of engine work would I have to do to make it bullet proof

Can most of this engine work be done by me? ( i installed the turbo flawlessly)

If not, where can I go to get it done reliably?

Do I need to upgrade my FMU or my FMI?

I need someone to "hold my hand" through this, im having a hard time finding reliable information in my pursuit of power. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh one more thing, where should the blow off valve be installed? I ran the kit for about a hundred miles while awaiting my intercooler, so i installed the blow off valve on the pipe that leads up to the intake manifold. I think I did it right, because the car still hauls ass but if there is a more efficient way to do it, ill do it. Help!

thats great help and all but you sound like your pushing shit thats a no no here sir.

Ace, I'm not "pushing" anything. By the way you spell it sounds like you might be. Pull your sleeves down and take your moms car back.

Ace, I'm not "pushing" anything. By the way you spell it sounds like you might be. Pull your sleeves down and take your moms car back.
ok i try to be nice but nooooo :disappoin

a little fuckrag like you has to not take some nice advice and has to show hes E-cred well time to make you ever so sorry.

Your a fucking tool simply put why dont you get your cock outta your hand and and grow the fuck up?

My moms car well it was your moms car till i raped and kill that whore that gave birth to the first failed abortion.

You can attempt a rebuttle but you'll lose just like in everyother endaver you've taken on.

Ass or is that Ace (can tell your a loser by your name). You're not exactly the sharpest knife in the drawer are you? Learn to spell, put down the bong and back away from the computer before you hurt yourself. Your moms calling (probably looking for her keys). Grow a set and grow up.

this is why i stoped coming on honda fourms.